Hello, i have several ST2000LM003 drives that took a power surge and blew what i assume is a diode. I successfully swapped the bios chip on a donor PCB and got one drive working again, but i am having an issue finding the "exact" revision of PCB to replace the others. The revision number on the boards match, but there is a sticker on the back that dos not match. Vendors keep telling me the sticker doesn't matter, but my drives wont spin up unless the stickers match. Is there a way around this? Does anyone know if the sticker matters or if i'm just missing a step to make them work? Thanks!

Maybe the preamp has blown in the drives that don’t spin up?

Check terminal output.

Also, can we see the whole of the PCB’s so we can read the chip p/n’s?

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They do spin up if i use a PCB with the 5C sticker on it. Both boards are stamped with "100731207 REV A". Here are the pics you requested. Thanks so much for the help!

There is no ROM chip on the 6C PCB?

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Correct, i removed it in preparation for swapping the drives original chip on to it. Its also missing the diode that blew because i tried repairing the original board with it after the drives wouldnt spin up with the new board. I have 3 more new boards (and 3 drives that need them) that are untouched yet. Hoping to figure out how to make them work.

Afraid Rom chip could be die when soldering operation
Or , all legs not connected when desoldering. Flux help it. Or wrong direction . Careful to dot on rom chip.

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That was a speedy edit. could have been embarrassing.....

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HDD, SSD, Flash and RAID Data Recovery
Founder of The Data Recovery Professionals Group

The damaged component is either a zero-ohm resistor or an smt fuse. It burned up because the 5V TVS diode ("KFT") was overvolted. Assuming there is no other damage, the solution is to remove the diode (it will be shorted) and replace the resistor with a wire link, or a blob of solder, or an smt fuse (2 amps). If you wish to replace the diode, then an SD05-7 or similar should be OK.

TVS Diode FAQ:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=86

SD05-7, Diodes Inc, marking ZA, 5V, 350W, UNI-DIRECTIONAL SURFACE MOUNT TVS:
http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds31594.pdf

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

It seems awfully coincidental that every 6C board i have tried (4 of them) would have failed but the 5C boards worked fine. I'll give it another shot. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

Make sure that the board is receiving the correct supply voltage.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

I tried to replace the diode several times, but the short vaporized one of the leads and there wasn't enough left for the solder to stick to. I figured it was the TVS though. I blew 4 drives out with blindly hooked a molex connector to an enclosure in the wrong orientation. It never occurred to me that the enclosure would have allowed something like that to happen, but it did. Thanks for the info!

My language problem. Misunderstood sometimes

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Sexy Womans from your town

My BIOS chip is secure and in the right orientation, i still cannot get a drive to spin up with the 6C rev of the board. Is it worth trying to swap the chips highlighted in my first post? Or is there more to the differences than that? Thanks!

I have marked the components for you. The "inductor" may in some cases be a fuse or zero-ohm resistor.

The inductor must be replaced, or it can be bridged. The diode must be removed, but it need not be replaced if suitable overvoltage precautions are taken.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Thanks. Sorry for the long delay, work gets busy and home projects get sidelined. So back to my original question, is there a way to make these "6C" stickered boards work with my drives? I have tried to repair the blown "5C" stickered boards but the leads for the inductor were vaporized when it blew and i cant solder anything onto it. Am i running into a BIOS version issue with the replacement boards maybe? I would love to get the data on the drives, but at this point i would just settle for a working drive i can add back to my array. Thanks!

Remove the shorted 5V TVS diode and then solder a wire link from the +5V SATA power pins to the striped end of the diode or the capacitor below it.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

So its unlikely that the other board would work at all?