PCB 100760718 REV. C Help

[polykyle]

Hello, just need some help with a PCB board I am attempting to fix.

I have a 100760718 REV. C pcb that is from a student's hard drive where I work (Seagate ST1000LM025 / HN-M101ABB/ESA). The pcb usb 3.0 micro port was completely busted and now I had attempted at a donor pcb 100720903 03 and I have swapped the firmware chip but the drive doesn't spin at all. The main chip above firmware chip does get warm when I attempted to power the hard drive. I was hoping for assistance if possible on some further steps others with more experience would take.

Thank you very much.

pcb 100720903

pcb 100760718

[fzabkar]

Can you show us a terminal log?

How to connect a terminal adaptor on a Samsung drive ?
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=116&t=189

FWIW, the donor has twice as much RAM as the patient. I don't know if this could be a problem (I suspect not).

[rogfanther]

That usb board is not difficult to repair. That could be a way to solve the problem.

Also, inspect again the soldering on the flash chip. That pin on the left seems shorted to its neighbour.

[polykyle]

Can you show us a terminal log?

How to connect a terminal adaptor on a Samsung drive ?
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=116&t=189

FWIW, the donor has twice as much RAM as the patient. I don't know if this could be a problem (I suspect not).

Thank you fzabkar, what connection tool would you use to pull terminal log? I'll be honest I've never done it but we have an assortment of adapters and can always purchase what is required to get you the right information. Thank you.

[polykyle]

That usb board is not difficult to repair. That could be a way to solve the problem.

Also, inspect again the soldering on the flash chip. That pin on the left seems shorted to its neighbour.

Thank you rogfanther, I had initially looked for the correct usb micro 3.0 connector but we had nothing locally available. I did have a donor board from a similar hdd available that is the pictured sata pcb. If you have any recommended sites to purchase the usb plug I can try that as well. Also, I will take a look at the solder on the chip again. Is it safe to take the chip on and off a few times? I don't want to fry it and this specific fix is new to me so I figured I'd ask the pros. Thank you.

[rogfanther]

I think you can find it from Digkey or Mouser. Even ebay or Ali Express, if you prefer.

Also, you could solder an usb cable directly to the corresponding positions, as it is just for recovery.

As for the chip, try to avoid heating it too much or too much times. Or, at least, make a backup of it before soldering it, just in case it is damaged in the process.

[data-medics]

I think you can find it from Digkey or Mouser. Even ebay or Ali Express, if you prefer.

Also, you could solder an usb cable directly to the corresponding positions, as it is just for recovery.

As for the chip, try to avoid heating it too much or too much times. Or, at least, make a backup of it before soldering it, just in case it is damaged in the process.

You obviously didn't look closely at that picture (or you have no experience doing PCB repairs). The pads where the USB header solders on are ripped out of the PCB. I'm not saying it'd be impossible to solder onto that, I've done worse, but it's not going to be a quick reflow. It will require some micro soldering skills for sure.

[rogfanther]

I think you can find it from Digkey or Mouser. Even ebay or Ali Express, if you prefer.

Also, you could solder an usb cable directly to the corresponding positions, as it is just for recovery.

As for the chip, try to avoid heating it too much or too much times. Or, at least, make a backup of it before soldering it, just in case it is damaged in the process.

You obviously didn't look closely at that picture (or you have no experience doing PCB repairs). The pads where the USB header solders on are ripped out of the PCB. I'm not saying it'd be impossible to solder onto that, I've done worse, but it's not going to be a quick reflow. It will require some micro soldering skills for sure.

Yes, I did look at it closely, and also I do have experience doing pcb repairs.

Not necessary pads to connect a temporary connector to the board. It won´t be beautiful ( for some values of beautiful ) but will work. Even a more permanent fix could be done, but that is more for in-house use, not for a customer.

And i consider resoldering the connector part, even if only the USB 2.0 part, easier to someone than moving the flash chip and risking damage to it. Also, as I said, even an usb cable could be soldered to the board just for recovery. Or a jig with pogo pins could be devised. All depends on what the person has on hand.

[dick]

I think you can find it from Digkey or Mouser. Even ebay or Ali Express, if you prefer.

Also, you could solder an usb cable directly to the corresponding positions, as it is just for recovery.

As for the chip, try to avoid heating it too much or too much times. Or, at least, make a backup of it before soldering it, just in case it is damaged in the process.

You obviously didn't look closely at that picture (or you have no experience doing PCB repairs). The pads where the USB header solders on are ripped out of the PCB. I'm not saying it'd be impossible to solder onto that, I've done worse, but it's not going to be a quick reflow. It will require some micro soldering skills for sure.

Agreed. Though I am sure the word 'repair' in this case means to get to the data which for any competent engineer would be an easy task.

[fzabkar]

@polykyle, can you tell us the markings on the two "ROM" chips? I have a suspicion that they may be powered from different voltages.

Notice the differences in the SDRAM specs:

M14D128168A-2.5B, ESMT, DDR II SDRAM, 128Mbit, 2M x 16 Bit x 4 Banks, 1.8V, 400MHz:
http://www.esmt.com.tw/DB/manager/upload/M14D128168A(2M).pdf

W9464G6KH-5, Winbond, DDR SDRAM, 64Mbit, 1M × 4 banks × 16 bits, 2.5V, 200MHz:
https://www.winbond.com/resource-files/da00-w9464g6khb1.pdf

[rogfanther]

I think you can find it from Digkey or Mouser. Even ebay or Ali Express, if you prefer.

Also, you could solder an usb cable directly to the corresponding positions, as it is just for recovery.

As for the chip, try to avoid heating it too much or too much times. Or, at least, make a backup of it before soldering it, just in case it is damaged in the process.

You obviously didn't look closely at that picture (or you have no experience doing PCB repairs). The pads where the USB header solders on are ripped out of the PCB. I'm not saying it'd be impossible to solder onto that, I've done worse, but it's not going to be a quick reflow. It will require some micro soldering skills for sure.

Agreed. Though I am sure the word 'repair' in this case means to get to the data which for any competent engineer would be an easy task.

Well, I still disagree. But to placate the audience, let´s then say it is easier to "cobble something together " to connect that board to usb than to swap the bios chip ( that could now be fried, pending investigation of @fzakar´s observation.

[polykyle]

@polykyle, can you tell us the markings on the two "ROM" chips? I have a suspicion that they may be powered from different voltages.

Notice the differences in the SDRAM specs:

M14D128168A-2.5B, ESMT, DDR II SDRAM, 128Mbit, 2M x 16 Bit x 4 Banks, 1.8V, 400MHz:
http://www.esmt.com.tw/DB/manager/upload/M14D128168A(2M).pdf

W9464G6KH-5, Winbond, DDR SDRAM, 64Mbit, 1M × 4 banks × 16 bits, 2.5V, 200MHz:
https://www.winbond.com/resource-files/da00-w9464g6khb1.pdf

Below M14D128168A is:
ASM1 -2.5B
P330E16V 401

Below W9464G6KH-5 is:
1540P
65192C700ZX

Thank you again for everyone's help.

[polykyle]

I think you can find it from Digkey or Mouser. Even ebay or Ali Express, if you prefer.

Also, you could solder an usb cable directly to the corresponding positions, as it is just for recovery.

As for the chip, try to avoid heating it too much or too much times. Or, at least, make a backup of it before soldering it, just in case it is damaged in the process.

You obviously didn't look closely at that picture (or you have no experience doing PCB repairs). The pads where the USB header solders on are ripped out of the PCB. I'm not saying it'd be impossible to solder onto that, I've done worse, but it's not going to be a quick reflow. It will require some micro soldering skills for sure.

Agreed. Though I am sure the word 'repair' in this case means to get to the data which for any competent engineer would be an easy task.

Well, I still disagree. But to placate the audience, let´s then say it is easier to "cobble something together " to connect that board to usb than to swap the bios chip ( that could now be fried, pending investigation of @fzakar´s observation.

The student has purchased another hard drive as of now, so I am looking to just recover what I can from the old drive. I can move the chip back to the original PCB but I wanted to wait for Fza's response first. Thank you everyone.

[fzabkar]

Below M14D128168A is:

Below W9464G6KH-5 is:

I can see those markings. I need to know the markings on the 8-pin chips that you worked on. I'm wondering whether the SATA board (donor) uses a 1.8V serial flash memory, in which case your 2.5V (? patient) flash memory may not work on the donor PCB (no damage, though).

[polykyle]

Below M14D128168A is:

Below W9464G6KH-5 is:

I can see those markings. I need to know the markings on the 8-pin chips that you worked on. I'm wondering whether the SATA board (donor) uses a 1.8V serial flash memory, in which case your 2.5V (? patient) flash memory may not work on the donor PCB (no damage, though).

Ah I see, my apologies.

ROM chip from original PCB:
25X40CL05
1542
6530
2C000ZS

Donor ROM chip:
25X40CL 1(or I)G
1350
6335
OU6004(or Z it's scuffed)S

Thank you Fzabkar.

[fzabkar]

Both chips have a voltage rating of 2.3V - 3.6V, so that's not a problem. The 128Mbit SDRAM must be using its own 1.8V supply. Sorry for the distraction.