Hello, I'm new here. I accidentally shorted my PC HARD DISK. It accidentally touched a metal surface and burned a capacitor on the logic board.
It is no more detecting and also not spinning.

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I checked the board for any short circuit near the OA56511 IC ( may be a voltage regulator) and the only thing shorted is that the burned capacitor. I think there may be two possible damages either the IC OA56511 itself or both the IC & CAP, I may be wrong on this(I am not a computer professional). Also, I checked the 12v and the 5v supply and they are not shorted.

It will be very helpful if someone can provide any information and guidance on troubleshooting and fixing the logic board.

Maybe the easy way is to buy a replacement PCB compatible with yours and move the NVRam from the damaged PCB to the new donor one ....

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very likely that capacitor is shorted due to damaged VCM (IC OA56511).
I would change the pcb, because everytime i see shorts components near VCM i was never able to fix just by replacing those components, the reason was always due to faulty VCM.
You might try to pull off the capacitor, if you still see short on its pads then you know that vcm is shorted, if you don't see short once you remove the capacitor then you could solder new capacitor (but in my opinion it will notwork).

+1

I was NEVER able to "fix" Hitachi/HGST PCBs ... Once they are shorted even if some fuse does blow and you bridge it the PCB will burn on another place ...

Do buy a replacement PCB instead and move ROM chip over.

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In this particular case Hitachi uses the same stupid design philosophy as WD, ie the zero-ohm resistors are in the wrong place.

Catastrophic failures in Western Digital PCBs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1119

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@fzabkar :
Could you please help me identify the components on my unresponsive HGST HDD's PCB ? I've had some hints regarding software checks (from “Spildit”), which so far were inconclusive, and one member suggested a list of hardware checks but it was rather sketchy so I'm not sure exactly how to proceed, and what to do next...

What i was saying was if you use some tool that can show the register status of the drive like MHDD, Victoria, etc or if you have any comercial firmware tool like PC-3000, MRT, HRT, etc and if you plug PCB only on ANY IBM BASED drive (arch M24, ARM based, etc) you should see this IF THE PCB IS STILL WORKING :

- Drive goes to BSY for a little while :



- Drive do report Drive Seek Complete and Readyness (Drive Ready) :



- From here you can issue the "universal" "Super ON" to gain access to NVRam for M24 arch drives or the Super On for ARM drives and then read RAM or read NVRam or whatever. This does work with PCB ONLY as explained !!!! Example on M24 arch :





As you can see i did dump NVRam with HRT and VSCs. If you don't have full HRT, HRT_DEMO + VSCs or any other firmware tool and you don't know how to dump NVRam or access RAM/ROM it doesn't matter, JUST USE MHDD, VICTORIA ETC AND MAKE SURE DRIVE GOES TO BSY AND THEN DRDY/DSC !!!!

On IBM/Hitachi/HGST (IBM NATIVE) drives with DAMAGED PCB on all cases that i did have so far there are NO ATA INTERFACE meaning normaly a fuse will blow or whatever and the PCB will NOT REPLY BY SATA/IDE meaning that with your firmware tool or MHDD, VICTORIA you will NOT SEE BSY and DRDY/DSC . You will only see exactly the same as if you were selecting a channel without drive ! There will be no register status as the PCB will be dead and it will be exactly like not plugging any drive at all. Depending on the system you might see all register status lit, error, abort, etc ..... i will display exactly as it would without any drive so no drdy and dsc.

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If you see something like this :



Or like this :



PCB is toasted and need to be repaired/replaced.

For the record i was NEVER able to repair a single IBM/HITACHI/HGST PCB so replacing with compatible PCB + moving ROM (OR ROM + NVRAM) should do the trick.

If PCB reports DRDY+DSC and if you can read NVRam most likely the "problem" is elsewhere .... Check NVRam and if it's OK and if ROM is ok as well most likely PRE-AMP (inside drive) is gone ...

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Saw these new replies only today... Don't want to “hijack” this thread in case the OP comes back, so I'll reply on the relevant one.