I have a WD 2060-771945-002 REV A board that I believe was overvolted. My USB-SATA interface just passes through the 12V to the drive and generates 5V. The TD1482 chip on that (interface) board cooked... obviously cooked. I know the (12) supply voltage was 13.2 volts and was being sent to the TD1482 and the WD PCB on the 12 rail. 5V rail is at 0V now. I tested on my WD board:

R60 = 0 ohms
R43 = open
D3 = shorted(0) both directions
D4 = Diode mode-550 both directions|200K mode-161 one direction, 143 settled the opposite.

Any chance of a preamp failure or I'm missing anything? I am looking into DR to do a board swap but if they have to really dig into the HDD, I'm writing it off.
If there isn't a high likelihood of preamp failure, I can replace/repair components on the PCB. I just don't feel comfortable enough with my hot air station to do a BIOS swap. Also I don't want the "we got to fix your screw up" charge. So it's go for broke or leave it alone.

Thanks!

What is the closest big city to you in the US?
Some pictures would help a lot.

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Hard Disk Drive, SSD, USB Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

Yes the preamp maybe affected by the power surge. As you have 'obviously cooked' a chip, its not going to be DIY repairable if you are afraid of moving a ROM chip. You can pick-up a PCB on eBay for about $20 and use the 'go for broke' and swap the ROM chip. That way you will know.

As labtech says we can recommend if you want professional advice and recover at a reasonable cost, but I get the feeling you don't want that?

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HDD, SSD, Flash and RAID Data Recovery
Founder of The Data Recovery Professionals Group

Remove D3 and flow a blob of solder over R43. Then test the PCB on its own. Hopefully that's the only problem.

You can test for shorts at the preamp by measuring the resistance between ground and each of pins 1 and 3 at the HDA connector J1. I think there is a very good chance that the preamp will be OK, and that the original HDD PCB is salvageable.

Hdd-parts.com is one PCB supplier that includes a free ROM transfer should you need to go that way.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Pictures after a good night's rest. (Until then https://www.hddzone.com/2060_771945_002_wd_pcb_repair.html the top two-are good images from search. I am in metro Atlanta.
I've got one maybe preamp bad and one maybe not. I will test the resistance tomorrow morning (for the USA folks, tonight for the Aussie).
I would consider myself an intermediate with microelectronics. I can solder through hole and bodge wires with my eyes closed. SMD is definitely my weak link and considering that if that BIOS chip gets overheated and fries, easy data access is out the window (as far as I know)... That's what makes me nervous. I haven't really learned my temps for SMD rework. If it were something I could just grab a fresh chip from the tube, it would have been done 5 minutes ago.
The data is not mission critical but had some man hours on it. It can be recreated on a virgin drive but a pain in the rear to do so. So I would like to recover it, very much so, but not essential. I would rather pay a few dollars (but not exorbitant) more for a professional chance at recovery than a maybe DIY.

I was looking into Outsource Data Recovery and their $60 repair service but if anyone has better advice, I will entertain anything.

One thing I failed to mention before, all copper pads on my board have some discoloration to them, a purpleish blue. I heard both this can be a red flag and not. There are no other signs on the PCB that something would be wrong.
I may be wrong, but I believe something failed (maybe the diode) on the HDD PCB from the overvolt which caused a short(D3? or R43?) which caused that 1482 IC to overload which fried itself and killed the voltage it was producing.

As far as suggesting a professional, I would love if I could try fzabkar's trick first and if it fails then sent off without additional fees. If it works, get a new TVS ASAP.

Fzabkar's information is good advice.
$60 repair at Outsource is fine (Ohio), same service like hdd-parts (Canada).
In the Atlanta area, two good data recovery companies are Data Savers LLC and Blizzard Data Recovery. Their techs are reputable here on the forum.

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Hard Disk Drive, SSD, USB Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

I did take a look at Blizzard and Data savers, and unfortunately they are a bit distant as I am more on the south side (the much more rural yet still metro) Atlanta. For PCB work they seemed a bit high compared to other players. High enough to turn me away to DIY honestly.

HDD parts and Outsource is definitely more my tune, I just don't want to try to repair it and then get charged a "round 2" surcharge considering I would be paying them to put a new PCB (BIOS) in thus my work is mute at that point.
I think I need to mention, $100 is really my limit before I hit it with a sledgehammer. Maybe $150 if it almost guarantees it's back in my hand working without going into a clean room.(I understand the clean room prices and again as it's data with low importance, it'll be sledgehammer before clean room)

Those services for ~$60 are PCB repair/replacement only.
The data recovery companies provide full data recovery service, hence the price difference.

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Hard Disk Drive, SSD, USB Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

I figured that with the prices, I just don't want any data recovery services, again as I stated before my only concern is getting the bios swapped to a new board. The data on the drive is so insignificant that I'm not willing to pay for data recovery services. Do you know if they offer just a bios swap?

So I have tested those pins, pin 1 has higher than 20M and pin 3 has 148 stabilized on the 200k setting. Does this indicate possible healthy preamps?

The preamp isn't shorted, assuming you have used a proper ground reference. Good luck.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

I used several ground reference points. Mainly screws going through the case but several different spots with the same result. So it sounds like the preamp might be alright? I'm really tempted to try that mod tomorrow and go from there.

I did the diode remove/resistor bridge mod. I have 4.97v on the 5v rail and 12.1v on the 12v rail measured at the diodes. I measured J1 between pin 1(+) and 3(-), got 4.55 volts. Should I go forth and connect board to drive? Or is there any other tests I can do the double check?

Measure the voltages between ground and the inductors (L3, L5, L8, L1, etc)) adjacent to the motor controller chip.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Tested 6 inductors
L1-0.94v
L3-0 volts (double checked both sides)
L5-1.81
L6-1.22
L8-2.5v
L9-4.95

Hopefully they are what they should be, though L3 voltage seems fishy.

Also got 5-6v on every J6 pin. After several seconds it dropped to 0. I'm guessing it was trying to spin the drive, then gave up? After power cycling, the voltages came back.

Looks good. Good luck.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Installed The board with good luck. The hard drive is alive! I got any remotely useful data off of it. Which wasn't even 1% of the drive. If the hard drive dies tomorrow I couldn't care less. I'll use it as a nondependent backup drive.
Clarifying, without the TVS on the 5 volt rail, any power surge on that rail could cook chips as there's nothing else to sacrifice itself?
And IIRC from other threads, This drive needs to be treated as a here today, gone tomorrow for the rest of its life?
Would one suggest getting a donor board to transplant a new TVS and resistor to my board to improve reliability and decreases chances of full premature failure?

I would spend my money on a new drive and keep the current one as a backup. A TVS diode costs $1, so that's cheap insurance.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.