Western Digital - WD30EZRZ - Dead Drive - Voltage Spike

[walkngdude]

Hi
We have a Western Digital Blue 3TB
Model: WD30EZRZ
Control Board: 2060-800055-001 REVP1

WE were working in the case and had an exposed live 12 volt molex male connector exposed that we didn't see. When it wouldn't start we tried repeatedly starting the system probably shorting that rail over and over until we found it.

Now we have a HDD that won't spin up. No sound, no vibration. Nothing.

We have read through some of the tutorials here (thank you), have a Fluke meter and some experience (very little really) with electronics. Oh and an identical drive that works

All of the diodes looked cool but there are two little blue components marked "T". One reads 0 ohms and the other is open. On the working board they are both closed (0 ohms).

So I assume I need to close the circuit of the open "T" component to temp up this board long enough to recover the critical Minecraft server.

Our question is:
1) Can we just solder a very fine strand from some #18 AWG wire across it?
2) Do we need to find a replacement?
3) Can we find a replacement and fix it permanently?
4) Or something else?

Thanks
Marc

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[fzabkar]

The drive appears to have sustained an overvoltage on its 5V input. In such cases you need to be concerned about the preamp. If I were working on this PCB, I would test the onboard power supplies for shorts to ground, and shorts between Vin (5V) and Vout. I would also use a 2A picofuse or smt fuse in place of "T2", or a current limited external supply.

Before you do anything, you should measure the voltages at the SATA power cable, especially if you have been swapping PSUs and modular cables.

[pepe]

T stands for 'fuse' in this case . I would suspect one of the TVSes (on the right of T2) to be shorted, so check those as well. Replacing it (the fuse of course) with a 0 ohm resistor or some kind of similar fuse.
if you want to use the drive i recommend replacing it (and also the shorted TVS if any), otherwise, for DR you might short it.

I think something like this would do the job:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/1206480

pepe

[walkngdude]

Thanks guys.
To Pepe:
I tested what I believe are the TVSes you talked about (see new attached pict).

I get:
D1A to D2A = 0 ohms
D1C to ground = 0 ohms
D2C to ground = 0 ohms

In Diode Mode:
D1A to ground (red probe on ground) = 0.137
D1A to ground (blk probe on ground) = 1.480

In Ohms Mode:
D1A (red to ground) = 811 ohms
D1A (blk to ground) = the meter is oscillating in the mega-ohm range.

Thanks again
Marc

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