Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 (yes this one again) not spinning

[kipdrerrie]

Good evening,

I went on a supply rant regarding my burned pcb board. So I gathered a soldering iron, a heat gun and a fitting donor board.

First thing I did was swap the bios chips and did a visual check on the other components. After that I tried booting it up and it seems to pass power through but the pcb board gets hot really quick and the drive still wont spin. Feeling rather desperate at this point that I did things wrong. Please see attachment for my (very amateur) try at soldering the chip on the board.

It also states the model, serial etc. Feel free to ask for more information if needed

Please let me know if any of the diodes could be removed because I've read on the forum here that it should be magical solution but im afraid I would shorten more components since the old board got burned the F out.

Kind regards,
kipdrerrie

Attachments

[pepe]

the pins of the rom chip are shorted. Sorry to say, but if this is your best soldering, then you better have somebody do it for you. Be aware that if that chip gets damaged, the recovery will be pretty though, consequently expensive.

pepe

[fzabkar]

I didn't see your "supply rant"??? Do you have a photo of the patient PCB?

Are you saying that your drive now reports "the model, serial etc" but still doesn't spin?

[Lardman]

Are you saying that your drive now reports "the model, serial etc" but still doesn't spin?

I read the post to mean the picture shows the model and serial, the drive does nothing but the PCB heats up.

That soldering is one big short, not sure if that was the OP's intention as it's pretty difficult to do it. I don't think that would have stopped the drive spinning though would it? Can't say I've actually ever tried it Might try later .

If the OP has some flux kicking around, applying a huge dollop and reflowing can rectify a heap of sins.

[kipdrerrie]

:)

the pins of the rom chip are shorted. Sorry to say, but if this is your best soldering, then you better have somebody do it for you. Be aware that if that chip gets damaged, the recovery will be pretty though, consequently expensive.

pepe

Hello, thanks for the reply. I removed it with a heat gun and I know it doesn't look good but I made sure the pins would reach the board. The pins were intact too.

I was talking about the bios chip. What would be the ROM chip?

[kipdrerrie]

Are you saying that your drive now reports "the model, serial etc" but still doesn't spin?

I read the post to mean the picture shows the model and serial, the drive does nothing but the PCB heats up.

That soldering is one big short, not sure if that was the OP's intention as it's pretty difficult to do it. I don't think that would have stopped the drive spinning though would it? Can't say I've actually ever tried it Might try later .

If the OP has some flux kicking around, applying a huge dollop and reflowing can rectify a heap of sins.

Hello, thanks for understanding. This was indeed not my intention. I don't have flux atm and I already spent a lot of bucks on equipment to fix this single issue

But from what ur saying is that flux might fix the connectors thats settled under the chip? By soldering it again using the flux to guide the tin. Did I understand that fully?

I've seen situations on this and multiple forums where

[fzabkar]

If the drive reports its serial and model number, then the ROM must be OK. One possibility may be Power Up In Standby (PUIS).

You could isolate the HDA contacts with a business card and see if the drive spins up.

[kipdrerrie]

Are you saying that your drive now reports "the model, serial etc" but still doesn't spin?

I read the post to mean the picture shows the model and serial, the drive does nothing but the PCB heats up.

That soldering is one big short, not sure if that was the OP's intention as it's pretty difficult to do it. I don't think that would have stopped the drive spinning though would it? Can't say I've actually ever tried it Might try later .

If the OP has some flux kicking around, applying a huge dollop and reflowing can rectify a heap of sins.

Hello, thanks for understanding. This was indeed not my intention. I don't have flux atm and I already spent a lot of bucks on equipment to fix this single issue

But from what ur saying is that flux might fix the connectors thats settled under the chip? By soldering it again using the flux to guide the tin. Did I understand that fully?

I've seen situations on this and multiple forums where

I sent this too early by accident.

To continue; I've seen situations on this and multiple forums where the 12v diode can be removed to make it work again. Would at least give me a moment to retrieve the files since I dont mind if the drive dies with the recovery.

So a solution without the flux would be nice if you know how.

[kipdrerrie]

If the drive reports its serial and model number, then the ROM must be OK. One possibility may be Power Up In Standby (PUIS).

You could isolate the HDA contacts with a business card and see if the drive spins up.

Hello,

The serial and model number are not stated whenever I connect the drive to pc. I can feel the pcb getting hot and it wont show drives just the usb cable. I tried different drives with different cables this is the only one not showing anything.

Could you maybe circle the HDA contacts on the image? I'm having trouble recognizing them on my pcb.
Also, how would I isolate the contacts with a business card? Are you talking about a paper card?

Thanks for the response and let me know so I can try it out

[pepe]

did you do anything about that soldering joke?

pepe

[kipdrerrie]

did you do anything about that soldering joke?

pepe

Yes, I reapplied that and used flux as adviced by the others here.

Still didnt work, what to do now?

[pepe]

Send it for further analysis. Can't say anything better.

pepe

[digisupport]

Topic is a joke right?
If not, good it´s "your own burned pcb board"
+1 as pepe said "Send it for further analysis"