Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
February 11th, 2021, 11:45
I used the wrong modular power supply cable on an old PC and zapped my WD1001FALS. Looked at the board and the Smooth controller has a burn mark on it. Does anyone have any advice about a good way to try to get this fixed?
This board doesn't have the u12 bios chip - Marvell.
WD1001FALS-00J7B1
Sticker - 2061-701622-800 05P
Etched - 2060-701622-000 REV P1
Steve
February 11th, 2021, 15:26
gravpulls wrote:I used the wrong modular power supply cable on an old PC and zapped my WD1001FALS. Looked at the board and the Smooth controller has a burn mark on it. Does anyone have any advice about a good way to try to get this fixed?
This board doesn't have the u12 bios chip - Marvell.
WD1001FALS-00J7B1
Sticker - 2061-701622-800 05P
Etched - 2060-701622-000 REV P1
Steve
The ROM is the least of your problems. A typical result in such cases is a damaged preamp on the headstack.
February 12th, 2021, 9:22
I have no idea what's wrong with it, but there's certainly stuff on the pcb that fried. I'm looking for advice about a good way to try to get the drive fixed.
February 12th, 2021, 17:27
If you provide a photo of your PCB, I can help you identify the test points for the preamp. However, if the preamp is dead, then DIY will not be possible.
March 27th, 2021, 22:07
I've been buried under work and finally got a chance to take a look at this drive again. I ordered a donor drive to have on hand if I get it repaired and to see if the drive would spin up. It does, but of course it doesn't work. Just shows up in bios as a 0MB unidentified disk.
May 26th, 2021, 11:45
I'm having a similar issue, my smooth chip was fried too, I bought 2 donor pcbs, same# (2060-701622-000), removed the U5 chip (Marvell) from the original & soldered to a donor. It took some time, I made sure I did everything correctly (no bad solder job). tried my hdd in an enclosure, the box is seen in win10, but the hdd doesn't spin... no burnt smells either. still, I'm going to test each caps to see if there's any shorts..
But I have a question tho, was I supposed to also grab the U2 (Winbound) chip from the original pcb? not just the U5 chip?
Thanks
May 26th, 2021, 12:55
well, i just tried swapping U2 chips, grabbed the one from the original pcb, still not working.
right now I have the U5 & U2 chips on a donor board, ordered from a hddrepair site.
i tested the pins on both chips for shorts, everything seems to be ok,..
May 26th, 2021, 13:16
stanton22 wrote:well, i just tried swapping U2 chips, grabbed the one from the original pcb, still not working.
fzabkar wrote:... A typical result in such cases is a damaged preamp on the headstack.
Many DR companies provide a free assessment - if your data has value to you this is good time to make use of it.
May 27th, 2021, 4:15
More likely that moving the chips around might not have got good contact with the PCB, saying that you should have tested to see if the donor boards spin up the drive before removing the chips.
Its more than possible that the short, or over voltage would have killed the pre-amp inside the hard disk itself. So its not fixable on your own. it will have to be sent to a data recovery for assessment.
May 27th, 2021, 6:47
There's not much point in swapping U2, that's just a dram, it stores no unique info.
If you swapped U5, contacts are good and it still doesn't work, then it is probably damaged. The overvoltage protection on most WD boards is crap, they protect the TVS instead of the circuit itself, so it is useless in case of a decent power surge, so the controller is probably toast and the preamp too.
It's not a DIY job, contact somebody with adequate knowledge and tools.
pepe
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