@crashpcberlin: Thank you for confirming my assumption.

If going SATA, I see there art at least two boards:

• 2060-810030-000 P1
• 2060-810030-001 P1

I hardly can find info about what different suffixes mean (-000 vs 001) and if it matters ?

Similar question for the revision (P0 vs P1).

The broken USB PCB of my patient drive ends by -(?)00 Rev. P0.
PCB sticker is 810035-100 02 XE...

So, what to match to ensure compatibility and if possible RAM with same capacity ?

Can anybody 100% confirm, that a swap of the MCU with encrytion keys directly to SATA board is possible??? In my mind, the pcb number has to be the same but I'm not 100% sure a about that.

//edit:

Ok i have checked a former Ace-Ticket regarding to that topic and they wrote:

Although I cannot 100% confirm, I think there is good hope.

Usually, there is always a SATA equivalent of an USB board, which is 810030 in for the 810035.

If the MCU (containing the SED encryption) and BIOS chip are transfered, I think it should work, unless part of the encryption is stored in the chip used for the SATA-to-USB bridge, but I haven't read anything like this.

The amount of RAM is same for WD50NDZW USB) and WD50NPZZ (SATA): 128MB.
We usually don't know if 810030 boards come from a WD50NPZZ, but presumably they do.

I would preferably find a donor board with same HSA controller.

Having high resolution pictures of a 2060-810030-000 REV P1 and 2060-860030-001 REV P1, where components are visible, would help. Same if Rev P0 did exist in SATA but I could not find any.

This is very vague information as it does not tell where the encryption keys are stored.
For the data encryption, all what I read is that they are stored in the MCU.


Yes, but if you have to communicate with firmware modules, to may knowledge you need a SATA board. (Unless the bridge acts as a pass-through for some VSC (Vendor Specific Commands).

If using the original PCB board, you then need an adapter like this one: https://www.hddheadtools.com/product/20 ... connector/

Because the circuit board is broken, BGA soldering work will be necessary in my case.
If the SATA board is compatible, I would prefer doing the soldering work directly to a SATA board.
It means for me buying a SATA board instead of an USB board plus an adapter.

This is only a part of the message and in this case it was clear, that the keys are stored in the mcu.




Not necessarily. You can do that with the unlocked ROM and USB-PCB and SATA-Adapter as well.



I told you so.



In this case you risk to mess up the second level translator and with no proper soldering skills and equipment you risk to damage the mcu.

I would totally recommend to sort this out BEFORE!

It entirely depends on the USB/SATA bridge.
It works with some models of external hard drives and not others.
See section "4 USB Drives" of HDDSuperTool's manual: https://www.hddsuperclone.com/hddsupertool/manual

I decided to first start with an USB PCB for maximal compatibility and to acquire later a whole SATA drive if I observe serious problems.

As for the soldering of the MCU, the initial alignement will likely be tricky.
Then the solder balls will auto-align the MCU.
I can have leaded solder balls, so that I can keep the temperature relatively low.
Low temperature and patience reduce the risk.

I received the replacement PCB and started the work to transfer the MCU that contains the encryption key.

Appart from the solder balls on the edge, I am not sure about how to tin the central part with the the nine square-shaped welding points.

On the MCU, when cleaning the old weld, I cannot distinguish nine pads, but a single tin lake that covers the whole central zone.
For now, I assume the square-shape pads on the board are only for heat dissipation. Can someone confirm?
(I didn't check yet the MCU datasheet.)

I wonder which is the best way tin these square pads to ensure uniform brazing thickness throughout the MCU.
Should I place a number of solder balls on the sqare pads?
Or renounce to reballing and just leave enough smoothed weld on each solder point of MCU?

SOSdonnees, They look to be ground- confirm with continuity check to a screw hole. You can just leave a small pillow of solder on each.

_________________
Data Recovery Services in the UK.
https://www.usbrecovery.co.uk/

I think you should concentrate more about the tore off data lines...

Yes, you are right. The MCU is a Marvell 88i1054-NXZ2 . So far, I could not find its pinout datasheet.

I prepared two pictures of the 2060-810035-000 REV P0 donor board, front and flipped back face, that I cropped and scaled in Gimp before exporting to Jpeg format. They can easily be reimported as overlaid layers in Gimp and after adding an alpha channel, their opacity can be modified, to facilitate the understanding of the tracks.
(I still have the Gimp .xcf image, but it is 13MB with PNG layers.)

I don't have time to study this case further today.

Sorry to say, but this looks like a dead case for me now.

Can't imagine, that all four torn off data lines are unimportant and someone is able to fix the pins.

For sure a very difficult case, but I cannot consider it as dead yet, because tracks can possibly be repaired.

Here are two more pictures of the MCU and tracks on the board from the patient drive.

Regarding second picture showing the MCU, for the pin circled red, I can reach the end on the copper track relatively easily.

Within the orange circle, things are more difficult, but the end of the copper track is still visible and can be further "excavated".

The thin tip of my Weller MLR-21 microsoldering icron is a giant as compared to the thickness of the tracks, but repairing them at those two locations still appears doable to me.

The tracks within the blue and yellow circles are currenty not visible, and removing some coating appears tricky because of the wrinkled topography of the "monolith" with deep canyons and because the copper tracks appears to be very thin.





The relatively poor quality of the pictures is because they were taken with a smartphone through the 10x eyepieces of the stereomicroscope.
My microscope is a Nikon with 3x magnification and 10x or 20x eyepieces. I will likely use the 20x eyepieces for this job.