Apacer 256GB NVME 0V Everywhere

[gameboybin]

Hi, my NVME suddenly died. I tried measuring everything to ground but There is no voltage on the whole board. When plugged in nothing heats up. What components can i check or change for the NVME to work again?

Thanks guys!

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[fzabkar]

One of those black thingies might be an electronic fuse, but if you want more specific info, you'll need to get rid of your potato camera.

[gameboybin]

One of those black thingies might be an electronic fuse, but if you want more specific info, you'll need to get rid of your potato camera.

Sorry for my potato phone. Here is a clearer picture

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[fzabkar]

I can see 3 switchmode DC-DC converters plus an SOT23-5 IC whose function I don't know. There is a tiny black thingy near the edge connector which I think may be a fuse, but I can't be certain. The ICs have no discernible markings, so I can't be sure about them either.

[gameboybin]

I can see 3 switchmode DC-DC converters plus an SOT23-5 IC whose function I don't know. There is a tiny black thingy near the edge connector which I think may be a fuse, but I can't be certain. The ICs have no discernible markings, so I can't be sure about them either.

Here are some more pictures of the components and their markings

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[fzabkar]

If 3.3V is not present at the Vin pins of the following ICs, then look for an smt fuse.

MT3068, M3tek, Synchronous Step-Down DC/DC Converter, 2.5V - 6Vin, 4A, 1.5MHz, DFN3X3_10L:
https://www.m3tekic.com/filedown.php?file=MT3068_PDS_R0.1_20180430-web.pdf&site=dXBsb2FkLzIwMjIvMDIvMjAyMjAyMTYxODU1NDY2NjAucGRm

MT8102, M3tek, Synchronous Step-Down DC/DC Converter, 2.7V - 6Vin, 2A/2.5A(Peak), 2.5MHz, marking 8102, (T)SOT23_5L:
https://www.m3tekic.com/filedown.php?file=MT8102_PDS_R0.15_20211209-web.pdf&site=dXBsb2FkLzIwMjIvMDIvMjAyMjAyMTYxNzU4MzYyODIucGRm

JW7805-1.8SOTA#TRPBF, JoulWatt, low noise fixed 1.8V LDO regulator, 1.8V - 5.5Vin, marking JWKZX, SOT23-5:
http://www.bstelec.com/uploads/soft/240906/JW7805.pdf

[fzabkar]

I'm wondering whether this is a fuse:

smt_fuse.jpg (33.01 KiB) Viewed 7894 times

[gameboybin]

I'm wondering whether this is a fuse:

The attachment smt_fuse.jpg is no longer available

So a little update.
Yes. fzabkar that is a fuse. However it is completely normal

So everything i was trying before was connected through a USB type C PCB. As soon as i plug the NVME in that PCB the voltage drops.
So I have tried wiring 3.3V. The Power Supply unit shows exactly the same problem => I One more time starts checking the voltage of every component i found out that 1 of 3 ICs has gone bad. Changed the IC. The NVME started to power on normally. Got 3.3 on other ICs, Power 1.2 and 3.3 Power rails on memory chips
=> I thought this is it. I fixed it

But no

I plugged back the NVME in the USB type C PCB to my PC. And Same exact problem occured. The voltage drops. NVME shows no LIFE.

So i find it strange. Wiring back 3.3V in through a power supply unit. Voltages seem fine

I am still trying to figure out what's wrong with this!

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[fzabkar]

I would measure the voltages at V1, V2, V3 and the output of JW7805.

Also measure the resistances between ground and each of these test points, and between the fuse and ground.

[gameboybin]

I would measure the voltages at V1, V2, V3 and the output of JW7805.

Also measure the resistances between ground and each of these test points, and between the fuse and ground.

The attachment regs.jpg is no longer available

So here are my measurements when sending 3.3v through Power Supply
The 0.9 FUSE is the voltage coming from 0.9v IC going in the controller

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[fzabkar]

I don't understand why there would be 3.3V at the output of the larger IC if the input is also 3.3V. Otherwise the voltages look OK.

You say that your USB port is being overloaded by the SSD. Are you able to measure the current draw when your SSD is powered from your power supply? Do you have something like this?

https://arduinotech.dk/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/UM34C.jpg

You haven't provided any resistance measurements. They would tell us if any of the power rails are excessively loaded.

[gameboybin]

I don't understand why there would be 3.3V at the output of the larger IC if the input is also 3.3V. Otherwise the voltages look OK.

You say that your USB port is being overloaded by the SSD. Are you able to measure the current draw when your SSD is powered from your power supply? Do you have something like this?

https://arduinotech.dk/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/UM34C.jpg

You haven't provided any resistance measurements. They would tell us if any of the power rails are excessively loaded.

Yes. Its is drawing 0.10A when plugged in through USB
and 0.6A when wired in directly with power supply

[fzabkar]

I'm confused. If the voltage drops when the USB port is powering the SSD, then something is wrong with the port. That is, unless the port is being limited to 500mA, which is the spec for USB 2.0 ??

[fzabkar]

I assumed that the voltage at the USB port was sagging. Instead, could it be that the USB voltage is OK and the problem is the output voltage of the 5V-to-3.3V DC-DC converter on the bridge PCB?

[gameboybin]

I assumed that the voltage at the USB port was sagging. Instead, could it be that the USB voltage is OK and the problem is the output voltage of the 5V-to-3.3V DC-DC converter on the bridge PCB?

I think that's it. The voltage restored. So the only problem lies in FW which saddly was unable to fix it with PC3K
Case closed. After restoring voltages. The PC recognizes FW of controller. However the FW hasn't been able to fix it!

Thanks a lot fzabkar!