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globz
 Post subject: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 13th, 2023, 21:45 
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Hello, mixed up PSU cables resulted in burned e-fuse in my Samsung Evo 860 SSD system drive (mz-76e250, MZ7LH1T0HML0).
Attachment:
File comment: model
332880723_887932102472760_3355144744845608687_n.jpg
332880723_887932102472760_3355144744845608687_n.jpg [ 14.3 KiB | Viewed 1315 times ]

Attachment:
334236737_163845249850463_5153163401579727689_n.jpg
334236737_163845249850463_5153163401579727689_n.jpg [ 649.55 KiB | Viewed 1315 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: e-fuse burned
333283899_1402356250533829_8003672715813683332_n.jpg
333283899_1402356250533829_8003672715813683332_n.jpg [ 557.37 KiB | Viewed 1315 times ]


After removing the e-fuse I observed the 5Vout is shorting to ground and 5Vin is not shorting to ground.
Attachment:
File comment: e-fuse marked
e-fuse.jpg
e-fuse.jpg [ 54.57 KiB | Viewed 1315 times ]


About 50-80% of the components on the board are shorting both front and back. Thermal camera and finger test only results in heat when the e-fuse is soldered on the PCB (heat comes directly from e-fuse with power to drive), otherwise the drive seems to have no additional heat with power.
Replacing shorted components near the affected area and around different parts of the board has failed me so far with no change in the e-fuse short. Replacement parts I used come from donor board of same model within 2 months of production.

USB interface not detecting drive. Not seen in bios or anywhere when connected via SATA.
No difference after multiple long power cycles. No difference with the drive in safe mode.

Here is the other side of the drive if needed:
Attachment:
File comment: back of board
333025601_172439358915366_7148349109298022797_n.jpg
333025601_172439358915366_7148349109298022797_n.jpg [ 663.94 KiB | Viewed 1315 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: back of board 2
333730609_1805188253188657_3077546597427754111_n.jpg
333730609_1805188253188657_3077546597427754111_n.jpg [ 707.84 KiB | Viewed 1315 times ]


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Lardman
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 14th, 2023, 5:05 
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If you've removed the fuse then you'll get nothing downstream anyway without bridging it. Anything on a shorted line will read shorted when measured how hard is the short?.

You will need to inject post fuse to check for heat but I wouldn't use more then 1.8v. FWIW randomly replacing components isn't all that helpful, it's better to pull them and leave the pads empty while chasing down the short.

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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 14th, 2023, 13:16 
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@globz, what would have if you removed the fuse from your TV, microwave, stereo, etc? Do you think they would continue to function?

Measure the resistances of the capacitors around the PMIC chip (S2FPxxxxx).

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 16th, 2023, 20:45 
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Lardman wrote:
If you've removed the fuse then you'll get nothing downstream anyway without bridging it. Anything on a shorted line will read shorted when measured how hard is the short?.

You will need to inject post fuse to check for heat but I wouldn't use more then 1.8v. FWIW randomly replacing components isn't all that helpful, it's better to pull them and leave the pads empty while chasing down the short.


fzabkar wrote:
@globz, what would have if you removed the fuse from your TV, microwave, stereo, etc? Do you think they would continue to function?

Measure the resistances of the capacitors around the PMIC chip (S2FPxxxxx).


What I meant with "Thermal camera and finger test only results in heat when the e-fuse is soldered on the PCB (heat comes directly from e-fuse with power to drive), otherwise the drive seems to have no additional heat with power" was using voltage injection to the 5Vout resulted in no other heated components that I noticed. Surprisingly I believe that the e-fuse still functions correctly (seems to short 5Vin and 5Vout even with burn on it), and I do have 2 additional new e-fuses from donors for replacement once short is solved.

The resistances around the PMIC chip (let me know if anything is difficult to read):
Attachment:
File comment: PMIC
unnamed.jpg
unnamed.jpg [ 1.42 MiB | Viewed 1069 times ]


Thanks for your time :D
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Lardman
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 17th, 2023, 5:12 
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Not sure how you've measured those they all appear to be off by orders of magnitude for immediate inline readings and none directly short either.

How did you established there's a short after the fuse?

With the fuse removed switch things into diode mode (red probe on ground) and check the drop to the caps at the pmic and around the fuse.

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 17th, 2023, 20:18 
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Lardman wrote:
Not sure how you've measured those they all appear to be off by orders of magnitude for immediate inline readings and none directly short either.

How did you established there's a short after the fuse?

With the fuse removed switch things into diode mode (red probe on ground) and check the drop to the caps at the pmic and around the fuse.


In diode mode with red probe on ground:
Unmarked:
Attachment:
File comment: e-fuse side unmarked
unnamed (1).jpg
unnamed (1).jpg [ 1.49 MiB | Viewed 956 times ]


Marked:
Attachment:
File comment: e-fuse side marked
unnamed (1) marked.jpg
unnamed (1) marked.jpg [ 2.83 MiB | Viewed 956 times ]


Other side:
Attachment:
File comment: flip side
unnamed (2).jpg
unnamed (2).jpg [ 3.01 MiB | Viewed 956 times ]


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Lardman
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 18th, 2023, 5:22 
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No need to replace the missing/damaged cap, it's just a smoothing cap.

A couple of the pmic outputs are far too low your 0.0x should be 0.3x - 0.4x even with the fuse removed. Either you have several lines hiding shorts or the pmic itself has shit the bed. Given the lack of heat and the high current draw with the fuse in place my money would be on the pmic itself. Pull it and check again, then replace from a donor and check.

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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 18th, 2023, 17:38 
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This is a typical power layout for an SSD. If the e-fuse doesn't contain the overvoltage, then the next component in the chain is the PMIC, followed by the load switches.

There may be other ICs at the +5V end, eg reset supervisors, but you would need to consult the datasheets, or do some continuity testing with your meter.

Code:

                         PMIC

     .--------.   .----------------.
     |    _   |   |      .------.  |  ___
  o----o_/ \o-----|-+----| Buck |--|--UUU-+---------------------->  V1
     |        |   | |    '------'  |      |
     '--------'   | |              |  L   |
                  | |              |     ---
     e-fuse or    | |              |     --- C
     current      | |              |      |
     limited      | |              |      |
     load         | |              |     ===
     switch       | |              |     GND
                  | |              |
                  | |              |          .----------.
                  | |    .------.  |  ___     |   Load   |
                  | +----| Buck |--|--UUU-+---|   Switch |------->  V2
                  | |    '------'  |      |   '----------'
                  | |              |  L   |
                  | |              |     ---
                  | |              |     --- C
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |     ===
                  | |              |     GND
                  | |              |
                  | |              |          .----------.
                  | |    .------.  |  ___     |  Load    |
                  | +----| Buck |--|--UUU-+---|  Switch  |------->  V3
                  | |    '------'  |      |   '----------'
                  | |              |  L   |
                  | |              |     ---
                  | |              |     --- C
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |     ===
                  | |              |     GND
                  | |              |
                  | |              |
                  | |    .------.  |
                  | +----|  LDO |--|------+---------------------->  V4
                  | |    '------'  |      |
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |     ---
                  | |              |     --- C
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |     ===
                  | |              |     GND
                  | |              |
                  | |              |
                  | |              |     VCC
                  | |              |      +
                  | |              |      |
                  | |              |      | L
                  | |              |      C|
                  | |              |      C|
                  | |              |      C|
                  | |    .-------. |      |    D
                  | '----| Boost |-|------+--->|--+-------------->  Vboost
                  |      '-------' |              |
                  |         |      |             ---
                  |        ===     |             --- C
                  |        GND     |              |
                  |                |              |
                  '----------------'             ===
                                                 GND


SSD Power Delivery Design Guide:
https://www.ti.com/cn/lit/ug/tidu961/tidu961.pdf

Internal SSD Block Diagram:
https://www.ti.com/solution/solid-state-drive?variantid=18380

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 18th, 2023, 20:47 
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Lardman wrote:
No need to replace the missing/damaged cap, it's just a smoothing cap.

A couple of the pmic outputs are far too low your 0.0x should be 0.3x - 0.4x even with the fuse removed. Either you have several lines hiding shorts or the pmic itself has shit the bed. Given the lack of heat and the high current draw with the fuse in place my money would be on the pmic itself. Pull it and check again, then replace from a donor and check.


fzabkar wrote:
This is a typical power layout for an SSD. If the e-fuse doesn't contain the overvoltage, then the next component in the chain is the PMIC, followed by the load switches.

There may be other ICs at the +5V end, eg reset supervisors, but you would need to consult the datasheets, or do some continuity testing with your meter.

Code:

PMIC

.--------. .----------------.
| _ | | .------. | ___
o----o_/ \o-----|-+----| Buck |--|--UUU-+----------------------> V1
| | | | '------' | |
'--------' | | | L |
| | | ---
e-fuse or | | | --- C
current | | | |
limited | | | |
load | | | ===
switch | | | GND
| | |
| | | .----------.
| | .------. | ___ | Load |
| +----| Buck |--|--UUU-+---| Switch |-------> V2
| | '------' | | '----------'
| | | L |
| | | ---
| | | --- C
| | | |
| | | |
| | | ===
| | | GND
| | |
| | | .----------.
| | .------. | ___ | Load |
| +----| Buck |--|--UUU-+---| Switch |-------> V3
| | '------' | | '----------'
| | | L |
| | | ---
| | | --- C
| | | |
| | | |
| | | ===
| | | GND
| | |
| | |
| | .------. |
| +----| LDO |--|------+----------------------> V4
| | '------' | |
| | | |
| | | ---
| | | --- C
| | | |
| | | |
| | | ===
| | | GND
| | |
| | |
| | | VCC
| | | +
| | | |
| | | | L
| | | C|
| | | C|
| | | C|
| | .-------. | | D
| '----| Boost |-|------+--->|--+--------------> Vboost
| '-------' | |
| | | ---
| === | --- C
| GND | |
| | |
'----------------' ===
GND


SSD Power Delivery Design Guide:
https://www.ti.com/cn/lit/ug/tidu961/tidu961.pdf

Internal SSD Block Diagram:
https://www.ti.com/solution/solid-state-drive?variantid=18380


PMIC removal solved the short at the e-fuse! There is another short happening as you predicted.
I have done some testing, and could not trace this short after removing multiple components.

SORRY about the flux.

Unmarked:
Attachment:
IMG-3790.jpg
IMG-3790.jpg [ 2.34 MiB | Viewed 778 times ]

Marked:
Attachment:
IMG-3790 marked.jpg
IMG-3790 marked.jpg [ 3.02 MiB | Viewed 778 times ]


Unmarked:
Attachment:
IMG-3791.jpg
IMG-3791.jpg [ 2.31 MiB | Viewed 778 times ]

Marked:
Attachment:
IMG-3791 marked.jpg
IMG-3791 marked.jpg [ 2.91 MiB | Viewed 778 times ]


Here is where I started tracing the other short (circled in red):
Attachment:
IMG-3791 marked reference.jpg
IMG-3791 marked reference.jpg [ 2.9 MiB | Viewed 778 times ]


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Lardman
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 20th, 2023, 6:30 
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Why have you wiped the pcb ? There's virtually nothing left and most of it had nothing to do with the problem rails. If this was a data recovery task just the amount of heat on the board would now be of a concern, who knows if you can reconstruct enough to get the drive working again now.

The lines you are chasing down are the 2.5v and 0.8v rails, needless to say you didn't want 2.5v on a 0.8v rail have you checked the resistance between them.

From the caps you have circled 2 are on the 2.5v and the other on the 0.8v line.

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 20th, 2023, 15:20 
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Lardman wrote:
Why have you wiped the pcb ? There's virtually nothing left and most of it had nothing to do with the problem rails. If this was a data recovery task just the amount of heat on the board would now be of a concern, who knows if you can reconstruct enough to get the drive working again now.

The lines you are chasing down are the 2.5v and 0.8v rails, needless to say you didn't want 2.5v on a 0.8v rail have you checked the resistance between them.

From the caps you have circled 2 are on the 2.5v and the other on the 0.8v line.


Not sure what you mean by "wiped the pcb" but I removed the PMIC (solving the e-fuse short) and the components around it still had shorts so I removed some without luck. I now also have two donor chips within a few months of the original so spare parts are of no concern.
Honestly if this is too much heat the whole thing is probably done from the extent it has been worked on, I would like to continue to see if anything comes to fruition as the drive contains school work I'd love back before spring break is over.

I can do measurements on the working donor chip I have which has not been tampered with if needed. I am unsure of how to locate the 2.5v and the 0.8v rails. As far as I know the power connector is 3 - 3.3v connections, 9 - grounds, 3 - 5v and 3 - 12v. How can I locate the start and end of the 2.5v and 0.8v lines? I can purchase another modular power supply and will try to borrow the thermal camera to try voltage injection again at the components circled in red but this will take some time.

I will happily label my untampered drive for others to reference if needed.

Thanks again for your time :D
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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 20th, 2023, 15:40 
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When an SSD is subjected to an overvoltage, the most likely victims will be the semis, not the capacitors. Now it appears that the overvoltage has not only punched through the e-fuse, but also the PMIC. :-(

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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 20th, 2023, 16:28 
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These would be the test points I would examine (in addition to the e-fuse).


Attachments:
PMIC_TPS22990.jpg
PMIC_TPS22990.jpg [ 114.77 KiB | Viewed 668 times ]
TPS22975.jpg
TPS22975.jpg [ 125.49 KiB | Viewed 668 times ]
TPS62085_Vboost.jpg
TPS62085_Vboost.jpg [ 126.61 KiB | Viewed 668 times ]

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 21st, 2023, 15:11 
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fzabkar wrote:
When an SSD is subjected to an overvoltage, the most likely victims will be the semis, not the capacitors. Now it appears that the overvoltage has not only punched through the e-fuse, but also the PMIC. :-(


fzabkar wrote:
These would be the test points I would examine (in addition to the e-fuse).


Please take note of the "KEY". Yellow is shorted SSD, Green is Donor working SSD.
Attachment:
IMG-3790 marked 2.jpg
IMG-3790 marked 2.jpg [ 2.76 MiB | Viewed 560 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: e-fuse side 860
IMG-3791 marked 2.jpg
IMG-3791 marked 2.jpg [ 2.7 MiB | Viewed 560 times ]


Thanks again for your time! :D
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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 22nd, 2023, 12:10 
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Like you say, just about every supply rail is shorted to ground. Since you have removed the power semis, this points to damage in one or more of the major ICs.

To me, this SSD is not recoverable.

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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 22nd, 2023, 12:22 
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In my view, SSD and HDD protection circuits are woefully deficient. The simple solution to these overvoltage problems is to implement UVLO and OVLO (overvoltage and undervoltage lockout). That is, the e-fuse should remain switched off if the input is outside a safe range.

Here is an IC that has these kinds of protections:

https://datasheets.stg-maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX16010-MAX16014.pdf

INA+ is the OVLO sense input, INB- is the UVLO sense input.


Attachments:
MAX16010_OVLO_UVLO.gif
MAX16010_OVLO_UVLO.gif [ 17.36 KiB | Viewed 483 times ]

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Lardman
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 22nd, 2023, 14:21 
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fzabkar wrote:
To me, this SSD is not recoverable.
The op has multiple donors I'd pull the nand and transplant (if I remember correctly they're bga -316) . The level and location of shorts would also be consistent with technician damage under the bgas and there's always the hope any electrical problems hit the sdram or controller, rather than the nand.

It would be really helpful if schematics or even boardviews fell of a truck in China.

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 22nd, 2023, 14:44 
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fzabkar wrote:
Like you say, just about every supply rail is shorted to ground. Since you have removed the power semis, this points to damage in one or more of the major ICs.

To me, this SSD is not recoverable.


Lardman wrote:
fzabkar wrote:
To me, this SSD is not recoverable.
The op has multiple donors I'd pull the nand and transplant (if I remember correctly they're bga -316) . The level and location of shorts would also be consistent with technician damage under the bgas and there's always the hope any electrical problems hit the sdram or controller, rather than the nand.

It would be really helpful if schematics or even boardviews fell of a truck in China.


I'm getting access to a thermal camera tomorrow and will try voltage injection. Let me know if you have any suggestions for this.

Also as I have two spare donor boards, would I be able to transplant the nand, controller, and memory to the donor with function? I have no access to PC3k or others like it. What is a safe temperature when transplanting (if possible)?

Thanks again for your time and help. :D
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fzabkar
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 22nd, 2023, 14:54 
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I would measure the voltages on the donor and determine which are the Vcc and Vccq supplies for the NANDs, then check whether these are shorted on the patient.

I see a shorted bypass capacitor at the corner of one of the NANDs, but I don't know it's function.

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globz
 Post subject: Re: Samsung 860 EVO e-fuse Dead Short mz-76e250 MZ7LH1T0HML0
PostPosted: March 29th, 2023, 18:13 
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Joined: March 13th, 2023, 20:34
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fzabkar wrote:
I would measure the voltages on the donor and determine which are the Vcc and Vccq supplies for the NANDs, then check whether these are shorted on the patient.

I see a shorted bypass capacitor at the corner of one of the NANDs, but I don't know it's function.


Here is information I found to help me with this, please make any corrections if you feel it is incorrect.

Quote:
The correct voltage levels for VCC and VCCQ on the Samsung EVO 860 SSD are:

- VCC: 5V +/- 5%
- VCCQ: 1.8V or 3.3V +/- 5%

If you do not have access to datasheets or online resources to help you trace the VCC and VCCQ lines, you will need to manually trace the lines on the board. Here are some steps you can follow:

1. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between VCC and VCCQ and ground. The resistance should be very high or infinite. If the resistance is low or zero, there may be a short on the VCC or VCCQ lines.

2. Use a magnifying glass or microscope to inspect the board for any visible signs of damage or short circuits. Look for any components that may have been damaged or have visible signs of a short circuit, such as burn marks or discoloration.

3. Follow the traces on the board to locate any components that are connected to the VCC and VCCQ lines. Look for any components that may have been damaged or have visible signs of a short circuit.

4. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the VCC and VCCQ lines and the components that are connected to them. If the resistance is low or zero, the component may be shorted and may need to be replaced.

5. If there are no visible signs of damage or short circuits, use a continuity tester or multimeter to trace the VCC and VCCQ lines on the board. Start from the PMIC and follow the traces to locate any components that are connected to these lines.



Voltage injection with thermal camera onto these lines resulted in the ARM chip heating up directly in the center with no other additional heat spotted (0.8V used). Removing the shorted component you mentioned near NAND was unsuccessful, but it is on the same line as PMIC (unsure if vcc or vccq).


Lardman wrote:
fzabkar wrote:
To me, this SSD is not recoverable.
The op has multiple donors I'd pull the nand and transplant (if I remember correctly they're bga -316) . The level and location of shorts would also be consistent with technician damage under the bgas and there's always the hope any electrical problems hit the sdram or controller, rather than the nand.

It would be really helpful if schematics or even boardviews fell of a truck in China.

I believe that I have the skills to transplant this chip but have no access to software or tools which could be used to recover the data. I cannot do firmware adaptation as I cannot currently access the firmware of this chip (unless any of you know how) so transplanting to a donor may be useless as I do not have access to specialized software. I am willing to fork over money to purchase software if this seems like a viable option (as I've been quoted $1250 for a transplant recovery, and deepspar for example is under this price although I'm not sure if it capable of such recovery). Maybe a shop with pc3k could assist me after a successful transplant, but if anyone has any alternatives or ideas for recovery than I am all ears. If this recovery goes successful than I am willing to shave off the top layer of this pcb to show the boardview for all future repairs.

I am not giving up on this repair.
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