CompactFlash, SD, MMC, USB flash storage. Anything that does not have moving parts inside.
May 19th, 2015, 12:28
Yeah, I noticed that it was getting hot as well.
May 19th, 2015, 12:40
Frank was wise enough to point out that ground reference was wrong .Cheers to him for this and in the end it was nailed .I am not very sure but once i have some time at hand i like to try out a few tools in mind for short testing
May 19th, 2015, 14:59
Nice work. You are one of the more helpful pros on this forum, so I am truly happy to have been able to return the favour. Thanks also for the detailed feedback. Too often people don't report their results, or simply say "problem solved" without elaborating.
As for Windows 10, my observation was in regard to the many users who are reporting that their drives fail after a Win 10 update, but who don't make the connection to PUIS. I suspect that many such jobs are turning up at DR labs.
May 21st, 2015, 4:14
December 16th, 2015, 15:01
Thanks for this post. I have just finished work on a OCZ Vertex 4 with a similar failure. It was not possible to get the SSD into the engineering mode via the jumpers, and a couple of the NAND chips were getting hot. Following the post it was possible to identify that capacitor C170 had failed.
December 16th, 2015, 15:38
cheadledatarecovery wrote:Thanks for this post. I have just finished work on a OCZ Vertex 4 with a similar failure. It was not possible to get the SSD into the engineering mode via the jumpers, and a couple of the NAND chips were getting hot. Following the post it was possible to identify that capacitor C170 had failed.
Glad it helped John
May 3rd, 2021, 14:57
Mainly thanks for this forum as I tracked down the failed capacitor. I tend to do more arduino stuff but because of the information I did track it down. For a (hopefully) helpful record I did the following:
1) I connected the drive via a USB connector which I powered up on my cheap bench power supply
2) I mainly did that to protect the USB connector and drive from further damage by limiting the current, and even at 500ma the voltage was clipping at about 3v. This very much indicated I had a short somewhere.
3) I did search around the board checking the resistance however the short made that hard to spot
4) So I powered up and used the temp probe on my cheap multimeter, and dabbed around the components. Some of the NAND chips were warmer than others and initially I thought it must be a cascade failure - even with the clipping they were running at 40C
5 However I then spotted a 70C on C23, and having failed to desolder it (even though I have a desolder station), I carefully cut it in two.
After than I applied the power again and immediately it was running without clipping the voltage, and it just worked! I was going to try and put a new cap on it, however on reading it's for filtering and based on that there is probably enough caps around the supply still there to remove most of this.
Thanks again for the articles.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.