Samsung SSD 850 EVO 2TB - burned - repair guide
Posted: October 15th, 2019, 10:18
Hello,
I have found this forum while searching for a guide to repair my burned Samsung 850 EVO. I have found a great inspiration in this topic:
Samsung 840 EVO 512GB - burned - pls need advice
This is modified guide for a similar SSD failure.
I have opened the case (note the burned SATA connector)
Located the burned part. Luckily most of the marking was readable as "PTSI" which stands for TPS62130RGT* DC-DC converter.
This part is sold for 2USD. I have bought it at Farnell.
Covered surroundings with a kapton tape. Applied some soldering flux. And removed the part with a heat gun.
It wasn't easy and I almost gave up. Samsung uses high temperature soldering paste and the part is connected to the GND plane. I had to set the air temperature to 400°C.
Then I added a thin layer of tin on the new part pads (with normal soldering iron), covered it with a soldering flux and soldered on board with the heat gun.
Replaced and cleared:
PCB bottom side:
I've been using the repaired disk for 3 weeks without any problems. SMART data looks good. But I wouldn't use it for any valuable data.
Thanks to autors of original topic.
Hopefully this will help someone
I have found this forum while searching for a guide to repair my burned Samsung 850 EVO. I have found a great inspiration in this topic:
Samsung 840 EVO 512GB - burned - pls need advice
This is modified guide for a similar SSD failure.
I have opened the case (note the burned SATA connector)
Located the burned part. Luckily most of the marking was readable as "PTSI" which stands for TPS62130RGT* DC-DC converter.
This part is sold for 2USD. I have bought it at Farnell.
Covered surroundings with a kapton tape. Applied some soldering flux. And removed the part with a heat gun.
It wasn't easy and I almost gave up. Samsung uses high temperature soldering paste and the part is connected to the GND plane. I had to set the air temperature to 400°C.
Then I added a thin layer of tin on the new part pads (with normal soldering iron), covered it with a soldering flux and soldered on board with the heat gun.
Replaced and cleared:
PCB bottom side:
I've been using the repaired disk for 3 weeks without any problems. SMART data looks good. But I wouldn't use it for any valuable data.
Thanks to autors of original topic.
Hopefully this will help someone
