@suricate.ch Is it unfilled? Can you reflow it.

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reballing didn't help. I've ordered two chip, I'll update you when I get them.

Keeps us posted, especially if you ordered from AE.

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My diag was correct. I swap PMIC from donor and media is working. i've copied all data. I found a donor for 25$ on second hand website. Here is donor pics for reference. I think those WD are used in XBox.

Good stuff and thanks for the update. Same PMIC on the SN530 then too.

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hello dear HDDGURU.
I am trying to fix my SSD SN560 CH for my xbox which is dead for no reason.
SSD is not getting detected anywhere in PC, sometimes PC even freeze when going into bios or booting windows.
So I was looking into power IC and around it, measured everything. All voltages seems to be present although I am not sure if all as I don't have same or donor ssd to verify.
Also clock is present on crystal. NAND chip is getting warm while SSD controller is somewhat hot but maybe it is normal for it. There are no shorts. Anything else I could check?
Here is a drawing I made with my measurements:

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance

If all the voltages are where they're supposed to be, there are no shorts then it's likely to be degraded nand causing firmware problems. Not a lot you can do Im afraid.

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That is the thing. I am not sure if all are present as I dont have a reference board to check. Even though all caps have voltages but for example 0.8v feels weird as it might not be the good output voltage for that step down converter output and this ic has many. If anyone could confirm that would be awesome to know. The thing is I am holding to any hope as without this ssd xbox is a brick forever

There are several small resistors above the NAND. One of these will probably be a Ready/Busy* pullup. One end of this resistor will connect to NAND Vccq, while the other end will connect to the controller's Ready/Busy* input.

I have noticed that other SanDisk SSDs use the R/B* pin as a safe mode shorting point. If you can find R/B*, then short it to ground before power-on, and release it a few seconds later. If the SSD then identifies itself with its factory alias (eg "SanDisk Milpitas"), you will know that the controller has basic sanity.

To find the R/B* pin, measure both ends of each resistor. I expect that they will both be sitting at Vccq, unless the SSD is doing something, like repairing itself, for example. Let us know what voltages you find before proceeding with the shorting.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

thanks for replies. I am literally taking any advices and take any hope I can because without first partition on this SSD my xbox is a piece of brick, there is no solution apart from paying microsoft insane amount of money. will post all resistor readings around NAND later today.

also i read about that i can plug SSD and power pc up to the BIOS and leave for a few hours, it may start some kind of recovery process and repair itself. not sure if that is a hoax and worth doing now?

here are more voltages around the board and two rails resistances that might be important.
each point of components(resistors for example) was measured against common ground, not mistaken for measuring across resistor for instance as my dodgy drawing might look

Inductors should measure close to 0 ohms. Also, a load resistance of 13 ohms seems far too low, but I haven't measured this myself.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

sorry my drawing might be super misleading but those OHMs readings are for caps. those are caps. yes 13 ohms (0.8v rail) seems a bit low but we don't have anything to compare for a reference.
also coils are all fine(beeping)

I have a feeling that the resistor nearest the crystal could be an R/B* pullup. The Vccq supply appears to be 1.2V. One end of the resistor should be connected to Vccq. The other end can be shorted to ground ... if I have correctly identified it. There are other resistors around the controller, so I am not confident. I think it would be risky.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

I'd forgotten that this essentially bricks your console. I don't have one in (I've just checked) to run some tests for you but I've just order an SN520 which looks to be similar from ebay should be here in a few days if you'd rather I try testing things which may let the magic smoke out.

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thanks I guess I would rather wait a few days before I jump short resistors as last cause
thanks all

The drive I have is slightly different but close enough. Shorting it to ground prevents startup but does not trigger safe mode no damage to the drive. I also shorted all voltages around the nand to ground during power up as a test to see if it would damage anything. It didn't, but nor did I get to safe mode.

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@fzabkar, should that 1.2v be 1.8v?

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so i guess i am almost out of luck here? will try to short something and report later this week

The proximity of the capacitors above the NANDs suggests to me that NAND Vcc and Vccq are 2.5V and 1.2V, respectively. Does that make sense?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.