HDD GURU FORUMS

This HFM512 GDJTNI-82A0A NVMe disk comes from a laptop that was damaged by splitting Coca Cola. The laptop is not working now so I was thinking about the rescueing data with help of external eclosure. My NVMe enclosure AXAGON uses JMS 583, so it could be OK,( if it is not a fake chip) because Windows reports it as

USB\VID_152D&PID_0562&REV_0214

USB\VID_152D&PID_0562

which is JMS567 (or JMS562) SATA 6Gb/s Bridge Controller

The result is the windows can not recognise SSD disk in that enclosure.
The disk is quite hot in the enclosure eventhough
I did not find any oxidation on PCB of SSD.


What voltages should I measure on SSD disk?

Do you have any idea how to continue?

Thank you for help
L.

Can you just physically check if it's a 583, 562, or 567 controller? Because if it's one of the latter, this drive won't work.
You must use a USB adapter that supports the PCIe protocol.

Physically ( on PCB) there is JMS 583 IC

Do other working NVMe drives work with this adapter?

Yes, in the past it did

Is it correct to suppose I should find only these voltages:
3.3V
1.8V
and about 1.2V
?
Or must be there any other voltages present?

What voltages do you measure at the 3 inductors to the left of the main IC?

https://au.static.webuy.com/product_images/Computing/Solid%20State%20Drives%20-%20NVMe/SSSDHKHHFM512GDJTNIA_l.jpg

https://notebookparts.com/cdn/shop/products/HFM512GDJTNG-8310A_L15195-002__51069.1612982947.1280.1280.jpg

On 3 inductors (those near voltage regulators) I measured:

1,8V

0,896V

2,56V

From the last value I guess there is a short somewhere



I also enclosed a picture taken with infra camera. As you can see there is a short in ( or below ) UFS memory.



Do you think reballing could help?

Or any other solutions?
Thanks for reply

They all seem OK to me.

John1 wrote:2,56V

From the last value I guess there is a short somewhere

No, this is the correct value.

John1 wrote:Do you think reballing could help?

No, the drive is electronically functional. The controller heats up, but within normal operating ranges.

John1 wrote:Or any other solutions?

Everything points to firmware corruption. The only options are to heat/cool the NAND flash drive.

fzabkar wrote:They all seem OK to me.

For me too.

But 2.56V seems to me low. Normally, there should be about 3.3V. Or not?
Besides if you check the infrared picture in details, you will see the memory is not warm in all parts the same but only one part is more hot. So from that, I guess, there is an internal short. Or can you please explain why I am wrong?

The only options are to heat/cool the NAND flash drive.

Can you explain more? Thanks

John1 wrote:But 2.56V seems to me low. Normally, there should be about 3.3V. Or not?

The correct power supply for this memory is between 2.6 and 2.8V.

John1 wrote:Besides if you check the infrared picture in details, you will see the memory is not warm in all parts the same but only one part is more hot. So from that, I guess, there is an internal short. Or can you please explain why I am wrong?

Only the controller heats up, not the entire system, because programming has cut off access to the memory, and therefore its full initialization.

John1 wrote:Can you explain more? Thanks

Part 5 and 6:
https://blog.acelab.eu.com/methods-of-d ... ction.html

John1 wrote:But 2.56V seems to me low. Normally, there should be about 3.3V. Or not?

It would not make sense for the output of a DC-DC converter to be 3.3V if its input is 3.3V.