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 Post subject: PCB
PostPosted: August 17th, 2010, 9:39 
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Joined: August 16th, 2010, 10:59
Posts: 8
Location: Italia
Come da richiesta eseguita il 16/08/10 Vi allego per maggior chiarezza il fail del circuito con indicato i punti che ho chiesto chiarimenti.
Saluti


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 17th, 2010, 11:56 
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Possiamo ripararla riprogrammarla o fornirla di ricambio ma occorre conoscere la versione completa del fw registrato sui dischi altrimenti una scheda 'qualsiasi' non funziona.
We can fix it reprogram or have the spare, but need to know complete fw on disk otherwise one random pcb probably won't work.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 17th, 2010, 12:02 
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Diodo sounds quite awesome :)

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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 17th, 2010, 12:24 
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Yes :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 18th, 2010, 10:07 
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Vi ringrazio per la Vs. sollecitudine alla mia richiesta.
Vi invio quanto richiesto che trovo sul disco:
--SAMSUNG SP 2514N
--LBA 488.397.168 250.0GB P120
--S/N: SO8BJ1GL904443
--P/N: 123111FL9791183 P/V MS
--250GB/7200rpm/8M/PATA
--L52484
Questo è tutto ciò che è scritto sul disco.
Se possibile inviare la scheda da sostituire.
Prego indicare costo e termini di consegna.
Grazie Saluti
PS: non ci sono problemi per il lavoro sono un elettronico.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 18th, 2010, 12:36 
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Cioe' sei in grado di riprogrammarti il chip Marvell che c'e' sulla scheda partendo dai dati contenuti nel TUO disco (che non parte) ?
Non per altro perche' 8 su 10 una scheda di ricambio qualsiasi non funzionera'.
Ecco perche' occorre il drive. Sperando che non sia danneggiato il preamplificatore che e' sullo stack.

You mean you are able to reprogram the Marvell chip on the board starting from the data on the disk (that doesn't start) ?
This because 8 out of 10 a replacement board won't work. That's why the drive is needed, hoping that internal preamp on HS is not damaged.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 19th, 2010, 10:56 
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In risposta alla VS. inviata ieri ( Messaggio 3963) a questo punto ditemi cosa posso fare e in che modo procedere.
Saluti.
giusto meda


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 21st, 2010, 7:51 
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Non ho ancora ricevuto risposta al e-mail inviato il 19/08/10.
Esiste qualche problema?
Fatemi sapere cosa posso fare per la spedizione e il costo di tutta l'operazione prima di intervenire per la riparazione.
Grazie
Saluti


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 23rd, 2010, 3:09 
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Controlla i messaggi privati

Check PM.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 28th, 2010, 4:42 
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That is a diode. He is the protective effect. Defend him down on the line.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 28th, 2010, 12:47 
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Google translator?

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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 29th, 2010, 3:21 
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No :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 29th, 2010, 11:29 
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Grazie per la risposta, ma che fosse un diodo lo sapevo, quello che non riesco a definire è il componente posto sopra il diodo, non so se è un condensatore o una resistenza.
E' possibile inviarmi i valori di questi componenti sia della resistenza o condensatore e quello del diodo?
Oppure se possibile (ancora meglio) lo schema elettrico e la disposizione dei componenti della scheda
BF 41- 00085A Rev. 10

Saluti
Giusto Meda


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 29th, 2010, 16:24 
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The component beside the diode is a capacitor. It would be OK. However, directly below the diode is a zero-ohm link or a fuse. You need to remove the diode, and replace the fuse (?) with a wire link. If there is no other damage, the board should work OK, but you will no longer have any overvoltage protection on that supply.

BTW, just how much do the "gurus" charge for removing a shorted diode? ;-)


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 31st, 2010, 8:32 
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Location: Italia
Si ok come dici è un condensatore, ma di che valore ?
Controlla il PCB che ho inviato dove ho segnato la posizione del componente, lo stesso è in c.c.
Tutto il resto è ok compreso le resistenze di protezione.
Saluti.
giusto meda


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: August 31st, 2010, 9:16 
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Hmm. One side of the component is connected to the +12V supply via the 000 link. The other side is obscured by your annotation. I thought it may have been connected to ground, which would have confirmed it as a filter capacitor in parallel with the diode, but now I'm thinking that it may be an inductor which is connected in series with the +12V supply. Inductors will measure close to zero ohms on your multimeter.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: September 2nd, 2010, 5:54 
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Ok penso proprio che sia un induttore in effetti è zero ohm.
Come posso fare per far funzionare hard disk?
Si deve cambiare la scheda? se si non so dove posso reperirla.
Questo inconveniente può aver danneggiato anche l'hard disk?

SALUTI.
giusto meda


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: September 2nd, 2010, 13:19 
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fzabkar wrote:

BTW, just how much do the "gurus" charge for removing a shorted diode? ;-)


A true "guru" would not simply remove or replace a diode. A true "guru" would be aware of all other potential complications that can occur. More serious faults can be present and need to be properly identified and the disk repaired and recovered in a controlled environment with specialist equipment on hand to ensure the best and safest possible recovery in the event of any additional problems.

Maybe for some simple cases simply removing the diode is all that is required, but a true "guru" will not take this chance because the recovery of the important user data is too important

Can you imagine how unprofessional and silly it would be if someone were to actively enourage end users to make DIY repairs without informing them of possible complications?? :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: September 3rd, 2010, 6:40 
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I was being facetious.

In fact when I get a job with a blown fuse, I don't just replace the fuse. I survey and test the board and components, looking for likely culprits, reflowing dry solder joints, inspecting the PCB for cracks, etc. I then replace the fuse and test for thermal issues by heating and cooling the board. I also tap test for dry joints or loose connections. Then I soak test the equipment, overnight or longer if necessary. I also power cycle it to test for power-on surges.

However, I would never dream of charging someone $1400 for this work.

In your case, I would check the semis around the DC-DC converters, check the loads for shorts, and inspect the board for any signs of damage. I would remove the PCB from the drive, replace the TVS diode(s) and any associated fuse, power up the board, and then check the voltages at each of the DC-DC converters. I would probably retrieve the ROM contents at this point to guard against future loss. I would then test the resistances of the motor windings, and check the preamp for shorts. Finally I would reassemble the drive and get the data.

It's not trivial work, but it's also not difficult. In fact a TV tech's job is much more demanding.


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 Post subject: Re: PCB
PostPosted: September 3rd, 2010, 6:50 
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giusto meda, what is the resistance between the two pads of the 12V TVS diode, after removing the diode? Is the resistance still low?


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