MODEL ST2000DM001
PN 1E6164-570
SW CC45
PCB 100687658 REV C

I compared with other PCB models on the forums that received an answer, and I thought about those 2 possibilities of shorting out that I drawn on picture no.1. Which is correct? Also, I have to short those 2 pins after entering F3>T command but before new message arriving from HDD and of course connection between PCB and HDD with both 2 sockets (like in ES.2 HDD) ???

Thanks a lot!

In addition: Last summer, I tried the 7200.11 BSY fix to the drive (Nokia DKU-5, lifting PCB, placing plastic between PCB & head contacts etc), but I was getting reply of everything I was entering in terminal (just as RX and TX were shorted out). But I didn't get any device busy messages (LED ...CC whatever). I read in another topic that I can enter the resetting commands and ignore what the terminal replies me. But I was afraid not ruining the drive and thought that I MUST short out some 2 pins.

Wanted to let everyone know about my fix that worked for me a few months ago:

I finally shorted out the 2 pins marked in blue, but I didn't got lucky to access the terminal interface. When I shorted them, the head was making some odd sounds. I tried this operation for a few times, until I got some response from the terminal that caught my attention. It seems the drive started working ok and I got no errors. So I immediately plugged the drive to the USB port and... TADAA: THE DRIVE WAS ALIVE AGAIN. I don't know what was the problem after all, but maybe shorting those 2 pins repeatedly resetted the drive in a certain way I can't explain. But the drive is working now.

What I found later was that my motherboard (BIOSTAR M7 TE with ICH7) was locking the drives. I got a lot of blue screens, I/O errors when heavy copying files and so on, until my drive was not seen in the BIOS. After I fixed the drive, I bought another one to backup my data on the old one (I assumed that the resurrected drive wasn't going to work too much). Then I plugged the new drive to the motherboard and I kept getting the same errors and issues with the new drive so I stopped before wrecking the new drive as well. Now, both drives have SMART reports regarding SATA Cable and Read Errors (although I tried 3 different SATA cables) and the old one reported some unstable sectors a few time ago, but they misteriously disappeared and went back to 0. Finally, I changed my motherboard with a MSI one (ICH10), tested the drives and working like a charm since then.

In conclusion: I really think most of the "not seen in BIOS" issues are HEAVILY related to the possible incompatibilities between the HDD and the motherboard. The issues DO NOT HAPPEN when the drive is connected through USB adaptor or case. I strongly recommend to IMMEDIATELY STOP USING THE DRIVE when you encounter the first symptoms of an issue and TEST THE DRIVE ON ANOTHER MOTHERBOARD. It might fix your issue with just a simple upgrade.

Hello, I have the same issue. My drive just died after a BSoD about a driver power state failure. The drive won't even show up on the bios anymore. The drive was working 100% perfect prior to this. My model is ST2000DM003 and not M001 like your post. But it's the 687658 REV C. I'm willing to try the short of the two blue pins, I just had a question, is this while the PCB is plugged in? My first through was to just short them out to drain a capacitor on the board or something. But then I wasn't sure, or are you soldering something there, powering it up, then shutting it off and taking the short back out? Thank you in advance!

Before you go trying to short anything, you need to know what the problem is. What are you getting in terminal & what do the status registers of the drive show? Is it making any funny sounds, etc.

_________________
Data Medics - Hard Drive, SSD, and RAID Data Recovery Service Company

BIOS takes a lot longer to post when the drive is connected. After a while I get "no physical device found" and it does not show up in the BIOS configuration. I've tried this on a second PC with the same results. The drive was working fine prior to the shutdown that after 15 minutes resulted in a BSoD with "driver power state failure". Now it's impossible to find the drive on any PC. This was not the boot drive, it was a secondary storage drive.

There are zero funny sounds, no rattling, no grinding, nothing out of the ordinary. The drive does NOT get hot. The drive does spin when it's powered up. Scan utilities cannot see the drive either. I've tried other SATA ports on two different motherboards too. I've swapped out the SATA cable, and the power cable as well.

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Used CPU: Second hand Intel & AMD for computer upgrade need!

First, you should try to connect to the HDD via terminal. Search about "7200.11 BSY fix" to find out how to connect your HDD to the PC via USB-to-COM interface or plain COM interface and access it in terminal. You also need to know that the method stated for the 7200.11 model ONLY allows you to see what terminal says when you power on the drive while connected to the COM interface. If needed in the future, you will need to use a 1.8V USB-TTL adapter OR you can easily modify the classic Nokia DKU-5/CA-42 adapter yourself using this guide: http://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?t=29286&f=1&start=0#p202330.

Once you get response from terminal, please write here what you get. Based on this, maybe there is another problem.

About the shorting points: yes, the blue points need to be shorted while the drive is running. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SHORT OUT OTHER CONTACTS OR COMPONENTS ACCIDENTALLY BECAUSE THIS MAY RUIN YOUR PCB/HDD !!! Once you short them out, you will hear a clicking sound from the HDD, let it shorted for about 2-3 seconds then let it run normally, then turn it off and try to start it up. You can also try connecting the drive through an USB to SATA adapter and check what device manager says. Also if you get corrupted RAW partition, you can try AIOMEI Partition Assistant standard to "refresh" the NTFS partition or repair the MBR in order to "see" the old corrupted NTFS partition or RStudio to recover the files from the RAW partition.

Also, I have some questions for other users. I want to reset my SMART attributes for my 7200.14 HDD. Accidentally, I've destroyed my USB-to-TTL adapter by short circuit (my hand was shaking when I wanted to modify the adapter to make it 1.8V compatible) and I want to know if anyone tested or has any knowledge that the /1 command followed by N1 will successfully wipe out the SMART data, because I have residual Interface CRC Error and End-to-End Error Detection since my last incompatibility problems with the previous motherboard and I want to clear them to have "a brand new" drive in SMART. I am looking forward for an answer, so I could proceed or not in buying a new USB-TTL adapter to do the job done correctly this time. Thanks!

First, you should try to connect to the HDD via terminal. Search about "7200.11 BSY fix" to find out how to connect your HDD to the PC via USB-to-COM interface or plain COM interface and access it in terminal. You also need to know that the method stated for the 7200.11 model ONLY allows you to see what terminal says when you power on the drive while connected to the COM interface. If needed in the future, you will need to use a 1.8V USB-TTL adapter OR you can easily modify the classic Nokia DKU-5/CA-42 adapter yourself using this guide: http://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?t=29286&f=1&start=0#p202330.

Once you get response from terminal, please write here what you get. Based on this, maybe there is another problem.

About the shorting points: yes, the blue points need to be shorted while the drive is running. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SHORT OUT OTHER CONTACTS OR COMPONENTS ACCIDENTALLY BECAUSE THIS MAY RUIN YOUR PCB/HDD !!! Once you short them out, you will hear a clicking sound from the HDD, let it shorted for about 2-3 seconds then let it run normally, then turn it off and try to start it up. You can also try connecting the drive through an USB to SATA adapter and check what device manager says. Also if you get corrupted RAW partition, you can try AIOMEI Partition Assistant standard to "refresh" the NTFS partition or repair the MBR in order to "see" the old corrupted NTFS partition or RStudio to recover the files from the RAW partition.

Also, I have some questions for other users. I want to reset my SMART attributes for my 7200.14 HDD. Accidentally, I've destroyed my USB-to-TTL adapter by short circuit (my hand was shaking when I wanted to modify the adapter to make it 1.8V compatible) and I want to know if anyone tested or has any knowledge that the /1 command followed by N1 will successfully wipe out the SMART data, because I have residual Interface CRC Error and End-to-End Error Detection since my last incompatibility problems with the previous motherboard and I want to clear them to have "a brand new" drive in SMART. I am looking forward for an answer, so I could proceed or not in buying a new USB-TTL adapter to do the job done correctly this time.

I forgot to say something about the shorting method. I used 2 sewing needles to fit the two holes on the PCB and to have a stable contact which I touched one each-oher by reorienting them. I did this because the drive was still under warranty and I wanted to recover my data without paying hundreds of dollars to the recovering services WHILE also keeping the warranty so I couldn't solder anything. But knowing you have to short the 2 points for just a couple of seconds, it's not worth to solder two wires and even add them a switch, then desoldering them because it's a loss of precious time. Just be careful when you do this not to accidentally touch other components and it's ok.

Seagate DM series, if your do not need data - then follow the DIY road.
If you want to recover data you need to know that your chances are minimal with a BIG risk of losing data forever.

_________________
Digitalsupport Data Recovery
https://digitalsupport.dk

I am just curious where are these 2 pins marked in Blue? I see the controller picture, but nothing marked Blue. Please clarify.

=PP

One month later...is there an answer?:

"I am just curious where are these 2 pins marked in Blue? I see the controller picture, but nothing marked Blue. Please clarify.

=PP"