Kindly requesting matching PCB or whole HD
Information as follows:

1.0TB SATA / 16MB Cache
WD10EACS

Model: WD10EACS-00D6B1
S/N: WCAU46016930
WWN: 50014EE2025D5D65
DATE: 08 JAN 2009
DCM: DHRNHT2CFB
LBA: 1953525168
5VDC: 0.70A
12VDC: 0.55A
R/N: 701590

PCB#2060-701590-000 REV A

Thank you for any and all help. This is my first time here.

A little bit of history, the drive was my best friends. He never messes with components. He disconnected it when he was having problems with other hardware. Then not knowing what he did, he plugged one of the smaller molex connectors inside the SATA jumper slot. Needless to say it never started back up. So I found an exact pcb but when I installed it nothing happened, windows will recognize it but will not initialize it and the bios does not recognize it properly. Which I assumed is because the pcb I have isn't an exact match via the DCM# and such. But was wondering if anyone has a donor, or if anyone could assist me in what I should try next. Again any and all info is appreciated. The data on the disk is important for his business.

If your PCB does not have an 8-pin serial flash memory chip at location U12, then you will need to very lucky to find a compatible PCB. This is because each board has unique "adaptive" information that would need to be transferred to the donor. In your case the adaptives are internal to the Marvell MCU (big "M").

ISTM that your friend probably damaged the MCU by applying an excessive voltage to one or more of its I/O pins. BTW, when you say that "nothing happened", does the drive spin up? If not, then it must be identifying itself using a factory alias (?), in which case it may have more serious issues.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

First and foremost, thank you for the reply, it is appreciated very much. I should have been more clear on the post above. The drive spins up fine with the new pcb. I just don't think the guy I bought it from (e-bay) gave me the correct info on it ( it is the same number and revision ). With the old pcb it doesn't even power up. With the new pcb, no name in the bios. Windows knows a drive is there but cannot initialize it. And again, thank you. If I need to have this post moved to troubleshooting ( or post there) I will.

Looks like I do not have a bios chip at location U12. Would that mean the bios is integrated into the PCB's Main Chip IC? Is it even possible to exchange those?

You need a professional to reprogram the PCB.

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Buy your friends Toshiba\Hitachi and your enemies Seagate.

Unfortunately, it looks like it is more involved than a simple reprogramming. The original MCU is probably damaged, which would suggest that its internal flash memory is probably inaccessible. This means that the adaptive data would need to be retrieved from the platters rather than from the original PCB.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

A professional should be able to reprogram the pcb from the failed drives firmware. On some dead PCB's it is possible to read the ROM information even if the motor does not spin up.

_________________
Buy your friends Toshiba\Hitachi and your enemies Seagate.

Has he even checked the TVS?

The OP writes that his/her friend "plugged one of the smaller molex connectors inside the SATA jumper slot". This suggests that power was applied to the MCU's I/O pins. No TVS diode will protect the drive from such a mistake. However, it could be that the friend has not explained himself correctly, so it may be worth checking the diodes, just in case.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

hi,
i have this PCB in stock and be able to help you program firmware make it works well with your drive. please feel free to contact me by email or skype if need help. thanks.

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data recovery service[/b]

I would like to add:

I thank you so much for helping me.


To reiterate, my friend tried plugging a floppy drive 4-Pin power cable into the SATA jumper ports and disabled the hard drive. I will check the diodes and let you know this week. I know it sounds horrid and repetitive but I really do appreciate the help.

Alright, forgive my ignorance but I would test both the D3 & D4 TVS diodes? Then the r64 & r67 resistors. Now would using a multimeter at the diode testing setting be ok? And should I test with voltage running through the board? I just want to make sure the board that isn't running doesn't have a blown TVS diode. I know there is a slim chance in hell it might be them, but I've never tested them before, and what should I be looking for voltage wise? Like I said if I should move this to another section i will. Just trying everything before I send it to someone here. As always thank you for the help.

I have the information I need for testing. I adjusted what I was looking for in search a bit better, which is what I should have done to begin with rather then bothering everyone. I'll let everyone know what I find. If not I'll be contacting some lucky fellow on this forum for a reprogramming or mcu transplant.

While setting my multimeter to its diode testing mode:

D3 = .405v (where the black is on the cathode / striped side and red is on the anode)
resistor R67 = 0

&

D4 = .519v
resistor R64 = 0

This is without power running to the board. Should I assume the TVS diodes are functioning correctly. Or should I apply power to the board and test again? I just don't want to further damage the board if I have to. Thank you for all the help everyone.

The resistors and diodes are OK.

BTW, resistance measurements should be performed with power off. This is because the meter injects its own small current into the component being measured.

One more thing you could do is to test the voltages at the jumper pins. Do this with power applied. Set your meter to the 20V range, connect the black probe to SATA power ground or to a screw hole, and use the red probe to test each of the jumper pins. The bottom pins appear to be grounded, but I expect that the upper pins should be tied up to the Vio supply. You can test the board on its own, ie there is no need to install it on the drive.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Awesome, thank you will check the jumper voltages when I get home from work.

Please close this thread I have moved it to Data Recovery & Repairs.