HD154UI: Samsung Spinpoint F2 EcoGreen: PCB needed

[mcaustria]

Im lookin for a replacement PCB for a Samsung Spinpoint F2 EcoGreen (HD154UI)

perhaps somebody can tell me where to get a replacement
any offers or helps appreciated

Every piece of information I could find on the HDD&PCB is down bellow

THANKS in advance, G

=INFO=================================================
Samsung Spinpoint F2 EcoGreen: HD154UI/Y 1,5TB/R54/32MB; REV.A

Main IC: 88i8827-TFJ2; YPM21573; 0922 A1PT; TW
RAM: SAMSUNG 919; K4H561638J-LCCC; H5616 8VC504GBU
other IC: SH6125B; 95CXPD7; LA960008; C4; TexasInstruments

HDD-Labels: P/N: 61831B761A0FHS
S/N: S1Y6J1KS711484; 1.???: (HD154UI); 2.???: SEC-HD154UI(B); 3.???; 4.??? 2009.07; 5.???
90522PD

HDD-printons: T4; 04; 1
BNT4; 0414

PCB-Label: PGAZD6X1A61014

PCB prin-ons: Trinity R00; 8/16M Rev.06
BF41-00284A 01
TS-M-8V02C SG; 94V-0; TOPSEARCH; 17934; 0905 D; SO-1 9
=======================================================================

[fzabkar]

Can you describe the failure symptom?

If you upload a detailed photo, one of us may be able to help you repair your board. Many times the problem is only a shorted diode, in which case it can simply be removed.

[mcaustria]

I was wondering if it might be possible to just sodder on a new dioe perhaps or what ever...

Ok, just to give you an "brief" history of my stupidity - it all started with undusting my old pc and doing so I must have given my old Seagate IDE HDDs PCB a static-shock - so when i turned the pc back on, some nice smell filled the air...
Ok, so I thought it was just the Seagate HDD, and since i had a IDE-2-SATAconverter-controller and an external HDD with a SATA-Hitachie Drive inside, I quickly put that one in but even thought there was no smell or anything - didnt even spinn up - so i put i back in the external controller and even thought it was working before... nothing...
So allthough I had tried to be extra cautious, I still beleaved it was my fault shocking the other Drive as well -
So off to the store to get a brand new SamsungHDD - put it all back together - I didnt touch a thing and i earthed myself before ( as i always do... ) - the same thing again....
So I threw away the whole pc ( was a old 1.2GHz anyway) after I had discovered ----- it had also fried my CD and my DVD-Burner.......

So I bought a new PCB for my SeagateHDD and it worked - so the internals were fine
So, now on the its old PCB - must be some kind of a Rectifier - so I guess its a Diode which is completly fried ( and i ripped it out in my anger... )
Now the thing is i dont know if it was the controller or the powersupply since i conneted the psu over an adapter as well...

Anyway, perhaps you go any suggestions - the pix are as good as i could get them with my old camera - if i go anycloser it cannt focus (and it focuses better with no zoom to start with - i really ought to get new hardware in gerneral....) - but anyway as far as i can see there's no damage to be seen.
Perhaps you know i which order i should try to replace the smd-parts
THANKS for any help in advance

SeagateHDD - the 1st - that started the mess

Hitachi - 2ndHDD

Samsung - 3rdHDD

PS. b4 anybody points out about the guaranty - I bought the exact same SamsungHDD a year ago or so and I swaped the data from my old Samsung to to new one since I thought i would be using the other machine less and thus taking the opportunity the "prolong" the hdd-fault-time for my data.
And now I'm stuck with the broken SamsungHDD form a year before and I guess they'd recognise with a closer look.
I know I could swap the PCBs probably but I'd have to temp-save the data to an other at least 1,1TB drive since I filled mine pretty good....
Last solution if this doesnt work - and I'll try with the Hitachi first b4 i go on to the Samsung...

[mcaustria]

====INFO on the Hitachi HDD ===================================
HITACHI DESKSTAR 7K1000.C 1TB ( DS7SAC100 HDS721010CLA332 )
1TB 3.5" SATA2 7200RPM 32MB
--MainLabel------------------------------------------------------------------
0F10762JPT39C0C02
P/N: 0F10762
CAPACITY:1TB MLC:JPT39C FW:39C
LBA:1.953.525.168 SECTORS CHS:16383/16/63
MADE IN CHINA BY Hitachi Global E182115 CN
Storage Products(Shenzhen)Co.,Ltd. CN

RATED:5V 450mA,12V 700mA SATA 3.0 Gb/s
HDS721010CLA332 RPM:7200RPM
Type DS7SAC100 C P/N:H3D10003272S
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MainIC: LSI; MUSE-B2B2-NL; 0A71256;0945P (e3); PP1H227; TPP1H04 TH
RAM: SAMSUNG 943; K4H561638J-LCCC
otherIC: 9L2N12C; 0A56511; MALAYSIA
==============================================================0

[BlackST]

A replacement PCB for the Samsung is useless as most probably it won't work straight away (too many things should match) . Try it but if doesn't work, you need pro help for sure. You won't get a bit out of the drive without everything matching .

We can eventually repair the broken PCBs , OR make ANY new one to match your drive AND recover data. The original drive is needed, no matter the conditions of the broken PCB (even without PCB).

Sorry I don't sell PCBs alone.

[fzabkar]

All drives will probably be OK with a simple, no-cost DIY repair.

Get hold of a digital multimeter (US$10) and measure the resistances of the 5V and 12V TVS diodes on the 200 ohms range. The diodes are the two largest components nearest the SATA power connector. The failed Seagate diode is obvious.

If any diode tests close to zero ohms, then it can be removed with flush cutters. The drive will work OK without it, but it will no longer have overvoltage protection on the affected supply rail. Be absolutely sure your PSU is OK.

For continued protection you can replace the 12V diode with an SMBJ12A, and the 5V diode with an SMAJ5.0A. Both are available from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.

The following URLs should help you identify the components:
http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HDD_ICs.txt
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diodes.txt

[networkpc3000]

A replacement PCB for the Samsung is useless as most probably it won't work straight away

almost like that. for Samsung new model with simple change PCB success range less than 1%. for old model be betters 10~25% around. if you don't have pro tools for process with FW it doesn't worth to take good PCB for try. please feel free to contact me by email or MSN if need help with these three case. good Luck

[BlackST]

I love Samsungs... P.s. Usually at 1st failure the pcb is still repairable. It's when people tinker with pcb with idiot advice that something else get fucked and a simple - but not diy - repair becomes more complicated and expensive. B of BEWARE comes before the S of SERVES YOU RIGHT.

[solar]

Hello there.

I myself have a similar problem. A short-circuit fried a part on the PCB which might be the 'safety fuses/diodes?' mentioned above. My camera is horrendous so I took the other chap's picture and circled in the burnt area and tried to take some pictures of the burnt area. The disk has the same specs, the PCB is also trinity R00 8/16M REV .06 but has a different PCB erm ID code? the label is:

PHAZD952A63802

The various IC's have also different values. But ok... to start this. It shorted and I am getting a replacement, thank god.. however I do not know if the new PCB will save the data on this one, which is 20 years of my life.. ye ye, somehow miraculously down the lane my data managed to keep with me from my dad's 4 MB drive to my 143 MB? drive and onwards, always moved it before they died.. but this one was just unexpected. In fact this one was a new 1.5 TB external which I used to pull of my data from my failed laptop disk this summer with testdisk etc.

Anyway, Just as I saved everything, the damn thing caught fire.. shorted... sigh.

Ok, so dug my head in the sand as normally I always have a solution over the years. This time.. looking bad I thought. Either way, the company were kind enough to send me a replacement but the PCB still is a big "probably not compatible" risk. I was teaching a bit at the local university in some other fields but we have a micro-electronics division (which I applied once for at Warwick or Durham too when in the old country haha). Thank god for customers I ended up doing something else.

Either way, so in one of the pictures you will see my burnt part.. the burnt 'fuse' (I will just refer to fuse/part and pardon my ignorance), and the one next to it are off. I almost get some hope when I read some that one could remove them and give it a try (which I won't). The problem is the larger IC next to it, I do not know what this IC does but as I was getting my coffee , finding it in flames, this one got scorched on the corner and has lost I don't know 5-7 pins of it?

The question(s) are:

In this order perhaps:

A. Go to my ME guys and ask em, can they verify the 'fuse' thing and /or solder them pins again (with their lil clean rooms and boojaa tools )?

B. Trying the disk with switching PCB boards?

C. Plead with Samsung to send a PCB board or another parts place (with more specific identification data)?

or D. cry my arse off as my memories of my best years (plus a ton of writing incl. the soft copy of 2 books and short stories will still be held away from me?

The disk was purchased in summer and wa, I beleive produced in 09.2009, a replacement one is likely form a newer batch.. with luck it's still rev. 06 but you guys will know way better than me the likelihood of success) (someone mentioned ~1% as an example).

kind regards,

Solar

Attachments

My sorry case of a soul

the OP's picture but with my burnt area encircled

[solar]

Oh.. to add... the burn scar apart from on the pins on the IC SH1625b is it? seems to be 'superficial' ; although obviously I do not know if heat could of damaged it inside.

[fzabkar]

solar, your drive's motor controller IC (SH6125B) has failed. Unfortunately a board swap probably won't work because each board stores unique, drive specific information in flash memory. These data need to be transferred from patient to donor. In your case the flash memory is internal to the Marvell MCU (big "M" logo).

[solar]

thank you fzabkar.. in that case, it doesn't matter that after 1 hour of explaining a level 1 tech support guy over at the company I needed an exact disk replacement and he said he sorted it.. (much to my surprise.. talking to support tends to be like talking to children), they sent me an entirely different disk altogether sigh.

Well, fzabkar, I was teaching at my tehcnical university and I know some people I could maybe pull of a favour from over @ Microelectronics... do you think they could transfer the chip and hmm, rebuild this PCB? I mean they have all the equipment and I should be able to get help from them, they're nice chaps.. however, I do not know if they have info on all the necessary chips and whatnot.

solar.

Thank for your reply though.

[solar]

Oh let me add, the burning happened on two small diodes, now missing from the picture (cross-reference, the other one.. this was due to me short cicruiting the disk inside a desktop). The burn marks on the chip you mention are secondary, came from the sparks/fire. In case that matters.

solar

[BlackST]

The PCB can be repaired OR data recovered EVEN WITHOUT NATIVE PCB AT ALL - i.e. totally destroyed. Of course not everyone can. Just in case...

[fzabkar]

Oh let me add, the burning happened on two small diodes, now missing from the picture (cross-reference, the other one.. this was due to me short cicruiting the disk inside a desktop). The burn marks on the chip you mention are secondary, came from the sparks/fire. In case that matters.

solar

The two small components appear to be capacitors, probably bypassing one of the supply rails. If you clean the area with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol (tape head cleaner), then the damage will be more apparent.

[diggmarc]

Swapping the PCB helps! It just need to be excactly the same PCB and probably the same HD size. I did this with two 1.8T and two 1T Samsung HD and it works. I fully disagree with BlackST.

My problem is, that I don't have a second Samsung 1.5T HD with a functioning PCB: Trinity R00; 8/16M Rev.06. (exactly the like mcaustria) and im looking for that PCB. Does anyone can help?
Its a samsung HD154UI (1500GB/R54/32M) Rev.A with the PCB: Trinity R00; 8/16M Rev.06.

[fzabkar]

I've seen a lot of threads since this one. It appears that a straight board swap is OK for Samsungs, if you find a match, otherwise a chip swap accounts for any differences. However, this subject seems to be a bone of contention.

Anyway, ISTR that one Samsung user was able to obtain an advance RMA which allowed him to swap PCBs and recover his data. I presume your drive is still under warranty, so this may be an option for you.

[hddinfo]

Samsung drives are using only few version of firmware and roms are same. there is a high chance on pcb swap.

[harddrivedonor]

we have it in stock, here is direct link to the product
http://pcb-hdd.com/samsung-hd154ui-trin ... -1077.html