Here is the drive I need to match up. I need to perform a head swap so I think the DCM last 5 digits needs to match. Reasonable price is fine. This is a two 20gb platter drive. Not a single 40gb platter.

WD400BB-32CCB0
Date: 06 NOV 2001
DCM: HREHBT2AH
Made in Malaysia

Thanks!

I have a bad news for you:
This drive needs special care due to WD's headstack alignment.
This is a really hard case.
You should find a pro, who can solve this problem.

Janos

Thanks for the heads up. I did read something about that somewhere. But it's not worth the cost so I am going to mess around with it myself for fun and assume I will ruin the drive further and not be able to recover any data.

good luck

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Still looking for this drive if anybody has anything. Thanks!

So I am thinking maybe a PCB would be worth a try also before I try to swap heads. Here's the PCB info:

0000 001092-100(White tag on plastic ide/power connector)

2060-001092-006 (on actual PCB board)

Let know if you have a match. Thanks!

Maybe you ought to diagnose the fault a bit better before changing the heads, which is very risky.

What is the actual problem? Clicking?

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It is the classic click of death. Motor spins up and then constantly clicks. PCB board does look slightly corroded and the foam between the PCB and hard drive is brown in some spots making me thing there was some type of short on the PCB. I was able to find a very close matched PCB. The only difference was instead of 0000 001092-100(White tag on plastic ide/power connector) it was 0000 001092-200(White tag on plastic ide/power connector). Also the manufacturer of the big chip on the PCB was IBM and not WDC.

When I swapped this PCB in the clicks dissapeared and the drive seemed somewhat better and was found in my bios and windows(not before). The only issue now is that there is a problem finding the S/N. It's now showing the S/N something to the affect of [][] [] [][][][][] but the model number does show up as WD400. Also it's reading as a 8.7GB drive instead of 40GB and in Windows it can't be initialized or accessed. This is why I am guessing I might need the exact PCB board and that last number 200 needs to be 100 with the same manufacturer for the chips on it. I could be totally off but would rather mess around with the PCB then the heads at this point.

Unfortunately, you have to find a data recovery pro to deal with this problem.

_________________
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I disagree. Still looking for the pcb mentioned above. Thanks!

Was the donor PCB from a drive with the exact same fw version, or did you swap the ROM chip over?

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The donor drive was from another WD400BB but the rest of model number and DCM were different. Both were dual platter drives from the same year. I just did a straight PCB swap and did not swap the ROM chip. The actual etched part number matched on both PCBs but my guess is it definitely had different firmware. I know the biggest chip on the board had different part numbers. And some of the chips had different manufacturers.

Here is a picture of my PCB. Wondering if someone could point out where the ROM chip is in case I need to a swap if I can't find a replacement PCB. Thanks!

Hey guys I attached a picture of my PCB. I was wondering if someone could point out the ROM that needs to be swapped out if I I can't find an exact replacement PCB. Thanks!

Its U2.

thanks, sorry about the double post. Yeah that will be tough to swap. Does anyone thing these have a good chance of working without a ROM swap?

http://www.hdd-parts.com/20080711.html
http://www.hdd-parts.com/20080710.html

My PCB# and HD serial again for reference
WD400BB-32CCB0
Date: 06 NOV 2001
DCM: HREHBT2AH
Made in Malaysia
0000 001092-100(White tag on plastic ide/power connector)
2060-001092-006 (on actual PCB board)

Can someone who has replaced the ROM chip at U2 give me some pointers on what type of soldering equipment they used? I am going to have to buy a new tip for mine but was wondering if there are recommendations for small tips and or irons with specific watts so I don't blow out the board.