Looking for WD1600BEVS-22UST0

[tt_guy]

Hi Guys

New to this forum.
Have been reading up a lot before I registered.

Learned about this site from my lecturer when I got certified as a Data Recovery Professional

Really love this place.

Anyway, details of the drive are as follows:

WD P/N: WD1600BEVS-22UST0
DATE: 08 MAR 2008
DCM: HHOTJANB
PCB: 2061-701499-600 AD

The drive is clicking and I'd like to try a PCB swap first but rather buy the entire drive as I'm very far away from the US
Thanks

[tt_guy]

I've noticed most people have the 1200BEVS or the 2500BEVS
Can anyone flash the PCB of one of these drives with the firmware for the 1600BEVS?

I'd really like to try that first.

[labtech]

Do not flash anything ever if you need data recovery. Well, on a second thought I think I may misinterpret what you mean by "flashing".

What is the history on the drive? Why do you think it is clicking?

[pcimage]

Very very very unlikely to be PCB on a clicking drive of this model

[tomsfans]

I have this western digital pcb. Contact me for more details.

[hddzone]

For WD PCB swap, the donor PCB need to have the same board number as the damaged one. The number is begin with 2060-, not the one on the white paper.

[tt_guy]

Very very very unlikely to be PCB on a clicking drive of this model

I'm thinking so as well.

Sorry for the lengthy delay in this but the customer only just got back to me and is looking to pursue this.
Does anyone have this drive to sell?

Thanks!

[northwind]

If you're certified "Data Recovery Professional", you should know that pcb's don't get 'flashed with firmware' (in the way that you mean), a clicking drive is VERY VERY VERY rarely connected to a bad pcb (esp. this model, never) and that swapping heads (most probably the issue with your drive) needs a lot of practice, a lot of knowledge and a lot of know-how. And I mean A LOT.
Judging by your questions, and no offense, you don't seem to have any of the above.
And now comes the question: Is this a client's drive?

Sorry I'm not yelling at you, but if this is not your own drive and contains critical data, then the owner should be aware of the risks.

EDIT: Now I see you mentioned this is a customer's drive.
I hope you know what you're doing.

[tt_guy]

Hi northwind,

I appreciate your concern, and I'm glad that you're willing to point out to anyone new to the field that there's a lot of risks involved.
Yes, I am certified, and yes I was taught that PCB's are unique to each drive, however, in a lot of detailed reading, I've come across some posts on other sites (trying to find the link) where people "reportedly" flashed a PCB from one drive of a similar model and used it in another drive... so this is why I asked.
If anywhere on the internet were a reliable place to verify this information... then here would definitely tell me true or false.

Also, I know that PCB swaps are hardly ever the cause of drive failure, but the term "hardly" does point out that it can happen.
I personally prefer to try PCB swaps on any drive before I open it, because as you insinuated, head swaps are very tricky (especially with 2.5" drives).

I have done many head swaps in the past, so I do have some practice logged, not enough to personally call myself a pro, but enough to be able to get it done.

Again, I really appreciate that you have the guts to step up and speak your mind, because it'd suck for the person that ended up losing data because of this.

I'm still relatively new to the field, so I appreciate your input

[northwind]

Hi tt_guy

No problem, I was just trying to warn you not to step into deep waters if you don't know what you're doing.
We see every day the results of DIY-gone-bad, from destroyed pcbs to butchered platters.

Regarding your question, for WDs the PCB needs to have the same number 2060-xxxxxx-xxx. If you know what you're doing, same family is enough (in your case McKinley). Then you need to move adaptives in order for the drive to work. This can be an easy task and a very tricky task as well. Depends.
"Flashing" the PCB is not an option in any other way. For PCBs that do not manipulate external ROM IC's, then expensive equipment is needed to write the ROM.

Again, your drive has physical issues (eg. heads) and needs to be done by someone with experience and know-how. And tools. And clean room.

If you have the above, go for it and good luck

[tt_guy]

I have the tools and the clean area (not entire room).
Just need the drive.