Hi forum.
I have moved this post in the right place.
Sorry for the mess
Best regards
Houseman

I'd have to check but I don't think those two use the same PCB version. But regardless, given that it's an F3 series Seagate drive you can't just cold swap the PCB boards. It will never work.

You need to match the PCB number printed in green in the actual circuitry (not the white sticker though matching that may work too). It'll say something to the effect of: "PCB 100466725 REV C"

If those are the same then you'll just need to transfer the 8 pin ROM chip from the original board to the donor board to make it compatible.

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However I should mention that it's also quite likely that the issue has nothing to do with the PCB.

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Data Medics - Hard Drive, SSD, and RAID Data Recovery Service Company

Thanks pal for the quick reply.
The fact is that the fried hard disk (520) came from a USB caddy that had power issues.
It literally came smoke from the PCB.
Now in order to recover the data (if possible) I need first a valid PCB to communicate to in order to see what is the problem.
But i need the right one.
Maybe also the ROM chip got fried...
What do you think re soldering the ROM to the other PCB (528) and see if it works?
Best regards
Thanks

Like I said, you need to check the PCB version printed in green to see if it's a match. Can you provide a high resolution picture of the smooth side of both PCBs?

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Data Medics - Hard Drive, SSD, and RAID Data Recovery Service Company

Yes, will do it tomorrow when I return back home.
Best regards and thank You pal

Upload a photo of the damaged PCB and I'll show you how to fix it. It will probably cost you nothing and will be safer than trying to move the "ROM".

As for the difference between 520 and 528, "5" denotes the cache size and "2" indicates that the drive has 2 platters.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Hi. Thank You everyone for the kind replies.

I have found a PCB from another same Seagate ST31000520AS and without any hesitation I have mounted it on the fried hard drive.

The curiosity honestly was too big and since I have my fried PCB at home I couldn't wait the weekend to compare the serial and FW rev.
SORRY

I have done via Serial port via USB 2 TTL some Samsung Check before attaching to the PC and the drive responds OK to the normal queries like ^L showing PCB version,spins up, spins down but when I try to query with ‘ command it spins up, it clicks some times and then it shows an interminable list with:
Failed to load overlay 00000004
LED:000000CC FAddr:0028555B
LED:000000CC FAddr:0028555B
LED:000000CC FAddr:0028555B
LED:000000CC FAddr:0028555B
LED:000000CC FAddr:0028555B
until I power off the device and reset the terminal.

Trying to connect via SATA to the PC it is not recognized and neither the BIOS nor MHDD finds it.
I have attached the sound when it is connected via SATA.
It's an mp3 compressed in ZIP (no fake, no virus)
It clicks sometimes (4-5times) at regular interval, then the interval becomes shorter, and then the drive goes to sleep.
What do You think cold be the problem?
wrong PCB?
Head damage?
I promise when I 'll be back home to upload the photo of the fried PCB.
Thank You very much for Your precious and very appreciated help
Best regards

Most likely you didn't swap the ROM chip from the other pcb to this one, so it have wrong adaptives, doesn't find sa on platters and as you observed, doesn't work.
You need to swap ROM from the old/damaged pcb to the new working one !

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Thank you very much!
Will wait for the weekend to have the right PCB in my hands.
I will let you know.
Regards

Here we are.
The two PCB are the same in shape and I think have also the same serial number as seen in the picture. I have taken different pictures of the two PCB. Showing QR code and other prints.
So what next?
Do you to think I need to change the ROM, the one 8-pin chip near the big inductor coil or the other one? (photo attached)
Thank You very much in advance for any help
Steve

This photo shows your "ROM" (aka "BIOS IC"):

http://ep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-144375849714 ... 1157-7.gif

Measure the resistances of the two TVS diodes:

http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/ST ... diodes.jpg

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

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A backup a day keeps DR away.