Hi,

HITACHI Model: HTS543225L9A300 - SATA - 250GB
P/N: 0A57365 MLC: DA2352

No sound, nothing ... doesn't work at all.

I search near the Power - SATA in PCB and found a Diode - D1, a gray block and 2 Fuse - F1 and F2 (one is missing (only the points) and the other is present but infinite ohm).

If you have this disk working and good shape, please tell me values for this components (ohm - Ω).


Or other values, I can check in PCB - Volts or Ohms.

Thanks,
Neuron

Simple search here on Franc and TVS he has tons of information already made up for this that is on his private site under his name. You can go there and find data sheets and what ever else you want on this one. He has millions of posts here on this issue so this one should be easy to find.

_________________
Iorana Haraharaini

Thanks,

Any of you encounter any problem (in your experience) in the rest of PCB to damage this components?

I think (in this disk) the damage ... because the notebook send incorrect volts.


Regards,

Neuron

The fuse is open. Is D1 shorted?

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Thank you for info.

My first post I asked about the fuse, because we have 2 in most PCB and in this one I have F1, F2 write in PCB.
But, one is missing, with a magnify glass I see the pins with solder and i can't see the burn or pieces of fuse.

The other fuse in all scales 200Ω, 2000Ω, 20KΩ, 200KΩ, 2000KΩ .... no Ω value - infinite.

D1 - I can read some Ω. Since I don't have another identical board, I ask your value opinion, or I can connect the power and see the voltages in this part of circuit.

Best regards,

Neuron

The second fuse may not have been implemented.

As for D1, how many ohms is "some" ohms?

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Yes, the second fuse doesn't exist in this PCB and version.

SATA Power (+5 V) -> Fuse (open) -> D1, Brown block and a small block (in parallel)

The disk don't power on because the Fuse don't conduct.


D1 - Cathode (-) Black (from Multim.) thousand Ohm
Anode (+) Red (from Multim.)

Cathode (-) Red (from Multim.) infinite Ohm
Anode (+) Black (from Multim.)




What is your experience and some examples that you encounter?

D1 is damage if a Overvoltage came from SATA Power (Ex. 19 V).

The Fuse(s) are damage .... because overvoltage (microseconds) from SATA Power or a short circuit inside the PCB or in disk?



In your FAQ you write we can repair "...with a wire link or a blob of solder. ..."

Well I would like to put a tiny wire ... can you specify the diameter.
If the disk have a short circuit inside ... I don't damage the power circuit.

Thank you for your comments,


Neuron

An overvoltage from a laptop adapter, when applied to an external drive, usually causes the drive's 12V TVS diode to go short circuit. But that's a different problem.

Since your diode is not shorted, then you could be lucky and it could be just a problem with the fuse. I would bridge the fuse and power up the board on its own. To this end, you could use an external 2.5" USB-IDE adapter.

Alternatively you could replace the fuse with something like the following:

Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A, S = 4A:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/48294.pdf

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Thank fzabkar,

I have several notebooks and SATA - > USB.

My problem is if some part of circuit is short inside.

Any recommendations (insted the fuse Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A, S = 4A:) for the diam. ... the tiny wire?

Thank you for your comments,

Neuron

Sorry, I forgot to answer your question. I would just use the leg of a resistor and trim it to suit.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Yes, but comparing with some large fuse from radios and TV set that give a fuse of 25 ... or 35 A
You comment is : "...with a wire link or a blob of solder. ..."? That's not a fuse ...




My idea is make a fuse with a tiny wire.

Thank you fzabkar,

Neuron

OK, I think I understand you now. You want a "fusible" wire that you can find at home.

If so, then all I can think of is a strand of tinsel wire from a flexible telephone cord or network cable, but such wire is difficult to solder.

Alternatively, you could use a polyswitch or picofuse and connect it between the diode and the +5V pins at the power connector. Just confirm that there is continuity between D1 and the load side of the fuse. You may be able to find these protection devices in an old rechargeable battery pack.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Thankkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk fzabkar,

I can use the pins of missing fuse (parallel to damage fuse).

I have lots of phone and RJ45 and other stuff in Lab.

And lots of fuse ... but none SM

Best regards,

Neuron

Please gurus and masters ... some examples


Thank you for your comments,

Neuron

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I consult your page many times.

If you need more info in this case (IC ...) I can get a deeper analysis and send to add to your web page.



Regards,

Neuron

Any useful information is very welcome, although my web site is probably not the best place for it (it's just a potpourri of disconnected, disorganised "stuff").

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

After power the disk with tiny wire.
One circuit ( PCB ) burned.

Please give advice ( what tests ) we can carry to see if there is a short circuit inside.

I will proceed with the repair.

Thanks

Neuron

This will surely lead to burn the MCU. You will need to replace the entire PCB and transfer NVRAM to donor.

The same in Motherboards ...

Yes I know the procedure U6 - RL66 8Q69W

But my question since the begin ... is ... What is the method ? ... any one to spot the short circuit?

Another Q. read and write the U6 (external device) ... research and disassembly the MCU.

Thanks

Neuron