Hi everyone.
Earlier this week I swapped out my power supply and accidentally used the SATA power cable from the old unit. The PC didn’t turn on until I realized this and replaced it with the correct cable.
Later, I found out that one of my hard drives wasn’t working. It stays cold, does not spin up, does not get detected in BIOS, and different cables/ports did not help. I also tried it in an external USB enclosure which didn’t work either.
After doing some reading around, my understanding is that the PCB’s most likely been damaged by overvoltage. I found a post from here of someone in almost exactly the same situation:
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36343They even more-or-less have the same drive. Theirs is a 6TB Toshiba X300 6TB, mine’s a X300 5TB. Like them, I also have a spare drive of the same model. I tried its PCB on the ‘dead’ drive and it spun up which leads me to believe that the damage is limited to the PCB only. The drive was not recognized though, which I’m assuming to be due to the firmware/bios/controller chips that would need to be transferred.
However, I’m nowhere near an expert so don’t know for sure. From looking at their pics the PCBs are different (notably the lack of IC17). I bought my drives in January last year, around the time that post was made, so maybe the PCB design is newer and has better overvoltage protection? Here’s hoping.
I’ve uploaded an imgur album containing pictures of the board here:
https://imgur.com/a/QFSW9CS Let me know if you would like others.
I’ve also compiled a list of the ICs I could find on the board, along with (what I gathered to the best of my ability) their functions:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharingWould I be correct in thinking that ICs 1, (possibly) 2, 9, 10 (according to one review site this one houses the firmware), 11 and 12 should be transferred over to a donor board in order for it to work? Or should all of the ICs be transferred, just for safe measure? (Of course I wouldn’t attempt that myself and instead take it to a professional electronics repair store)
I’ve also read that there might be some kind of fuse component that might have tripped and replacing/bypassing that could get the PCB working again. Is there anything on the board that looks like that?
I have a small multimeter that I can use to take measurements but would require guidance as I don’t have much experience (read: next to none) dealing with this kind of thing. Here’s a picture of the multimeter and it’s available modes:
https://imgur.com/S6xgmuJ . If you would like me to take a measurement on either the working or faulty board please let me know, including where to place the probes and which mode to use.
I would greatly appreciate any help and advice you have to offer.
Thanks for your time.