First step is to see if your drive spins up or not.

You can remove it and plug it into power.
If it does/ or not... does it make any noise?

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Thanks for fast reply..

Yes, when plug in the power, the motor starts like any normal disk...sounds ok!

Check Hdd in MHDD or Victoria .

You can not make PCB SWAP

Ok rameez, after the checking with MHDD (i was change the drive to master first)
looks that MHDD see the drive like BIOS, noname..:

When i try to give a command says:
ERROR: Drive not responding or operation canceled
Broken drive


I imagine that, all things are different between them, expect the model...not even firmware..but i found a drive with same firmware(i dont know for other specifications) but the price is 5 times more expensive from the price in Greece. With your experience, if i'll buy this drive the pcb swap will work for this problem?

can you post a recording of what it sounds like spinning up? first 20 seconds from power on fine. don't boot to windows again. good accompanying info BTW!

If the drive spins up; it is not likely that the problem is the PCB (there is still a chance though). It seems more likely that there is firmware damage, or that the headstack has failed. Just changing the PCB is probably not going to yield any notable information in this case unless you swap the EEPROM.

I would get it to someone who has, and is familiar with reading oscilloscope readings for hard drives. These readings will give you a good idea on if the headstack is the culprit.

Here you are, i put my mobile inside a glass and above hard disk to record it...




Listen the recorded sound above, i dont know if this noise is the noise of problem...

Guys i really appreciate your help, thanks again!

bad heads or alignment gone out, it tries twice and dies on you. you need a pro

So bad?? If i found a same disk and change the heads? Have any possible chance?

If you have not successfuly done 20+ head swaps, don't even try it, unless data is not important to you.

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dude (sooo american!) I have received hands on training from some of the worlds best DR pro's, and have spent 30K US$ in the past 3 months alone on DR gear related expenses, and I would probably, no wait, certainly, mess that disk up. But hey, go for it! Or send it to me. I'll TRY for free. No guarantees. PM me if you want to give it a shot...........

I agree with Harddrivespecialist; it all depends on how important the data is to you.


If it is, send it to a pro. Headstack replacement on WD drives is not for beginners. You need to practice on many, many WD drives before you are ready to actually recover data from a failed WD.

If the data is of no consequence, but you would like to make the drive work again....warranty.

If the data is of no consequence, and you don't care if you void the warranty, then feel free to mess around and try. The drive's density is low enough that you may get lucky and be able to align it, but I wouldn't count on it.

20+...dont even 1....
If i found model with same DCM, i'll give it a try, most of the times i'm good with "experiments"



Thanks very much for your offer, i think the time is come to learn more things about hard disk technology..i'm ready to start the surgery!!



Russwinters i'm already feel free to mess around and only God knows the final result...


A big THANKS again for your time and the sharing of your knowledge!! Wish me good luck..(im sure that i need it.. )

I forgot, one more question...

If i change both the heads and pcb from new drive to old? The old platters-motor will be compatible with new heads-pcb? I need a lot of study before the beggining of the "experiment"

As long as you match the proper numbers; there will be no problem. No need to change the PCB if the one you have already works. If you change PCB then you must either: flash the eeprom from the old pcb to the new, or solder the eeprom chip from the old pcb to the new. Either way it adds another step. So you would want to avoid this unless it has to be done.

I am warning you one more time that going through with this "experiment" will likely end with your data unrecoverable; just so you can't say i didnt warn you =)


So, if you are going through with this, your first step is to locate a "donor" drive. You will need to match certain things for a successful head match

Model number
Firmware
DCM (6th, and if possible 5th characters)


if you need to match the pcb you will need to first two sets of characters on the pcb code to match (its a long string usually located on a white sticker on the pcb/ connector area)

I wondering if pcb cause head's mailfuction...can this happen?
This pic from my pcb, looks some areas is burned or i'm wrong?



Lol, thanks for the warning dear Russwinters, but the data in the drive have not to do with my work so i can take the risk..i want the data ofcource because this data is videos and photos from holidays, exercises with army when i was soldier etc.



This is my biggest problem..to found a donor drive with same "specifications"
I found only one drive, the seller cant tell me about dcm,pcb code etc, i know only that the firmware is the same, i'm thinking to buy it (price is 250€ with shipping included )
When i bought this drive price was 70€!!!

So i'm wondering what to do, are you sure that the heads is the problem or the pcb causes heads sounds like this?

99% sure it's bad heads, judging from the sounds.

Sean

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try a bit harder with the picture, better light and or macro mode