Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
October 24th, 2011, 6:06
Hi i have an JD503HI F3_1D rev 02, trays not turn
i found :
HD503HI - FW: 1AJ10001 PCB: F3_1D Rev.01
Is compatible ?
October 24th, 2011, 7:00
You mean platters are stuck?
October 24th, 2011, 7:49
hi,
yes, I not hear noise
October 24th, 2011, 10:51
And what do you intend to do with donor hdd?
If platters are stuck, then disk needs to be opened.
If disk needs to be opened, then clean room environment is required AND proper skills are required too.
If the problem is stiction, then a skilled pro can do this for you.
BUT if you do not hear any noise when you power on the disk, then probably pcb is kaputt.
If pcb is gone, then post pictures of your pcb from the component side and we can maybe help you.
But first you need to be clear; when you power on the disk, does it make ANY noise (like burr, beep...)? Or is it completely dead?
October 24th, 2011, 11:05
hi,
ANY noise

in red, I replaced a component that was much heated. (same reference)
My comclusion, pcb is dead, is correct ? or platters are stuck
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October 25th, 2011, 1:18
Your drive has sustained an overvoltage on the +12V input. The damaged component is a 12V TVS diode.
See
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.htmlIf you have a multimeter, then I could help you test the onboard voltages. A cheap digital multimeter should cost around US$10 or less.
BTW, I don't know if a direct board swap will work, but at least you will be able to confirm if the PCB is faulty.
October 25th, 2011, 3:06
hi,
I have a multimeter (semi-professional)
For the test, is it necessary to remove the PCB?
October 25th, 2011, 3:26
It would be better to test the board on its own first.
There are two 4R7 coils near the motor controller chip. Measure the voltages (Vcore & Vio) between ground and each of the coils. Use the plated through-holes below each coil as your test points.
Then measure the voltage (Vneg) at the bottom end of the diode below the 1R2 coil. This point should measure -5V.
I'm not certain which test point is which, but here is my first guess:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD ... ltages.jpgYou could use a screw hole or a SATA ground pin as your 0V reference.
November 2nd, 2011, 5:21
hi,
if i connect this PCB on the supply, it smoke
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November 2nd, 2011, 16:39
First you need to be sure that your power supply is good. Then you can remove the shorted diode with flush cutters (as stated in my FAQ). If there are no other problems, then the drive will work without it, albeit without overvoltage protection on the +12V supply
That said, if the Samsung SDRAM is getting hot, then you have other more serious problems.
November 3rd, 2011, 2:45
I have verify my power supply and it's work perfectly, i've test an other hard drive and with multimeter.
Then you can remove the shorted diode with flush cutters (as stated in my FAQ)--> i don't fond your FAQ

, is it in manuel section ?
i find this : js.list021.cn/view.php?num_iid=13707580923
November 3rd, 2011, 16:30
See Q9:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.htmlBTW, if the diode were shorted, then the power supply would be shutting down, and therefore the SDRAM wouldn't be heating up.
December 7th, 2011, 3:34
i remove one or two diode ?
December 7th, 2011, 3:40
Just remove the one that is shorted, ie the 12V diode.
December 7th, 2011, 4:14
i have remove one diode, but the disk is not find by bios
December 7th, 2011, 4:57
So does it spin up now?
December 7th, 2011, 5:15
yes, disc rotates now

December 7th, 2011, 6:59
ok, after 2 reboot, the hard drive is ok
December 7th, 2011, 7:18
junix wrote:ok, after 2 reboot, the hard drive is ok

Thats good.
Now copy off your data to another drive as this drive no longer has over vaultage protection.
Loki
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