So I was googling for samsung PCB swap, and I saw a post from another somethingawful member who had been referred here.

I been stressing over 4 discs since I moved recently. I took extra special care of them when I packed them for the move;
foam wrap, big-air-bubble-wrap and a quality cardboard box.
Then I packed the box out so it was a nice and tight fit.

None are registering since the move;
I've tried them on 2 diff mobo's, 3 diff PSUs, and diff cables too.

I was looking to retire them soon, since they were long in the tooth.
But obviously, I hadn't gotten around to backing them up and hence my problem.

Samsung, 400, 500, 750 & 750 have all stopped working.

I had a PSU problem before the move, so the discs had been idle since then.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think this may have been the cause.
The 400 has a burn on it. (pic attached below)

The other three look fine in my eyes.

The 500 and 2 x750 are still under Samsung warranty until the middle of next year which gives me time to breathe.
But I want the data off them before I RMA.

S13UJ1KQ244xxx HD753LJ INW 2011-06 100 In warranty
S13UJ1KQ244yyy HD753LJ INW 2011-06 100 In warranty
S0UQJ1FPC03zzz HD501LJ INW 2011-03 100 In warranty

My question is this:
the 750's are still quite widely available, so I'm hoping a straightforward PCB swap will do the trick.
the 500 is not available where I have been looking.

Has anyone had any success using a spinpoint F3 pcb on a spinpoint F1?
Is that even the right course of action?

tia, grateful for any help.

Won't work.

url,

First of all, DROP FAR AWAY the PSU from the first PC where do you have tried out the drives!
Additionally, BlackSt are right, pcb have pre-programmed information is is required for the drive.
Simple pcb swap will not solve your problem.

You need to repair all the pcbs or better to seek for professional help.

I can help as well, if you are interested...

Janos

BlackSt and N.C. are right , you can not simple change the PCB.

you should look for pro help.

_________________
ZeBong
" что случилось в России - останется в России "
" Россия еще раз"

Thanks for the replies, it's appreciated.
Damn!

I already RMA'd the PSU that did the damage, and I can live w/o recovering the data on the 400.
I should have been more clear though; only the 400 has the burn on it, the 500 & 2 x 750's "look" okay.

I have already ordered a 750 of the same type as the ones I have.
I'm guessing it will not cause further issues to try it right?

I figured that the 500 would be the issue since it's the oldest and not generally available.
I replied in this thread for a similar spec 500.

When you say repair the PCB's, have you any idea what is the matter with them?
When you say you can help, can I send on the PCB's to you for repair?

Apologies for the quality of the pics.

Have both HDDs and can recover data even without PCB. If interested drop PM.

yes most pros can recover both without original PCB. Where do you want to ship, Italy, UK, Hungary? you have plenty of choice.

repair as well if you don't want to send it out.

_________________
data recovery service[/b]

thanks for the replies and offers of help, it really is much appreciated.

I've have to take care of a couple of heavy expenses due in the next 2/3 days.
If I could send the PCB's for repairs that would be ideal.

The Data on the HDD's is 9 years of email, databases which have corporate financial information on them that I use for dev purposes, VM's with my banking info and the like.
Thats before photographs, passwords, and all that jazz.

So yeah, ideally, I'd be happiest going a repair route.
Realistically, they're old(ish) discs, and i'll toss them as soon as I've gotten what I need from them.
I need a day or so to run over my expenses and then I'll put PM's to those offering in the thread.

For PCB repair on Trident & co. in case of MCU failure the drive is also needed ... too many variables (that's why simple PCB swap doesn't work...)

Do you have a multimeter?

If so, then measure the resistances of the TVS diodes and zero ohm links near the power connector.

If a diode is shorted, then remove it. If a zero ohm link is open, then replace it with a 2A picofuse or a piece of wire.

If you need more help, feel free to ask. One of us will help you.

heh, judging by those two replies, the short answer is I'm out of my depth.
I could manage a solder, but realistically, everything else in both yours and BlackST's posts went right over my head.

I've emailed networkpc3000 and I think I'm best leaving it in his hands.
As always, thanks for the replies, I'll update as I know more.