So i had two drives for testing both working
2 x WD 80GB PCB 2060-701335-005 REV A

I swopped the ROM from PCB A and Soldered it on to PCB B
now Drive B does not spin up or anything its just dead.
Is there anyway to test the ROM for damage.. im thinking
maybe it got damaged from heat or something in the desolder or resolder process...

so my questions to you my DR Team are:

1. Is there anyway to test a ROM for functionality for a DIY-er
2. If you killed a ROM chip what options is there for DATA RECOVERY

Thanks in Advance guys and gals

wich temperature did you remove the ROM.

for test the ROm you should try to read it in a machine programmer.

if thew rom is killed you have to contact a DR company to rebuild it, and get your data back.

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ZeBong
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I think the temperature was the last problem....
At this point can only check ROM for content with external programmer. If ROM is gone, a DR specialist with the right equipment can rebuild it from the drive.

Can we see a photo of your work?

Did you check the obvious things such as solder shorts between adjacent pins, and correct orientation?

it's no serious problem for this kind of drive ROM can be rebuild. also i can change drives ROM version match with PCB.
for check ROM you can take some cheap programmer(which support ROM chip: 25XXXX)

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Here is a photo of the solder job its not pretty but its my first run so be gentle

I think I see a solder bridge between 2 adjacent pins.

Get some liquid rosin core flux -- along with a needle tip dispenser --- and apply it to the joints to be soldered. Check for shorts and then CLEAN UP your work with flux remover or isopropyl alcohol and a Q-Tip or two.

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If your data is important I would send the drive to a pro. I am probably the closest one to you. Jono-ats is also not far. If data is not important you can experiment with a universal programmer and re-flash the Rom chip.

second pin is touching the other pin.
you can see that.
allso the second pin at the top is touching.


like jono-ats says

try and remove the flux with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush slowly.
then you can see the print clear

why don't use soldering station for this operation. it will more easy to do that.

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In the question, there's the answer.

Maybe someone should add a link to this thread in the diy thread. The seagate in should be added as well.

1) orientation is VERY important. Make sure to take note of the proper orientation before desoldering for the move.


2) Get some better equipment. I recommend using no-clean flux as well. Don't use Radioshack soldering iron. Get a good station with adjustable temperature, and interchangeable tips for different situations (note: Mini wave tip is amaaazing)

ok thanks peeps for all the good positive feed back...

what im gonna do is locate another PCB and try this again with more patience and precision....

I have a PCB 2060-701335-003 REV B i think i read somewhere on this forum the last 3 Digits and Revision number doesnt matter, if thats correct can someone confirm before i go on my desoldering rampage

Thanks
will keep everyone updated on my progress

ps what a good soldering iron to get and what wattage should i be looking at?

All this is gonna cost you a lot more than sending the drive for repair....
Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm not sure the ROM will survive another attempt, according to what you have done till now. Anyway...

As long as advice is given, DIY will be attempted. For this case,i agree with BlackST, more attempts will ruin ROM and only advice then will be to learn from your mistake...

the data is not important ... and the drives are just some spares we had in the office from previous hdd upgrades.... i guess this is the only way i can get better or good... did you guys ruin stuff before you got good.. that being said i wud never do this on a clients hdd.. unless i got good

No I didn't. I was trained (at my expenses) before.

where did you train and how much did it cost you? also how long was the training?

In these drives the last 3 digits do matter so you need to find the exact pcb .