After last power outage, my computer wouldn't start anymore (power supply not coming on). I replaced my power supply (most frequent failure), but that didn't help. After unplugging components by components, I finally found out that my hard drive was the cause. More info on the drive (probably more than needed):
PN: 0A35155
SN: PBH2LSNF
MLC: BA2772
MODEL: HDS721010KLA330

On the PCB, I have a nice little sticker:
0A29689
BA2214_
Mh0848
40W6
And on the silk screen, 44XS

I'm trying to recover my data, but I find so many sources of different informations, varying from freezing the drive to paying 2k$ for pro recovery.

More reasonably, I have been looking at the "pcb swap" option, which seemed more reasonable, and more suitable for me. Reading this forum (this post, specifically), I also found the "TVS diodes" options interesting.

From my tests, I found that the resistance between +12V and GND was 9.8k and was the same when measure taken reversed, which sounded reasonable. From my "not hd specialist" point of view, that points to motor/head power electronics intact. On the other hand, my 5V shows 0 ohm, forward or reversed measure. That would greatly support the TVS diode burnt. Considering the circumstances of death, it could sound like good assumption. What is your opinion on the matter? (finding a decent soldering gun to do the job will require some effort, which explains why I want to double check.. otherwise I'd just try). Also, are there any change that could make the problem worse? Also, how do you identify the TVS diodes? I see 4 of them (d1 through d4), with d3 and d4 close to the power source and significantly bigger than d1 and d2.

As far as PCB swap goes, do you have any directive? I couldn't find anything consistent across the many posts I read, other than company seem to be trying to make it as chaotic as they can. Which numbers must I match? Will I need to swap the NVRAM, as some site suggest?

I got some help from someone in PMs. All credit goes to him, but I will not disclose his identify to respect his choice of answering in private.
"""
To confirm which diode is shorted, measure it.

If this is a photo of your board ...

http://blog.320-8080.ru/wp-content/hitachi_0a35155_elcri_board.jpg
http://images.sanhaostreet.com/News//2009/1/20090113082356614.jpg

... then the shorted diode would be D4.

D3 is the 12V TVS diode.

D1 appears to be part of a switchmode regulator, possibly the flywheel diode. It is not a TVS.

Not sure about D2, but it is also not a TVS.

Just remove D4 by snipping its pins close to the bodt with flush cutters.

For continued protection, you can replace it with an SMAJ5.0A from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.

Good luck.
"""

So I ended up prying out D4 (5V was short), and tested the drive again. 5V was not short anymore. Plugging it back, it was detected by the BIOS again, OS picked it up, and now I'm backing up.

Although the replacement part could be an option, I'll simply retire the drive... I'll sleep better at night that way

Thanks to HDDGuru

Nice, good result!

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