The day before yesterday my main storage drive stopped working without warning. There are three drives in my computer - the main (C), a secondary storage drive (E, mostly for music, etc) and this main storage drive (the drive previously known as "F"). I put the computer into stand-by mode, came back a couple hours later and as far as the computer could tell, there were only C and E. Having a reasoned conversation with the computer and asking it nicely to let me talk to F produced no change.

F doesn't appear in BIOS or in Disk Management. It doesn't make any clicking noises or anything of that nature. I've swapped out SATA and power cables and even tried it on another SATA slot just in case the slot on my motherboard was the issue. Still dead, no cookie.

After reading about data recovery, I simply don't have the money for a professional recovery right now, so I've been considering a PCB swap as detailed in a couple of websites and youtube videos. However, there is always a bit of warning that says it's unlikely to work with the newer drives, although I'm unsure why. I'm also unsure if my drive counts as a "newer" drive.

Info about my drive:
Western Digital Caviar SE16, 250g
Model: WD2500KS-MJB0
DCM: DSCHYT2AA
Manufacture date: May 25, 2006

Not sure if it matters, but I'm still clinging to an old Windows XP Pro OS.

I've found a possible replacement with the name full model number, although the manufacture date is a month later and only the first 3 characters of the DCM matches.

What I'd like to know, if anyone can help is:
1. Is a PCB swap even possible on my model?
2. Do the last six characters of the DCM matter for a PCB swap?
3. What are my odds of doing worse damage by attempting a PCB swap?
4. Has anyone had success doing a PCB swap on this or a similar model?

I'm not planning on opening up and disturbing the platters, so hopefully if the PCB swap doesn't work I can still attempt to save up money for a professional recovery later.

Any input is appreciated.

There is a VERY sight chance it will work as-is, but there is close to 100% chance it will work of you transplant the ROM -- assuming that you have diagnosed the problem correctly.

You should not damage anything just trying.

_________________
http://www.datasaversllc.com

1, you can swap PCB for try. but you had to transfer original ROM to good PCB.
2,no
3,depend your skill
4,many success case. but you had to confirm it's PCB problem before action.
does your spin up now??

_________________
data recovery service[/b]

Thank you for the responses.

I'm unsure how to know for certain if it's spinning or not without opening it up to the platter level, which I don't want to do. When it's plugged in and provided power, it makes no sound I can discern and doesn't get warm. To me, that indicates that it isn't spinning, but I confess I'm far from an expert at figuring this out.

I'm reading up now on the ROM transfer you've both mentioned.

Is this your board?
http://www.ioffer.com/img/item/124/401/ ... IDcWt9.jpg

If so, then U12 is the serial EEPROM. It stores unique drive specific calibration data.

That is the board.

So, an update. After waiting for the replacement and locating the proper size torx I attempted the straight PCB swap this morning.

The old PCB and the replacement I'd found looked pretty much identical, except that when I peeled the protective foam off my old one there were several scorch marks over some of the electronics. There were no such scorch marks on the slightly used replacement.

After the swap, I plugged my old drive with the new PCB in and booted up. Upon boot there were two clicking noises and then a long pause and then two clicking noises again. There was another long pause and then a third set of clicking noises. The computer seemed hang trying to enter Windows mode and when the clicking noise sounded again, I forced a reboot. This time, I entered into bios after another click and it seemed that BIOS did recognize the drive, but it wouldn't let me interact with it.

Obviously, my concern is that the clicking noise is the head problem I didn't want it to be all along that requires opening the drive up to the platter level (something I'm not going to attempt on my own), and I don't want to experiment further and cause damage to the platters.

Before I abandon all hope and put the drive away in the unlikely event I can save up for professional data recovery services, can anyone tell me if the clicking noise could be caused by anything that would be solved by the ROM swap?

Finally, does anyone know a reputable company that provides data recovery / hard drive repair of this sort for something an average person could afford to pay?

Thank you.

Pro intervention in this case doesn't cost the world. There are reputable members of this forum almost everywhere in the USA and luckily you have UPS surface at low cost. Post your location so it is possible to find the nearest pro.

I'm in the US - South East.

Purchase a replacement board and then take both boards to your local TV/AV repair guru. A junior tech with steady hands and good eyesight should be able to swap the EEPROM for you. With the money you save, you can then buy a backup drive.

See this thread:
http://www.deadharddrive.com/forums/vie ... =9531#9531

The OP writes that s/he "took the board to an electronics repair store and for $20 the ROM chip was swapped. "

Alternatively, you could send it to someone like jono-ats from earlier in the thread. He seems to be local to you and should be able to take care of it reasonably

_________________
You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

Totally agree. Pro intervention = accurate diagnose and total safety for your data (I see some odd things in this case). Other valuable members of this forum are in LA, FL, etc. - use search function for members.

I agree with BlackST on this one. Being an electronic geek is fine but some advise is not for beginners. I know if you find a good member here in the US they will do this for you at a very reasonable cost and then the money you paid for your replacement board will not go up in smoke. You are better off listing to one of us on this one we do it for a living. If you follow the electronic geek he even states to you he is not a DR person. Your data your choice

_________________
Iorana Haraharaini

being a PRO and running a business is much better.

I hate TV/AV repair guru's. Money grabbing fools. I wonder if there is a forum for people who need to repair their own TV? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

_________________
All went well until I plugged the drive in.

.

_________________
All went well until I plugged the drive in.

Actually I repaired my own TV for 20 USD and saved myself over 600 USD (their quote fo repair)... Which is MORE than a data recovery in most cases.............................................................

sorry OF TOPIC....

_________________
All went well until I plugged the drive in.

Ever heard of Usenet?

Ask your questions at the sci.electronics.repair newsgroup. We help everyone, pro and novice alike.

Otherwise, teach yourself ... for free:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html

You don't need to be a "geek" to swap a PCB. You can teach a chimpanzee to do that.

As for soldering, that's something that TV/AV gurus do every day, unlike DR persons who do most of their work from behind a keyboard. In fact I've suggested that the OP engage a pro, if soldering is a concern. I would have thought that would make you happy. :?

As for not being a DR guy, that's true, but then I'm not suggesting that the OP do some specialised DR work, like head stack replacement.

BTW, I used to be a DR guy, of sorts, before I retired. I know all about improvisation, running your own business, making your own tools, developing your own methods, even writing your own diagnostics and data recovery routines, for both disc and tape. And that was before the Internet, when you actually had to rely on paper documentation, and ring around on the telephone looking for it. There were no off-the-shelf software tools like there are today. You people have it too easy. :mrgreen:

So please, don't patronise me. I'm not some easily intimidated novice, terrified of losing his digital life. They're easy prey. :mrgreen:

I have one , still waiting for an answer from "the sites/net from "Sony enthusiasts", "Sony experts", "Sony owners", "Sony whateveryouwant" and so-called experts :

Sony SLV-415 (common VHS video recorder) out of tracking after head replacement (another brilliant result of the DIY...)

This set drove crazy several techs that all gave up (no one was Sony ASC). The owner posted a lot of Q on different forums and sites, receiving back nothing or copy-paste stuff that never worked including "measure this and that with multimeter"... After changing a lot of parts in working order and money spent by the owner..... what was the REAL problem ?

A little off topic but symptomatic.

Franc you missed "Actually I repaired my own TV for 20 USD and saved myself over 600 USD
" ;o)

And in reality you had it easier in the old days with "paper documentation" which was easy to come by if you knew where to look and of course massive discrete components .Now HDD companies give you no information, 15-20 years ago you could order the Schematics for Rodime/Miniscribe etc.

Yes I was using Usenet many many years ago before HTTP

Anyway TV/AV "Guru's" as you like to call them are avaricious and will do anything for money

_________________
All went well until I plugged the drive in.