Hi,
I've done the dreaded 3.5 to 2.5 adapter upside down trick. A component on the drive flashed inside (hoping it is a fuse?). I 'll try and post a pic. Anyone know where I should be looking for either a fuse...or another drive / pcb?

Thanks

what is this 'trick' ?

If you have plugged your 2.5" IDE connector upside down I don't think that you will have popped a fuse. You have sent 5 volts down DD7 and DD8 and likely killed the PCB.

Parts are your best bet if you need that drive to work again (to recover your data), if not and it is completely dead now I would just replace it.

The 'trick' being putting the adapter around the wrong way (pin out should never allow it, but it does), so that 5v now goes to the wrong pin...anyway.

Here's a pic of the PCB. I'm guessing the fuse is as labeled at 'N' (anyone know the value?)

Secondly I discovered that there is no continuity (open circuit) on the large component labeled with the red arrow, or is it really low and beyond the measuring ability of my multimeter?

Any help would be great.

The fuse is indeed marked N, but it is not going to have popped because you sent power down the other side of the interface. If you have a multimeter (or ohmmeter) you can check if it is ok surely?

The second component you have circled is the drive's drop sensor - this is not your issue.

I thought the same, BUT...the fuse is blown!! However, I don't believe that this is all that died. Something at that stop sensor end of the drive flashed when I plugged it in (maybe a small cap or something..there's only 1000 of them .

PCB swap not an easy fix either then? (someone is selling a heap of the Fujitsu PCB's on Ebay?)

Seeing the 'schematics' pcb is probably FUBAR. If hda is ok may be 'relatively' easy, otherwise no.

Here's the HDD label. How much involved in swapping the PCB?

Simple swap doesn't work. And you should know if the rest is OK before attempting otherwise there's the chance to kill the new PCB also. This is the best advice I can give. Otherwise, seek for professional help (with the proper tools the diagnose takes a little time).

The scenarion what i can imagine:

The reverse connected power damaged the MCU, i think it is shorted, the fuse is OK at this point.
Than the drive was connected in the right direction, and the next powerup blown the fuse because the dead MCU makes overcurrent.

tunzafun001, you can replace the fuse with any of 1A values for example, but i am 99% sure it is useless, because the damaged MCU will blown it again.
Additionally a simple pcb swap will not solve your problem, because this drive have unique fw part programmed in the pcb.

Seek for professional help, if you need your data....

Janos

The fuse labelled "N" is rated at 2 amps.

Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A, S = 4A:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/48294.pdf

FYI, here are datasheets for Murata ceramic shock sensors:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/58860.pdf
http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/M ... 00LD-R.pdf

The IC near the shock sensor appears to be the spindle motor and VCM controller. I can't understand why a spark would have occurred in this area, though.

Can you post the part number of the 8-pin chip to the right of the Marvell MCU? I suspect it may be a serial EEPROM. If so, then you will probably need to transfer this chip from patient to donor.

Guess what...I just tried replacing the fuse...AND IT WORKS!!!

Well, I have only turned it on and it booted to windows, but so far so good!

Good work Fujitsu. I don't know how or why 5v going down a totally different track blew the fuse, but it did.

** I have now placed a fuse link on my 2.5 to 3.5 adapter (scratched off some track and put in the fuse), so that this will blow first in the future if the 5V is grounded incorrectly).

Might be worth making a sticky note in the forum, as I have read I'm the 3rd person this week to stuff up using the adapter.

Thanks to all with your help.

This also means your the third person this week who does not make regular backups....

I saw blown fuses like this many times. In 90% replacing them was the solution.
Soldering a little wire also works fine, but for testing you need a current-limited power supply, e.g. an USB adapter.