Hi Everyone,

im new to the forum but i have read several posts to try and solve my HDD problem.

I have a WD2500KS-00MJB0 that stopped working one day. It would no longer come up in my list of drives.
I took the PCB off and some of the big chips had burn marks on them that stained the little foam.

I then ordered a PCB off ebay from the same drive. It took forever to get here and this is what the drive does now.

Replacement board installed with no changes
- drive spins for a second then clicks 5-6 times like a solenoid sound
- slows down, then spins up again clicks 2 times in a few sequences
- then it stops spinning

Replacement board with ROM from original board
- drive acts the same as above

Did i do something wrong in swapping the ROM chip because it still has the same problem after the swap.

I have read in some posts that there is a way to test the board as well, does anyone have a guide on that?

I also noted that the replacement board had the same part numbers but a diode looking component in position MH4 - SK1 was missing on the replacement board (mine had the component there). I tried installing that too and it would make like a rapid beeping sound, then move to the loud clicking.

As a side note, i dont really care about the drive, i just want my info off of it and then its scrap. I just have a lot of my research and pictures on there and i dont want this clicking to damage the info on the drive as well. If anyone has any extreme suggestions i am open to that as well as long as it gets the info out of the drive.

Info about my drive
MDL: wd2500ks-00mjb0 WD Caviar SE16
DATE: 20 FEB 2007
DCM: HBCANT2AAN

Original Board Sticker: 2061-701335-C00 AN XC 2W21 2EV2 7 0003330 7333
part number: 2060-701335-005 REV A


Replacement board:
Part number: 2060-701335-005 REV A
I/C: 88i6889-TFJ1

Thanks in advance for your help.

Dead heads/preamp

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You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

is there a way to fix that?

i found a drive similar to mine (same model/size) but the DCM is different and its made 8 months later than mine.

Would it be possible to swap internals or something just so the data can be extracted ?

Thanks for the fast reply.

By a lab, yes

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You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

Not at home.

so what would be the next step ?

Should i buy the working one and get a shop to swap spindles + internals? Im not an expert in this stuff but the worst i could do is try to get it fixed.

But at least the board is ok then? I guess whatever damaged it hit the heads too?

IMO anywhere that is competent to handle this would be able to source their own part.

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You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

im gonna take it to a shop to get an estimate this afternoon. I cant even recall the exact stuff i have on the HDD so the loss doesnt seem to big right now until i need something

thanks for the info everyone

I guess, a simple computer shop can't handle the WD's best joke, the head alignment problem...

You will need professional help instead of "shop".

Janos

That happens when the PCB is wrong for the drive.
You must tell us the PCB model number.
It's on the board itself. On a white label
or elsewhere.

i thought thats what that was

my original has a white sticker on the plastic part that has the plug

The replacement board does not have that white sticker

This is what mine had on that white sticker: 2061-701335-C00 AN XC 2W21 2EV2 7 0003330 7333

BTW someone suggested i try the freezer trick to get past the ticking of the heads perhaps? The shop i took it to wanted 800$ to swap internals, i need my info but not that badly or at least before i try other methods first. if someone could help out i dont mind buying other boards etc.

But if there is some way to properly fix this then i would rather go that route. I just need it to run long enough to extract the info off of it.

NO! NOT the freezer. It will warp everything metal.
That only works in a case of stuck heads.

In this case, it's possible a PCB swap will work, but like I said, see what Hard Disk Sentinel says about the drive.

Often, too often, this type of failure is a head-stack-assembly wolf in sheep's clothing.

At any case, whatever the issue, head-stack swap or no, we can do it for $500.
PM me, if you want us to check if we have parts.

i just ordered one more PCB board since im a total tool and ordered the wrong one

My original had the following main controller IC: 88i6545-TFJ1 HDD motor combo: L6283 1.3
The replacement had a main controller IC: 88i6889-TFJ1 HDD motor combo: L6283 1.3

Seeing how the two main IC part numbers are different they have different properties and memory cache values as well.

Would that be that big of a difference to cause the clicking if the main IC was different? All the other parts are identical.

I think thats what caused the problem. Im waiting on the replacement and i will add the new ROM chip on the board as well. If that doesnt work i will just go with your option and take it from there. The replacement was only $40 anyways.

Ill try to keep this thread updated, shipping will take 3 weeks again Thankfully my thesis is due in 6 months so i have some time before then.

Thanks again everyone, im glad its not the heads i HOPE

hang on . . . !
you need to rule out the PCB - anyway that PCB is tough as hell to find
2061-701335-C00

Install Hard Disk Sentinel Demo and tell me what it says about the HD
If it has a "?" plus "Disk Controller not supplying information etc."
Then it's PCB.

Otherwise it's head-stack assembly or SA, which both would cost $500.

When you say that the "replacement board installed with no changes", do you mean that the original board allowed the drive to spin up, but with clicking sounds?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.