I have a problem:

2 days ago, I used a SATA to USB converter with the power supply, and connected the SATA power connector to the laptop hard drive SATA power connector.

After few seconds, I noticed that the drive would not spin up, therefore, I decided to put back the laptop hard drive back to the laptop, and now the laptop hard drive is not being detected.

All the components on the circuit board are very small, and very little of them at all, so it's impossible to find the 12V TVS capacitor/s (if any do exist). 3 microchips, and very few components.

Therefore, after doing lots of research on google, I was able to find almost the same exact PCB circuit board model # on eBay for about $45 total with shipping and tax, which I already purchased. It was the only one that I could find at all that had the same "exact" part no, and circuit board #.

Therefore, I noticed from the eBay pictures that the main chip # is a little different, but the rest one's are the same. Will the swap work, or do I need to do something else to make the swap work, and what to swap (if possible), also, is it possible to repair the original circuit board somehow or not?

Also, I noticed that there is an 8 pin EEPROM chip on the circuit board. Is this what I need to swap from the original circuit board to the replacement circuit board? Also, how would I go about doing this without failure, what items do I need to successfully do this operation, and if I would not be able to do this, who can I find online that would do this for a small fee?

I really need this laptop hard drive recovered, because it has all my college documents, and "all" my login account information, including e-mail, etc., along with all my documents data.





I underestimated the backup time(s), and my last backup is over 2 months old, and there is no latest data - thus, making the backup data from over 2 months useless. I was planning to backup everything within a few days of the day when the circuit board became the problem, but it is too late now. And I was quotes $300 - $1700 for about 20-30gb recovery. They are not sure yet exactly, because they would have to analyze the drive for 24 hours.

Also, here's a link to a post about similar hard drive with lots of big circuit board picture links:

http://www.techsupportforum.com/hardwar ... -fuse.html

Could the very tiny capacitor with the "Z" marked on top be the problem?? Because when I measured the capacitor with a digital multimeter, it did not respond. If yes, then with which capacitor can I replace it? And where can I buy it?

Please help me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

The "Z" component is actually a 2 amp fuse. The marking is in fact an "N". If you wish to replace it, see the following datasheet.

Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A, S = 4A:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/48294.pdf

Raptor_pa is a very knowledgeable and helpful data recovery professional. I would ask him for his opinion. But first I would take his advice and measure the resistance between either side of the fuse and ground. You can use the SATA power connector's ground pins as your reference.

I strongly suggest you measure the output voltages of your SATA to USB adapter. BTW, your drive uses the +5V supply, not the +12V.

Also, I cannot see any EEPROM in the photos. I expect that the EEPROM may be internal to the Marvell 88i6737-TFJ1 MCU.

1. I will then replace the fuse, because I cannot really afford data recovery services.

2. I will piurchase the correct fuse from either Farnel, Mouser, or Digikey.

3. Also, I measured the resistence for that diode / capacitor, and it showed absolutely nothing - did not even respond, compared to other capacitors. So I guess this is the one that fried.

4. Since the USB to SATA converter adapter had a laptop IDE connector and a SATA connector, I thought that I would need to use SATA power connector, to get the drive to work, but I was dead wrong, this coverter cable adapter was either intended for SATA 3.5" drives, or IDE 2.5" drives, without any power connector use, so I guess that is how I fried my SATA circuit board for the 2.5" laptop drive.

5. The SATA power connector is not intended for the hard drive, I should have purchased an external 2.5" laptop hard drive case, and used that instead, which is what I will purchase today, and use to backup all the files from this laptop drive, if I will be able to fix the circuit board problem.

6. Also, yes, there is an 8 pin (4 on each side) rom / ... chip that exists on the board - it's in the middle top of the back of the circuit board - where all the chips and capacitors are wired, and just above the "AR7" resistor / ... - Please see picture below (when the image is loading - you should see the very small chip - 8 wires total).

Image link: http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3316/p1010777bon.jpg

Thank you very much.

Is the link to the item below the same exact item that I need to replace the fried fuse on the laptop hard drive (just to make sure)?

Link: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 0437002.WR

Mouser.com part #: 576-0437002.WR

Also, would it work it I just soldered the 2 connections, or it will work, but I would be at a great risk or burning more stuff on the circuit board?

Thank you very much.

I purchased a SATA 2.5" external USB hard drive case today, and tried to solder the connection together where the N fuse was, then put it into the external drive case, then connected the USB cable, and no go. The drive will not spin.

Looks like its dead or the circuit board is fried.

I have few other options though, nearby Fry's Electronics said it would cost about $150 for the data recovery if they recover the data, if not, they charge $40 to brute force try to recover the data. The same goes for my other desktop 3.5" WD 750GB hard drive.

Also DriveSavers.com (the one that is best rated for recovery), said it could cost me somewhere between $700 and $2,700. That is way too expensive. I am not Bill Gates to afford such service.

And about Fry's Electronics data recovery, I cannot really afford $150, is there really another way?? - Or I am stock with that only other option.

Without the data, I am afraid I might fall back in college.

So many documents, e-mails, software backup, everything is lost.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

You have to understand once for all that there are some problems that need pro intervention especially if data is important. REFER TO ONE OF THE REPUTABLE PROS of this forum in your area and find a solution. Do one drive at a time for example. BTW, when did the problem start (date) ? The pictures from the wd are 3 months and more older.

The problems started I think on Wednesday of last week (09-15-2010).

The pictures are not from my hard drive, they are just the pictures of the hard drive of the same model. I do not own a digital camera, so I just found a post with the same exact model hard drive.

Also, in about a month (when I will have enough money), I will probably pay Fry's Electronics $150 to do hard drive recovery, if there is no other way.

I also ordered the same exact PCB circuit board replacement for this hard drive, but I do not yet know if it will be 100% compatible, or if I will need to swap the 8 wire EEPROM chip from the original circuit board. If I will have to do that, then I might probably give the replacement board to Fry's Electronics, and see if they can swap the EEPROM chip if there would be no other way to recover data.

Thank you very much.

still don't get why don't you ask someone else...

Match this on the donor drive you order: Firmware 0080890B and CA26344-B32104BA

With regards to the fuse, check the datasheet for the correct dimensions, otherwise the electrical specs appear to be OK:
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_ ... se_437.pdf

The part that you think is an EEPROM is in fact part of a DC-DC converter. Without seeing the number on the component, I believe it may be a FETKY. The 4R7 components are inductors. In short, leave this part alone.

What raptor_pa was asking in the other thread was for the OP to measure the resistance between the fuse and a ground point on the PCB, or a ground pin in the SATA connector.

Sorry to say, but I think you may have reached a dead end as far as DIY goes. You may be lucky with a replacement board, though.

I've got some good news as long as some bad news.

The bad news first:

After carefully inspecting the PCB board wiring that I have done with butane soldering iron, I have figured out why the wiring did not work: I think I soldered another wire, which was by the side, because wiring was not so easy.

Now the GOOD news:

After I paid around $45 for the replacement board of the same circuit board PN #, even though some #'s on the chips were different, and the board had different serial, and date build #, along with some other little differences.

Note: The $45 was only for the replacement circuit board, and nothing else.

I took the original circuit board off, and replaced it with the replacement circuit board which I have just received today about an hour ago by USPS, and then put the tiny screws all back, and put the drive into a brand new 2.5" external hard drive case, which I purchased at Fry's Electronics few days ago for around $9.99; then after I plugged in the SATA data connector, the drive spinned up and then after few seconds my drive letter where all my files were on appeared. All my files were recoverable without any problems at all.

I am extremely happy!! Never felt so good!

Also, this forum is one of the best websites and forum's that I have ever found online. Everyone has been so knowledgeable and nice, with lots of help provided.

Now I just saved $105, because I would not have to pay Fry's Electronics $150, then there is no guarantee they would have recovered my around 30gb, and also, they could have made copies of my documents, and all the rest files, which is another reason why I did not want to pay anyone for the data recovery service.

Also:

I have already purchased an external 2.5" laptop 500GB backup drive, from Fry's Electronics few days ago (the original price was $89.99 - but it was on sale, so I paid $59.99 + tax -- very good deal, because about 6 months ago, on sale, I was able to get 250gb hard drive for the same exact price - $59.99 -- now I get double the storage).

And now, I will backup all my most updated date 2 times a week, and all the data 1 times a month to an external hard drive (3.5" SATA drive, which I have not purchased yet), and to black DVD+R disks. Because I now know how much my data can cost me, if I were to experience serious data failure / loss in the future. Now I will not take data recovery for granted.

And also, I already purchased another laptop hard drive, and this one I will just sell, to make sure no similar failure happens in the future. Also, I will try to sell it for around the same price I purchased the PCB circuit board replacement for, so that I could get my money back (i.e. selling circuit board replacement with the original hard drive, and external hard drive case for $50 ...).

About the 750GB WD SATA hard drive:

Once the replacement diode's will come by mail (paid $20 total with shipping - on mouser.com), then I will replace the original fried diode's with the butane soldering iron, and then purchase an external 3.5" hard drive case (not some cheap USB to SATA converter cable), and backup all my data to my other hard drive, until I will get some extra money to purchase another brand new SATA 3.5" hard drive (either 500gb or 750gb), just in-case, because I do not want to trust the 3.5" desktop hard drive anymore either.

Thank you very much.

I'm very happy for you. However, you were very lucky.

Can I ask where did you purchase the pcb board for that model. I have the same issue my drive will not spin up. I've been looking to purchase a board.
Model: MHY2160BH
CA26344-B32104BA

Thanks

user_2020,
Can I ask where did you purchase the pcb board for that model. I have the same issue my drive will not spin up. I've been looking to purchase a board.
Model: MHY2160BH
CA26344-B32104BA

Thanks

bxdukes, check the fuse.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.