We would like to now about yoy experiment regarding the WD PCB rules

I have two PCB Swaps I'm doing next Tuesday.

One was of two identical drives WD800JS-75LSA0 -
Freak'n PCB versions were different (version A vs B).
U12 went over fine but just get the few clicks and then it stops
spinning. So will switch to PCB version A next.

The other one has clear burn marks on the same PCB model.
I've not checked the chips out yet but if they are the same
I'll switch the ROM (U12) from the burned to the healthy board.

Weird thing is the boards come from WD2500 (250GB) and a WD800 (80GB)
Yet they should be the same so long as the chips are.

Its all in the ROM... Or is it?

Most likely preamp chip is bad.

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In the end, i found that repairing the damaged PCB is the simplest way to get the data back from WD disks with a damaged PCB. Replace any damaged components or chips from a very similar board with the same individual components. This requires skill and experience with soldering and good soldering tips and a steady hand but with practice i have been able to fix about 20 WD PCBs with burnt motor controller chips and other chips with i did not dare to touch in the past. Practice and when you are ready, give it a shot (not on your customers disk).

Repairing SMT stuff isn't easy unless you've got good soldering skills. As mentioned in an earlier reply and from my experience, the only important criteria for a PCB swap on a WD drive is to match the PCB revision printed on the board, eg. 2060-001293-000 REV A. All the WD PCB swaps I've done so far have worked after swapping the faulty PCB out with a matching revision board and moving over the EEPROM. My first ever U12 swap worked 100% and I'd never really done anything like it before and it didn't find it particularly difficult.

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Hi guys,

I have a WD1200 that does not power up. I think the PCB was damaged from static...

What are the chances a pcb from a WD1600 with the same last 6 model number characters and the same board number will work for the WD1200 if I also swap the firmware chip?

WD1200JB - 00GVA0 w/ PCB 2060-001265-001 REV 1 (broken)
WD1600JB - 00GVA0 w/ PCB 2060-001265-001 REV 1

Worth a try at least?

Thank you,
William

Seems OK to me:
http://www.hdd-parts.com/10001266.html

Note that the freight cost is FREE to the USA and Canada, but $0 everywhere else. :?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

PCB will be OK with ROM swap

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Hi, Everyone. I'm new to this issue and need you help. My Wd15000ADFD with only data stopped working. Mac pro refuse to boot, blue screen, nothing else. Took the WD out and mac starts fine. Turned out the 5v rail PCB is short to ground. No visible damage to the component. D3 D4 is Ok. Please help.

novoroshollywood, can you upload a detailed photo of the component side?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Hi fzabkar. Thanks for response. Here is the link to image of PCB. http://ionidi.com/ebay/PCB.jpg

The board was perfect before my intervention. Anyway all components work. The D4 D3 is The 5v short to ground. D4 28omhs between the legs. OK. Sorry for mess I did but I'll try to do my best. Regards,
Novoroshollywood

D3 and D4 are Schottky diodes, not TVS diodes. They are part of the onboard DC-DC converters. I don't know why D4 measures so low, but it most probably reflects the resistance of the components that are attached to it.

I can't see clearly what is going on near the SATA power connector, but there appear to be two fusible zero ohm resistors, R11 and R27. U2 looks like it may be connected to the +5V supply. Can you tell us its markings?

Otherwise, if you need to replace the board, then I expect you will need to transfer the chip at U12 to your donor. Your supplier should be able to do this for you, if necessary. Typical charges are US$10 - $20. Can you tell us its markings also?

BTW, by "intervention", do you mean that you overvolted the +5V supply?

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U2 reads B122 I tried B122 or i3122 can't find information what it is. Also need information about Q3 and Q11 they are the same .3BAND . By intervention I meant my soldering skills. First I took the D3 out of board then Q11 and 28ohms reading still there. I put it back and used not SATA power but another one on the board (with right polarity and voltage) the resistor R120 (R12) start smoking. I shout the power immediately. The U12 chip is ATMEL 628 25F1024AN SU27 Thanks for help. Any idea what else might be wrong. Regards

U12 is a serial flash memory. The "628" marking is probably a YWW (Year / Week) date code.

AT25F1024, SPI Serial Memory, Atmel, 2.7V - 3.6V, 1Mbit (131,072 x :
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod ... oc1440.pdf

R120 has (had?) a value of 0.12 ohms. It appears to be a current sense resistor that is associated with the DC-DC converter consisting of L5, Q3, D4, and C57. I'm guessing that this converter could be supplying -5V to the 20-pin preamp connector, J1.

Q3 and Q11 are probably P-channel MOSFETs. They would probably be switching the +5V supply to their respective inductors, L5 and L2/L3. The faulty DC-DC converter is probably using a "polarity inverting buck-boost" topology:

http://i.cmpnet.com/powermanagementdesi ... ure_1a.jpg

The short circuit on the +5V rail would be consistent with a MOSFET that has a drain-to-source short.

The other DC-DC converter is a positive regulator and uses a "buck" topology. It comprises Q11, D3, L2, L3, C34, C38. The two resistors at R20 would be the current sensors.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

The following device may fit the bill for Q3 and Q11:

Si1413EDH, SOT-363, BA marking code, Vishay, P-Channel MOSFET, -20V, -2A:
http://www.vishay.com/docs/71396/si1413ed.pdf
http://www.s-manuals.com/smd-files/pdf/ ... 3edh_v.pdf

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Wow, lots of information. Thanks a lot, let see what I can do with it. I'll keep you informed and Thanks again for your time and help.
Regards, Novoroshollywood

Hi, the Q3 MOSFET has drain-to- source short. I took it out and and no more short in +5 volt rail. I'll replace Q3 and will replace the R120 in case. It reads 0.2ohms but just to be sure. Is a R120 1watt current sense resistor or less? Thanks in advance.

Sorry for my late reply. I've had a forced leave of absence.

Anyway, R120 seems too small to be a 1W resistor. If we assume that the current drawn from the supply is much less than 1A, then the power dissipated by the resistor would be much less than 0.12W (P = I^2 x R). At 0.5A the power would be 30mW.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Hi William, did you make that work? Did you have to swap the chip also? I'm in a similar situation, waiting for the arrival of another HDD with completely matching PCB # and sticker #. Thanks!

For WD PCB swap, the donor PCB should have the same board number as the damaged one. The board number is not the one on the white lable. It is etched on the boards. Begin with 2060-.

Most HDD boards have the BIOS (ROM or NVRAM chip) which includes the unique data to access the HDD system area. If the BIOS information is not compatible with your HDD, there is no way to read the HDD's data. Because of this, we should use the original PCB's BIOS when we swap PCB.

BIOS is the 8pins (4 pins on each sides) with 25P05VP、25P10VP、25F512、25F1024、25F1024AN、SST25VF512、SST25VF010, etc.
If there is no BIOS on the PCB, it means the BIOS is integrated on the Main Controller IC
You should exchange the Main Controller IC to let the HDD be recognized. Move the Main Controller IC (the biggest chip on the board) is complex jobs which need you have certain technique. Some electronics repair shop can do it.