mcholst wrote:
So maybe I should just go for a new pcb for around 50$ which is a pretty low price to avoid the risk of completely destroying the drive.
Based on my (non-DR) experiences of disk failures:
a) The fault is unlikely to be the PCB, since the drive is spinning.
b) The process is not as easy as just swapping the PCB - SMT soldering is also needed, to move a component from the old PCB to the new one.
c) If, as expected, the new PCB (with correct procedure above), makes no difference to the problem, then you have incurred risks (e.g. possible ESD & physical damage) and still learned nothing about what the actual problem is - and so you would be no further forwards.
As
pclab says, if the data is important, then you really need to consider whether you want to take the risks of DIY investigation. The only way that I can see for any further DIY progress, would be to look at the terminal output from the drive - hence the mention of a Nokia cable (or similar). In fact, looking at that output would be part of the diagnostic procedure used by a typical DR company, to diagnose the problem with the disk.
So if you really want to change the PCB, then you can go down that path, but I think you'll be wasting your time & money.
However, as
pclab says, there are risks and, frankly, it is unlikely that anything you see in the terminal output would give you a DIY solution. That output
might allow a DR pro here to give you a more detailed diagnosis - but it might not, since they could not do other diagnosis remotely, as it requires equipment in their lab.
FYI, there is a DR pro board member in Sweden, though I don't know of one in Denmark (anyone else know?).
[Edit: I see that
Nick_CT has just said most of the same things
]
FAQ
Search
Login
Register
HDDGURU FILES
