I have a Western Digital Caviar Green Power.
The drive does not spin up, and is not recognized.

Model: WD10EACS - 00ZJB0
Date: 28 Feb 2008

Circuit Board Sticker: 2061-701474-600 01P
Circuit Board Number: 2061-701474-004 REV A.

Could please someone help me out. All of my family photos are here. As well as many important documents.
It is most definitely the circuit board's fault.

Thanks in advance.

Start by searching the word TVS on this forum. Post pictures component side up. Tell us the history behind , when the drive worked last , was anything happening ( power spikes , did it fall ) etc. Provide as many details as u can.

First off, the HDD was never dropped. There may have been electricity spikes, because I live in a country where stable electricity voltage is not always the norm.
Pictures are attached.
The HDD was an external HDD.
It worked flawlessly for about 2.5 years. Last year, it started very rarely not spinning up. I mean the case it as in was being powered up when I plugged it in and everything, but the HDD didn't spin up.
But after a restart or after turning off/on it would. So I didn't think it would be a HDD problem.
Then towards the end of last year, this became more frequent. I though ti was the case's fault. So I went out bought an external HDD enclosure. But that's was the last of the spins the disk had. I didn't even manage to copy anything before it died.
There were no clicking sounds or anything. Therefore I think that the inside of the disk is OK.

What do you guys think? Is it the circuit board's fault?
I need to know if I should order this (http://bit.ly/FPlFh2) circuit board or not. If not, what can I do to save my data?

Is this 10GB or ???? It almost has to be a 100GB since it was made in 2008.
If it is 10GB, I might have a donor drive for whoever you get to fix it. They're pretty common but you need the exact same hardware, and it still requires an expert to match the firmware according to what I've read about the 10-80GB drives. Nevermind, that is a 1TB drive. I have no idea why I was thinking that could possibly have been made past 2003. I'd recommend finding someone that can do board repairs instead of the 'swapping' trick. It doesn't work as well as you'd think even with firmware and configuration data loaded off the service areas. If you read enough topics on this forum, you're realize there's several different reasons that commonly make that not work besides the obvious 'hard failure' (head crash, etc.). For example, the firmware data stored on the magnetic media might itself be corrupt. No amount of changing boards or moving platters will fix that!

When swapping boards, it helps to be more concerned about the exact board chips+layout. Supposedly, the size(capacity) isn't very important if they're the same board but I wonder about firmware issues even though the size information is loaded off the disk ('platters', actually) itself... I'm not a professional, so like I said - you probably would best find one. Yeah, it'll cost but not much choice if you have no backups. Hard lesson - we all learn it with these things! ;(

2 Days ago I made a post and provided pictures and everything, as Alexii said "tell us the history behind it", but it said that the post would have to be approved by administrators! Still hasn't been approved.

What's the "history" behind R82 and R83?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Also D1 D2 and U12 ???

They look like they put the solder on the pads but then never added the optional devices. Probably just a circuit revision. That's pretty normal in the electronics business... But it's kind of hard to tell if they EVER had a device soldered since there's no sign of ceramic broken off or anything. Usually, there's a bit of the black/brown/whatever color of the SMD's casing left behind when they get broke off. Again, it is normal to see 'missing' stuff. Yep, look at U12. It's for some optional IC.

The original poster says that the drive won't even spin. Assuming that you've put your external case/power supply on a voltimeter and know that it in fact outputs the correct 5/12V (yellow=12, red=5, black=0), try hooking it up in a very quiet room and then turn on the external power supply. Even if the spindles have locked up, you should hear a weak whine or a single tick when the motor is attempted to be started. If you don't hear ANY sounds, that's the time to suspect a dead board? They don't die for nothing, though... You need someone experienced in dead boards in front of you, heh. I always check everything besides the drive, just in case it's not even the drive, by the way. I've had bad cases/cables/adapters/... more than once!

Until the OP bridges the two missing resistors, the drive won't even think about spinning up.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Ok, will do what JWCC says tonight or tomorrow, and will report back if I hear ANY sounds at all.
As for assembilng the case back together, I didn't even bother. I used the new external case I bought which is currently hosting my originally intended backup drive (this time going with Seagate). And, the case works fine.

And fzabkar, what do you mean, bridging the two missing resistors? I don't think they're missing. The first time that I removed the circuit board was to take the pictures.

Well, from looking at the drive... Did you find any 'extras' inside the case, by chance? But it's quite possible that they were in fact never on the board. Why do you think so, fzabkar? That they're not for U12? It's hard to tell how a circuit is actually wired without removing chips and tracing it. However, they're some of the bigger traces so you're probably right. Although those 2 resistors do like they're the fuses. It's hard to tell if they were there, even when I zoom in thanks to a little glare (especially on the left resistor). :/

I saw lots of 0-ohm resistors(read: fuses, read again: jumpers), by the way. Nice.

Oh BTW: If they are in fact fuses that blew and you found parts of them in the case, don't even think of bypassing them. Whatever made them blow will self-destruct, making the repair harder.

No, nothing was in the case JWCC. And there doesn't seem to be a sign of any resistors being there.
Even the picture of the new board I just ordered doesn't have the same resistors -> http://bit.ly/FPlFh2

The problem is, I live in a country where there are no Data retrieval services. So, I kind of have to fix this drive myself, or have the risk of sending it by mail somewhere and have it get lost.
I'm going to try the new board when it arrives, if that doesn't work, I have no intention of opening up the drive and dealing with the platters and head and stuff!

U12 is not required because the Marvell 88i6745 MCU has internal flash memory. U12 is populated for MCUs such as the 88i6545 which require external flash.

As for the missing resistors and diodes, those same locations are vacant on the proposed replacement board. It appears that the resistors are there to protect the external supply rather than the PCB. Other boards that use zero-ohm resistors in those same locations (R67 and R64) appear to require them to complete the ground circuit. At least that's the feedback I've been getting from end users.

So it appears that I'm wrong about the two resistors. In any case, a replacement board is unlikely to work because the MCU contains unique information that would need to be transferred to the donor.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I'm curious as to what methods there are to extract that data... Probably depends heavily on if the designer deliberately used a chip that has 'write-once, verify once, read-never' interfaces that you see on some chips. If you can get a copy of that code and write it a new chip, then you're in luck. If not... sigh.

In theory, the MCU could be replaced with the one that uses external storage like U12, but probably isn't practical?

You mean like WOM?
http://www.national.com/rap/files/datasheet.pdf
http://www2.vmi.edu/Faculty/squirejc/Re ... Memory.pdf

Seriously, if a drive supports Power Up In Standby (PUIS), then the PUIS flag has to be stored in nonvolatile memory on the PCB. In fact, in a WD ROYL drive, the PUIS flag is located in ROM MOD 0D.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

I was thinking something like how Xilinx does but yes, it's the same idea. A chip that won't let you get the code back out. Essentially, the black box hardware equivalent of the fallthrough function concept in cryptography. Secrets go in, but they don't (easily) come out.

What about drives that think they're locked, say the master password isn't changed, and yet even SE won't work with the master password?

Zvuqniki, have you checked to see the resistance across the ground and power pins? I'm curious as to the readings you get between +12V (yellow) and ground, as well as +5V(red) and ground.

I don't see how this question is related to the subject of the thread, but anyway...

I have never seen a reliable way for a normal user (i.e. without proprietary commands or information) to see if "the master password isn't changed". Hence people believe the master password has not been changed when, in fact, it has been.

(I've seen a couple of reasons for the behaviour you describe, but I'm just considering the "usual" case.)

Is it possible that your drive is configured to Power Up In Standby, in which case the bridge firmware in your original enclosure may know how to spin it up whereas the firmware in your replacement enclosure may not ???

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Ok, this is what happened. I got the replacement circuit board, and put it on the hdd. Used the external case, powered it up, and voila, the drive spins up perfectly.
HOWEVER, it is not being recognized! I guess I have to swap some chip on the circuit boards.

But listen to this. I thought, what the hell, I'll try the old non-functioning circuit board again. To my surprise, the drive spun up, and started working perfectly. I started to copy the data, but then it died at 2.5GB. (I still need some 38~ to go, to get the important stuff (family pictures) out).
Then I did the switch again. Used the replacement board, spun up the drive, then powered it down, and then used the original. I got another ~800MB out.

What do you guys think is wrong? Any steps that I should take?

EDIT: Ok, I tried it a third time, using the replacement board to spin it up, and then trying the original board to get it to work, but now it won't power up at all.

Very strange.

Have you tried cleaning the connections to the heads?

Points on the PCB bottom right look a bit corroded to me! Won't do any harm

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