Computer threw sparks and let go of lots of magic smoke. Motherboard, CPU, two out of four memory modules, power supply, the video card, and one of five hard drives were taken out in the process.

Understand risks of DIY. Have done multiple DIY's in past, all successes.

Brand new system, BIOS doesn't recognize this one drive. Spins up, no weird sounds.

Took PCB off, and there's very visible scorching. (EDIT: Pictures pending, scanning PCB now.)

Looking for a compatible donor PCB, hoping that's all that got hit. Would be also interested in your pricing for moving the ROM, if I send it to you.

Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA
Model ST500DM002
S/N S2A6M2A4
P/N 1BD142-302
Firmware KC45
Date Code 12484
Site Code SU

PCB P/N 100535704 REV C

Donordrives.com says this (as long as there is not other internal damage of cause):

PCB Requirements for Barracuda HDD Architecture. There is no need for chip transfer or firmware reprogramming. Simple PCB swap is enough to fix the hard drive.

(U Series X (U5, U7), 5400.1 (C1, C2), Barracuda I/II/II/IV/V, Barracuda 7200.7/7200.8/7200.9/7200.10, ES, Momentus 4200.2/5400.3/5400.4/7200.1/7200.2).

1. Full Model Number. Example: ST9640320AS, ST31000528AS
2. Firmware. Example: 3.CDA, 9.01, 8.05


http://www.donordrives.com/hard-drive-p ... swap-match

They also have this drive in stock http://www.donordrives.com/seagate-500g ... -9851.html


Loki

Are you sure that the drive still spins up?

IME when you see damage like that, there will be a shorted 12V TVS diode. This diode appears to be located in the bottom right corner of your first photo. If it is shorted, you will need to remove it. However, let us know its markings before you do so. Also measure its resistance.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

As for the burnt components, they appear to be inductors. They usually burn up after the diode goes short circuit. The fix is to replace them with wire links, or run a wire between the 12V pins at the SATA power connector and the cathode (striped end) of the diode. The cathode is identified by a "v" on the PCB.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

This would be awesome. I am a little bit confused by their wording. The ST500DM002 is a 7200.14 generation, I believe. They say "PCB Requirements for Barracuda HDD Architecture. There is no need for chip transfer. . . Barracuda 7200.7/7200.8/7200.9/7200.10". Then, the next category states: "PCB Requirements for F3 HDD Architecture Barracuda 7200.11/7200.12. . . and newer. Most likely chip transfer will be needed."

I don't know enough about the Seagate / Samsung Hard Drive division merger to know whether my drive would be considered "Barracuda HDD Architecture" or "F3 HDD Architecture", but I see the category saying simple PCB swap lists up to 7200.10, and the category saying chip transfer says 7200.12 and newer, which makes me think perhaps it's in this category instead.

After reading that, I'm questioning whether the drive actually spins up or if I was feeling other vibration. I'll be checking that in a minute, will use my ear this time, and post back.

I sit corrected! Drive is not spinning up. Strangely, I think I'm glad to see that.

Your drives is F3 architecture and will need ROM swapped. We do this free of charge, if donor part is purchased from us. Call us if you have any questions.

_________________
Heather Gray / Sales Specialist
Direct Line: 440-249-0638
Donor Drives LLC: (800) 733-0978 x204
http://www.donordrives.com

I'm in Detroit. Do you allow people to come to you? If so, I just might make the trip on Monday.

In that case the fix is to remove the 12V diode and add a wire link. This should cost you nothing if you are handy with a soldering iron.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

First, thank you very much for your TVS FAQ, it's awesome!

I'd like to consider trying this first. I like free. If I'm understanding correctly, do I need to install four wire links -- one to bridge over each of the blown out inductors? If so, would you be willing to provide guidance on where/how to attach these? The inductors have much smaller and less exposed legs than I've worked with before. I've moved EEPROM's between PCB's and replaced blown caps, but those have larger and more exposed legs to work with (and the caps I've done go through to the other side of the board to be soldered there. Would I be best off leaving the inductors in place, or removing them?

P.S. haven't seen the term "wire link" before. I assume this just means using a wire (like a 18AWG) that is shielded, except for where it's soldered of course.

A single wire link , from any of any of the last three pins(all are 12V pins) from the connector to the PTH just below the middle burnt inductor (below the second pin).
Scrape a bit to get to the copper on the PTH and you can solder it.Check with multimeter for shorts before powering on.You can leave the inductors as it is .
DIY has risks.
goodluck

Thank everyone so much!

What should I check for shorts between? (I mean to ensure there isn't a short that's going to fry everything with the TVS & inductors not in use - I know about checking the TVS to verify its resistance is about the same both ways to verify its fried - not talking about that.) There's 22 pins, and I considered testing for shots between all of them, but that's 231 different combinations.

So, wire link between these two points?

Does it sound like I've verified there's no other shorts?

I tested all 231 combinations of the 15 power pins and 7 data pins, before removing the TVS diode. (I first verified the TVS diode has no (<= 1 ohm) resistance going both ways.)

I found no (<= 1 ohm) resistance between:
* Power pins 1, 2, and 3 (all 3.3v power specd)
* Power pins 4, 6, 10, 11, 12, and data pins 1, 4, and 7 (all ground, except I think power pin 11 is spec'd reserved)
* Power pins 7, 8, and 9 (all 5v power specd)
* Power pins 13, 14, and 15 (all 12v power specd)

After removing the TVS diode, I tested all the combinations again and found the same results.

Or, are there any other spots I need to check for shorts?

I think what sathyan is saying is that, after removing the diode and installing the wire link, you need to verify that a short circuit is no longer present on the 12V supply. You would do this by measuring the resistance between ground and the +12V pins at the SATA power connector.

BTW, I always clean up any charred mess with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol (eg audio/video head cleaner).

Your last photo clip is OK. An alternative method would be to run a wire (insulated) from the +12V SATA pins to the "v" end of the diode.


"F3" does not refer to SpinPoint F3 models. It refers to the firmware in recent Seagate families. When you access the serial terminal in recent Seagate models (7200.11, 7200.12, etc), you will see an "F3" prompt.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Sorry, i did not mean that.
I should have been more clear, my mistake.
fzabkar pointed to what you have to do.
after the wire link , check if the 12v supply for short.
Also after the wire link soldering, magnify the area and check for short of the wire link or other solder bridges(the soldering usually wont come as good shown as in the picture).if you are good
at it, then nothing to worry.
good luck

For the record you can't just swap out the ST31000528AS 1TB drive; you have to do more or listen to it clank & now you'll have HSA or slider problems.

Part of the reason contributes to firmware dumping Phirma-Kode [Mnemonic movie ] onto the platters, possibly N.o.T.S.o - S.M.A.R.T. info placed there.

Wrote a song about it like to hear it hear it go:

http://files.hddguru.com/index.php? <~ click "HD clicking noises" & look for same Mod# under my name.

~UART "There's nothing worst than staring at empty plates, expecting leftovers after a hard days dump"