silly defect picture tells all.
HDD laid on a metal cage that it was housed in previously.
Afaik the metal only touched exactly where you can see the blown simple components,
so only replacing this components will help maybe? which are the blown components?
Otherwise which other drives are PCB donors? (next to exactly this: 250GB SP2504C p120s S/N:SO9QJ1UL419810 2006.4)
Thanks!

If you have important data in the drive, DIY is not advised.
Take a pro help, for a proper diagnosis, and if you are lucky it shouldn't cost you much.



From the picture, on the 5v rail, the component ( a conductor) is blown.
you can first check the 0 ohm fuse and TVS on both the 5v and 12v rail.
Then you can use a wire-wrap for the blown conductor.(from the 0 ohm 5v fuse).
You will need proper tools and some electronic idea for this.

(There are chances that more than what is visible has also failed, and without proper testing you can cause more damage to the PCB)





You will need to transfer the rom before swapping the pcb.
In your case the rom is not external. So not DIY.
You will have to buy PCB from sources who transfer adaptives from the source to the donor.

If your data is critical, its easy and safe to take pro help.

thank you

what is the original resistance of the smokey conductors, so that i can replace them right?
and what is the original resistance of tiny one below? (i think both are affected)
should i watch the back back of the PCB to make sure/upload a picture?

Well?
0 OHM Fuses have both 0 OHM
12V TVS has 35k OHM
5V TVS has 6.7k OHM
Big smokey conductor has ~750 OHM outside / hard to tell / measured in the broken edge only 50 OHM
Tiny smokey conductor has 5.9k OHM

What else should i measure?
should i get a second drive just to take replace the two conductors?

You didnt tell if the data is important . So repeating again that DIY attempts CAN degrade the condition of the drive and WILL make recovery by a pro costlier.
If it is your drive and if data is not that important...


A working conductor should show 0 ohms ( there is a similar conductor between the
12v TVS and 0 ohm fuse, for comparison).

And the tiny one below the conductor is a capacitor, and the reading you got for it suggests it should be ok.

Clean the area with isopropyl alcohol , and use a magnifying glass to inspect the area.
The track from the 5v 0 ohm to the conductor seems to have burnt out.
Check it .

If you have a similar component , replace it. Or you can use a wire-warp too(from the 5V 0 ohm fuse to the other end of the blown conductor)

Thank you again. i had noticed the 12v and 5v lines look similar but what bothered me was that i did not know a "conductor" without a function is used here since the board already has plenty of cooper so it makes no sense (besides maybe being a strange kind of fuse as of the solder material?)

The conductor, now i replaced it with a piece of cooper, wasn't properly soldered anymore,
while the same part on the 12V line indeed shows 0 OHM. I cant make the broken one be below 40 OHM even after cleaning it carefully.

drive works! =)
(As said the shortcircuit most likely bypassed the TVS on 5V only. )

Good job.
Back up the data , and keep your data safe.

it is not a component without a function.
Will give you details of the failed component later.

Chip Inductor

http://www.siricomindia.com/smd-inducto ... p-inductor