Hi,
I've got a problem with my HDD:

Model: WD5000AAKS-00V1A0
Date: 14 FEB 2010
DCM: HHRCNTJCHN
DCX: 3009V2417
Made: In Thailand
PCB Marking: 2060-701640-002 REV A
PCB Sticker: 2061-701640-K02 05PD6 XF A160 QU2E 8 0002320 0322

It spins up and then you hear some clicking. Next it spins down and restarts again.
I bought a new HDD with nearly the same PCB:
Model: WD5000AAKS-00V1A0
Date: 12 FEB 2010
DCM: HHNCHTJCH
PCB Marking: 2060-701640-002 REV A
PCB Sticker: 2061-701640-202 04PD4 XW 8R44 0RXG 3 0001320 0321

I moved the SPI-Flash U12 to the new PCB and put the new PCB to the old HDD but it doesn't make any sounds. So I moved the SPI-Flash and PCB back and it works like before.
Do I have to change another IC? What could be the problem?
Thank you for replys

You wasted money on a new PCB, the problem is very likely elsewhere, from what I see.

Before you ask : either you buy expensive tools and hope someone will teach you how to use it (not a good idea for repairing your single drive) or either you learn how to use it, or get professional service. Plan B : forget data and carry on.

I'm studying computer science and therefore I'm intereseted in this topic.
What could be wrong? And which tools do you mean (hardware or software tools)?

Sorry I give up !

I'm sorry, too.
I think the heads are stucked.
But I'm wondering about the fact, the new PCB won't work with the defective HDD even though the Flash was changed. Do you have any idea about this phenomenon?

Translation of BlackST's post above: "this damage is not DIY, regardless if you're studying computer science, rocket science or whatever.
It needs a lot of know how, expensive equipment and tons of experience."

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You are suddenly interested in this topic only because your disk blew up. Harsh, but true.

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It's not even my disk.
I read a lot about that earlier but it wasn't that important for me. Now, I've got a reason to spend more time for that topic. Until now, I was always able to recover data by ddrescue. But now it's worse.
I suppose you are right. But nevertheless it's interesting. To get the data from the spi-flash, I programmed a snippet in c on my raspberry pi to have a backup.
Do anyone have a explanation for the problem with the changed PCB. I thought it should work, at least try to spin up.

I had a feeling about it...


Usually the reason is because DR is known to be the chicken that lays golden eggs - but it's not so poetic so let's assume in this case the reason is another one
Anyway, jokes apart, understanding these puppies may be SO FRUSTRATING....


Exactly, when there is actually no failure DDrescue and co. work perfectly. But as you said, now it's worse.


To explain, we should see and test the PCBs AND ROMs (both!) LIVE.

I will upload the photos and recorded sound on thursday.
I soldered the EEprom in the correct way, but I could test it again. Should I record communication with a logic-analyzer?
I recognized different assembly (2 Resistors near pads to HDD) from the two PCB's.

my wd clicking

read


mine repeats the upper sequence about 5 times in 30secs because ata standards specs a 30 sec delay at some moment.

does the donor pcb with the old rom chip...work on the donor hdd?

Is it possible your donor pcb had no eeprom ?
If so those two resistors config the pcb to use internal rom and not the external.
Changing the rom wont work in this case.

Dobre

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+1

You beat me to it! That is certainly one explanation why the "new" PCB doesn't fix anything with the "old" EEPROM attached. Or the new PCB is itself faulty..

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Hi again,
My new PCB has got an EEprom and it's working fine with it's own HDD.
I'm sorry for bad soldering on new PCB. I ripped off one pad, so I had to short two pins of the EEprom.
I attached some photos and the noise from the old HDD.

Difference in assembly:
Pictures New_PCB_Top_02.jpg and OLD_PCB_Top_04.jpg:
Near Pads J1 - R71, R51, R48, R68 and C48, R50

Maybe more differences.

Hi,
the shorted pins are connected on PCB - that's why I shorted them.
Both EEproms are still working. I desoldered them with hot-air-Station. After that, I removed the solder with desoldering wick. Unfortunately, I used a wrong soldering tip and that's the reason for the ripped pad and dark stain. Next, I soldered them both (old and new one) with a flux pen. That's why you can't read the label.
Please have a look on the old PCB. It looks better. I know, the EEprom you mentioned is soldered in a bad way.

We know the situation is getting worse. What is going to be done about it?

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Thanks for the answer.
But why does the new PCB don't start with old EEprom (imagine EEprom is ok)?

God..dammnned! You're just making someone else's repair bill go 2x higher.

_________________
On a clear disk you can seek forever.

How it "looks" inside the by-now-overheated chip is more important. Did you not work quickly enough? Use too much heat too long? Not use a shield over the chip, thus heating the body too? Why are you experimenting on someone else' critical work?

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On a clear disk you can seek forever.