Hello!

Hitachi 1TB HDS721010CLA332
Model: HDS721010CLA332
Part Number: 0F10383
MLC: JPT39C
PCB Sticker: 0A72947 BA3321B
Controller Chip 0A71256

No activity at all.

I'm about to have a board swop/ adaptation done. Specs above. I haven't found a clear answer, that if everything matches except the MLC, in this case the just the last three digits are different, which refer to the firmware version. As long as the chip is swopped, the MLC difference should not matter.

The firmware number in the MLC is swopped when the chip is swopped? Am I correct?

How reputable is donordrives.com? I've read mixed opinions.

Thanks in advance

Maxi

You should be fine with a ROM transfer, assuming PCB is the only issue.

What was/is the problem with the drive, totally dead?

I've used donordrives on a few occasions, and never had an issue. But I'm only buying parts that I know what I'm buying and what do do with them

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Thank you. I wanted to confirm those last 3 digits (FW) were non essential with an adaptation. The drive is a low hours drive. After some work on the PC, and reinstalling drives. I believe there may be a short in a sata power cable that may have zapped the drive. It is completely dead. Bios does not recognize electronics. It does not spin up. Tried it on an external case. And nothing.

The power supply has the old style 4 pin plugs. And I was using a SATA power adapter. I think that was just crap.

I could live without the drive, but it does have my recent artwork on it. Luckily all my other artwork is backed up. Just about a months worth.

Thanks for your advice.

Measure the resistances of the TVS diodes. That will tell you if there was an overvoltage on either the +5V or +12V supply. Upload a photo if you need help identifying them.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Yeah, if you upload a image of both sides of the PCB then it might be a simple task to fix.

Shane

Thanks guys.

Here are some pics of the front and back of the PCB. There was no burnt smell, Twll me what to do to check it. I have a multimeter.

Thanks!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/91633378@N02/10111624743/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/91633378@N02/10111666543/

Measure the resistances of the two TVS diodes and the adjacent resistors ("R").



The NVRAM chip is the one you need to transfer to your donor PCB.

BTW, you should pull back on the tabs to release them before you withdraw the flex cable from the motor connector.

I notice that the 12V TVS diode has a dot. I don't know if this is a mould mark, or whether it is due to damage.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

First, I have a cheapo Multimeter, even though it is probably not accurate, here are the results.

12V Diode

Setting my multimeter to Diode (with probes not connected it displays "1")

With the positive probe at the bottom it shows 180
If I reverse the probe a get "1" no connection.

The resistor (If I set it to the lowest dial number "200")
it reads 117

----------------------------------------

5v Diode


Set to Diode test

With positive at the bottom, it shows 200
If I reverse the probes it shows 450.

Resistor

With the positive to the right side I get 5 set at the 200k dial setting)

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Neither diode is shorted.

The 12V resistor appears to be open. It should measure close to zero ohms on the 200 ohms range.

The reading for the 5V resistor (5Kohm) is suggesting that it is open also.

If the following thread is any guide, then your drive may have a dead motor controller IC, and perhaps a faulty preamp.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=26543&p=183146

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Okay, I read all 4 pages from the other discussion you linked me to. So that I understand, The motor controller is on the PCB, the smaller square chip. Regarding the pre-amp, is that also on the PCB, or inside the drive?

Would you say a PCB adaption may solve the problem? Or if it is the pre-amp, it will not?

Can I check the pre-amp?

Thanks

Alex

PS if it is a faulty Pre-Amp, would the drive not spin up or show up in the bios? This drive does not spin or show up at all.

The pre-amp is a small chip inside the drive on the arm that holds the heads. If its shorted or damaged, the feedback could damage the new PCB board to place on the drive, or repair. Not sure how to test the pre-amp, but if there is something wrong with it, the drive will have to be sent to a DR company to have the heads replaced with a new set.

If you isolate the contact to the HDA, but keep contact to spindle and apply power, it should spin even with bad preamp. Alternatively, place totally non-native PCB + NVRAM to the disk to rule out bad NVRAM/ROM/PCB

If I connect power and SATA to the board with the drive not attached, will the computer recognize the board? Or the board must be connected to the drive?