Hello to everyone,
I'm new to this platform even if I read many posts in the past and recently I used the excellent article about the Samsung Spinpoint F3 firmware to fix the FIPS section of a HD502HJ/B, so first of all I have to thank fzabkar for this indirect help!
I use to do fault analysys of notebook and general electronics motherboards, from shorts tracing to bga reballing, so I'm quite trained to use the tools I need for smd electronics repair (multimeters, power supplies, hot air, infrared station, Willem programmer etc).
This time I have in my hands an Hitachi 5K750-640, these are its numbers :

HTS547564A9E384
C P/N : H2T640854S
P/N : 0J15342
MLC : DA3931
HW/FW/PCB : A A50A A/A

On the pcb itself I can read:

110 0A90269 01
TAKA020HF
220 0A90269 01

on the barcode sticker :

0J11457
DA4725_
Pzo203
6DW0

Its problem was that it was mounted in a laptop which got flooded with wine, I succeed in restoring the motherboard but the Hitachi drive didn't spin at all, so I analyzed the pcb and found that it had one opened fuse on the 5V, which I swapped with a new fast-type one of 3A, and now the drive came back to life and fortunately works as before.
Since I didn't find any boardview or datasheet of this Hitachi pcb, nor any signs on the pcb or the fuse itself, my question is: will this 3Amps fuse be secure for the future?
In the attached image you can see the two fuses, in the yellow rectangle the blown one.
On the main sticker I can read that this hdd needs 700mAmps on 5V to work correctly, so I think that maybe 1A or 2A would be perfect in order to prevent other internal failures in case of needs, but now I have available only these 3A fuses.
What you guru users think about?

Although it would be a good idea to have the right fuse in place, I think the drive should be able to work okay as it is. Any over voltage would short out the Diod and that will kill the fuse at the same time. But if you can get your hands on the correct fuse then that would be better.

Thank you for your help, I think so, that's why I asked for the correct value on this forum, I read in some posts 2A and some other 4A, I hope someone knows the truth

1 AMP will do it, that should cover MAXIMUM start up peak for your drive.

2 AMPS is just being greedy

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All went well until I plugged the drive in.