I've old ATA hdd WD1600AABB. It is complety dead (no sound and vibration of working platters) since I've plugged in cd-rom drive.
Can I take the same model of hdd and ordinary replace the PCB?

You need to transfer the chip at U12 (if it exists) from patient to donor. Some PCB suppliers will include this as a free service.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I think, there isn't U12 chip (ROM module) on the PCB.
The place for this chip on the PCB is empty.

I checked the piece of paper solution but the drive is still dead - engine is not working.

I've model wd1600aabb-22pua0. I can find only wd1600aabb-00pua0 donor in internet.
I'm not sure are they compatible.

The model you found is very close and if you can have it at a fair price, I would give it a try.
At least it will tell you if the motor spins with the new board.
For basic diagnosis, you could also use the same PCB board number from another model, even with different capacity. If the motor spins, then it would mean that your PCB is "dead".
There might be some protective diode to replace on your circuit.

(This was a double post. Sorry.)

I can buy it for 11 euro
If I was able to find an identical model, will it be necessary to just replace only the PCB without soldering?


Do you mean transil?

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bi ... diodes.jpg

That said, ISTM that if your drive does not short the computer's PSU, then there must be other problems on the PCB (or preamp). I would still measure the diodes and resistors, though.

One other possibility that you should consider is Power Up In Standby (PUIS). Does your drive appear in BIOS, even if it is with a blank model number?

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Drive is totaly off. It's not appear in BIOS.
I'll check diodes but i think that if diodes would be damaged, the computer would not be turned on.

That depends on whether the corresponding resistor is closed or open. WD's drives have an amazingly stupid design.

Catastrophic failures in Western Digital PCBs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php? ... 119&p=5033

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I've checked two diodes. I set multimeter range on 2 MOhm.
The red one give 0.55 MOhm in both directions.
The green one give 0.06 MOhm in both directions.

I've soldered out diodes and they are ok - let go current only in one direction.
I discovered that when the drive is connected to a computer, the PCB heats up

Measure the following voltages:

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Hi,
Search this PCB:
2060-701494-001
2060-701494-002

*You can ignore the drive model and capacity

Mikippp

Vcore - Vneg: 1.2V
Vio_TVS: Left pin - 1.5V, right pin - 0.8V

Place the black probe (COM) on a ground point, eg a screw hole. Then measure the voltages with your red probe.

ISTM that you wrongly used the +5V tab of Q4 as your ground reference for one measurement, and the -5V test point as your reference for the Vcore measurement.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I have placed black probe in Vneg and red probe in Vcore.
Next picture Vio_TS - black probe in the botton pin, red probe in top left and right pins.
I guess I was wrong

I have placed black probe in screw hole as fzabkar wrote and I have new measures:

Vio_TVS: Left pin: 3.28V,
Vio_TVS: right pin: 4.05V.

Vcore: 1.36V
Vneg: 0.14V

Measure Vneg again, but this time watch to see whether it goes to -5V immediately after power-on and then drops to 0V. AIUI, this will prove that the MCU is alive.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.