hello.
it's Sandisk Ultra Flair 256G
lost two parts when the USB flash drive broke.


I tried bought the same model to replace it, but it was different.


Can anyone tell me about those parts?

i marked the results of the continuous test.






Thanks for helping me!

It seems to me that the two are the same, it's just that the sizes differ. What are the resistances of each of the 5 passive components? What are the voltages at each passive component on the new drive?

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

i checked new one's 5V, GND.
it is 180 degree ratated.
so, i moved it with rotated without left parts.
it works!

thanks a lot.

To me, your result is useless and frustrating. We still don't know what the IC is or does. It should take only a few minutes to trace the circuit around those 6 components and to measure the voltages on all the pins. That would tell us everything we need to know. It's quite possible that the IC is an e-fuse or load switch, in which case it could be bypassed with a link instead of sacrificing a donor. The part on the left is probably a capacitor (according to the voltages), although its colour is more like an inductor.

By the way, I found this example of the Dunning-Kruger Effect:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfVV68bVg1Y

This bright spark repairs laptop motherboards for a living but doesn't know what a fuse is. The fuse lights up his thermal camera, so he thinks that this mystery component is shorted. Sure enough, when he measures the fuse with his multimeter, it does indeed test as 0 ohms. Therefore, he thinks it's faulty. After removing it with his hot air station, he tests the pads on the PCB and the short is gone (obviously), but he doesn't think to test for shorts between the output of the fuse and ground. Anyone who repairs motherboards for a living should recognise the fuse because the same components are used to protect HMDI and USB and PS/2 mouse/keyboard ports. They all have the tell-tale semicircular cutouts at each end. Moreover, any real component-level tech knows that when something heats up, you should check for shorts downstream. He now replaces the fuse with a part cannibalised from a donor (presumably at the ciustomer's expense) and miraculously the device starts working. I can only assume that the old fuse was tired, or, more likely, the heat cleared the short in an adjacent ceramic capacitor.

By the way, the fuse is a polyswitch or resettable PPTC fuse.

https://www.google.com/search?imgtype=photo&q=polyswitch+OR+PPTC+OR+polyfuse&tbs=isz:m&udm=2

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I have seen many variations on logic boards for both hard disks and SATA SSD products suggesting batches are made using whatever parts are available cheapest

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Orico DS500C3-US-BK 5-disk 3.5" SATA, iTGZ 4x M.2 2280 Thunderbolt enclosure NVMe/SATA, etc. etc.