Hello, I bought a donor board for the Toshiba MG09ACA18TE (part number G0082A) because broken sata connector. Now I have transfer bios, bevause the drive isn't recognized by the bios of my PC. In this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeBnEQvhl84 I see it's is the chip Q100 (0:42), but it's is a TPCA8131, what is a MOSFET: https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet- ... A8131.html Does anyone have an idea?

With kind regards,
Rene

can you take a good photo of your board, and also have you identified other chips that are actually flash memory, maybe IC5?

LOL! Yes, that is very stupid. Just another reason not to buy from them.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

The board is working properly, In Windows it will be recognized, only wrong firmware and parameters.

Thx! I made some pictures, but it was very difficult to make sharp pictures. I upload the here, but I think it's ic4 (it seems to be it's a W25Q32JWBYIM). I will try to do a bios transfer bij onboard flashing with a programmer.

I made some better picures.

GD25LH32D, GigaDevice, SPI flash, 32Mbit, 1.65V - 2.0V, SOP-8 / USON-8, WSON-8, WLCSP-8:
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/870/gd25le32d_v2.0_20200612-1668087.pdf

W25Q32JW, Winbond, 1.8V 32M-BIT SERIAL FLASH MEMORY WITH DUAL, QUAD SPI, USON-8:
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/949/w25q32jw_spi_revf_09042018-1489621.pdf

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

I would have thought this would have been OP's first step. how does one know how to connect a programmer, take dumps, manipulate dumps and reflash if identifying the chip was the hard part?

I expect that IC4 would be the "ROM" while IC5 and IC6 (unpopulated) could be nonvolatile cache for power loss data protection.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Winbond typically are writable. The GD25LH32D is likely fixed ROM device. Both look like a standard clip on chip reader can possibly read them both.

The GD25LH32D probably has disk tables when the assembly was made originally. Probably has bad block tables too.

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USB 3.5" enclosures are $19 USD postage paid from China, I own several

Babblebot.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

where is the source of this information?

You Must answer

I Have borrowed a programmer, but the clip is too big. Really don't know what kind of package is is. Made a picture with a standard header of 0.1 inch

Can you read the datasheet?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

trivial to solder thin wire from chip to reader

Yes I can, but there are multiple packages availabe for the chip. I think it's a VSOP8 with a pitch o 0.65mm, but I'm not sure.

Something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pqZSewQD64?

The pinout of these chips is common to all 25 series flash ic, you can see this by where the ground and power are connected.

You don't even need to solder anything there. Do you see the holes in the board next to the chips? And in places where there are no chips, you can see which contacts these holes are connected to. You need to insert a copper core from a multi-core cord, wires from an ide-cable or an insulated wire from headphones into the holes (you just need to clean the varnish), and glue them to the board with adhesive tape so that they do not come off. How exactly the other end of these wires is connected to the programmer is up to you.

You can, of course, solder the wiring, but why spoil the appearance of an ideal board, given that the chips may refuse to be read or flashed while they are soldered to the board. Boards from Seagate hard drives, for example, cannot be flashed like this, you need to desolder the chip.

Considering that the broken board has not failed, it is possible that the ROM can be read from it using software methods, however, I haven’t even held such modern hard drives in my hands, I haven’t even seen them, and I don’t know what programs exist for them.

Why not just deal with the broken connector by hard-wiring it? This is especially easy for the power connector.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

P.S. Before connecting the programmer, ensure that it supplies both the voltage and the signals at 1.8V to the chip - or use a 1.8V adapter for the programmer. Otherwise, you’ll fry both the chip and the board, creating even more problems for yourself than you had to begin with.