OZETEK, first of all, try another board. If you have multimeter you can test preamp as shown above.
If the drive goes clicking with new board then your preamp is gone too. Hopefully it's not.

Hello,

yes, it sounds quite similar.
But i think your harddisk can work again by replacing a good PCB.

But mine is much poor than you....
and searching info for trying to get my harddisk work again.....
and reading....
http://hddguru.com/content/en/articles/ ... k-Q-and-A/


it'a a big challenge to me now.

one question concerning the test of the preamp - its is a bit confusing ...

the hdd has a connector, which has 9-3-4-2 pins from left to right. as shown on the picture, to test the preamp the black wire connecting to +5V and the red to GND. the black one on the left side, (pin 1 or 2 of 9) the red on the right side (pin 2 or 3 of 9)
but there is a complete other picture, where pins 3 and 4 should be tested with the switched locations of +5V and GND! so, am i asking, what is right?

as i test the hdd here now, i get infinity for black - pin 2 and red - pin 3. the other way i get 0,56 or 0,62 switching the wires.

3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v
5/9 --- +5v

Both :+5V and -5V MUST be check !!!!!

If the resistance between them and GND is 0 ohm
HDA is broken and new PCB will be burnt again...........

_________________
Spasavanje podataka

same chip burned as previously posted by kkfung; a short in the cheap external case where the drive was



when put in diode test, my multimeter shows a number one, only that "1" on the left of the screen

making this test, I get this results

3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v 678
5/9 --- +5v 1 (no change)

please advice, do I proceed to get another pcb or I have to send the drive to a data rescue service?
I located a 160gb pcb that has all the correct numbers, chips and firmware; also, a used pcb from the malasya vendor is available
I am not able to do the preamp job myself; and, if anyone knows, where do you get a preamp for a maxtor diamondmax plus 9 250gb ata 133 ide drive?

thanks for the help

When w503 burns out smooth chip burns too,there is a chance that the ardent chip too burned out.
So you will need to change the pcb,best solution.

Firstly I've just joined HDDGURU and i'd like to take the opportunity to say hi to everyone.
Now on with my post. The smooth IC on my Maxtor 20GB HDD recently died. I was hoping to replace the logic board.

I have tested my preamp using the above illustration with my fluke10 multimeterand it is giving me a reading of 0.001

Has the preamp gone? I think it has, but any advice would be greatly appriciated.
Dean.

U should check the GND and -5V pin in diode checking mode.
If u connect the negative to GND and positive to -5V pin u should read about 0.6-0.7 on the multimeter
if U connect it reversed U should read above 1.2.

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Adatmentés - Data recovery

Hello, pepe. Thank you for your reply. The drive is 250GB, sorry for my typo. I was checking in diode checking mode, and I reversed the check like you stated in your reply, but I get the same result 0.001

which model?

_________________
Adatmentés - Data recovery

@pepe
I like ur attitude on this topic, u have been helpn the guys with their pcb problems. More grease to ur elbows.

Ok, guys u r asking the questions but what I wanna ask is have u paid attention to the the numbers written on the big chip and other identifications. My advice is to get the exact pcb match by using this tool from this website http://site.onepcbsolution.com/guides/guide.php for the pcb then see if u can find the pcb in ur price range. that pcb should work for the hard drive. the pcb's r maxtor's main problems so if u get a good pcb it would work.

pepe

Model: Maxtor Maxline Plus II 2050GB ATA133
Board # 301862101 Calypso/KOI
Code: YAR4IBW0 (K,M,C,D)
S/N: Y642192E FY06A
M8FYB

Thanks,
Dean.

Hi, Felibo. Nice website! I have paid attention to the IC numbers on my HDD and know exaclty which replacement board I need. However after reading some of the comments here there's a chance the preamp has gone, and replacing the board will not fix the drive.

Dean.

My opinion:

Change the pcb just to check if the hdd can spin. for if it can spin then the the preamp is ok, the the rest is up to u - DIY ...for the fun of it or to feel good.

preamp shorted.
It will kill whatever pcb U try.

pepe

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Adatmentés - Data recovery

Hi, I have 80GB version of this hard drive (DiamondMax Plus 9)
Code: YAR41BW0
N,M,B,A
SN: Y234ZPJC
6Y080L0422611
M6FYA

and donor info:
Code: YAR41BW0
K,M,C,A
SN: Y2QE69LE
6Y080L0422041
F4FYA

But my multimeter shows 007 in diode checking mode, also with reverse check - same result. Is it safe then to swap PCBs ?

yes

_________________
www.datarecoveryne.com

I notice that this thread just died Aug. 25, or 2010 before 'rime' mentioned how the PCB replacement went.. I was going to let it RIP but had some questions to some of the posts.

harddrivespecialist told rime that 'yes' it was OK to swap out the PCB when his test reading was 007. From my understanding 007... is 7 above a completely closed and/or possibly shorted circuit.
'Pepe' said, "If the multimeter shows any value other than infinity, the preamp is gone".
I don't know precisely the difference between diode mode and ohms resistance mode on a multi-meter since they both put out 2.9v on the leads, other than the scale on the LCD reads different, but from my understanding, infinity is the same as a complete broken circuit with no continuity whatsoever. Is this what the pre-amp is supposed to register, no continuity? At least infinity on an ohms testing mode registers a no circuit.
Then he went on to say, "If it shows bellow ~1.000 the new board will be damaged probably if U try it."
I did not ever see a decimal on the 'Diode'' range scale on my multimeter. I do see a decimal on the ohm scale though. So this is confusing.
Then after than gsimon said, "If the resistance between them and GND is 0 ohm
HDA is broken and new PCB will be burnt again..........." Now 0 ohm is the is a completely closed circuit and/or short.
I understand that but then the 'diode' range scale is not measuring ohms.
Then 'pepe' went on to say, "If u connect the negative to GND and positive to -5V pin u should read about 0.6-0.7
on the multimeter if U connect it reversed U should read above 1.2."
This sounds like a contradiction from what he said before whne he mentioned, "'If the multimeter shows any value other than infinity, the preamp is gone" ..... and then I still don't see a decimal in 'diode' range setting.

I hoe someone can clear all of the above confusions, misunderstanding, and make sense of it for me.

I wish this was made more clear.
I have
Maxtor DiamondMax 120GB Plus 9
YAR41BWO
6Y120L0031011

I also, via a nifty HDD adapter that has a female end that has terminals flush with the molex and is easy to touch to a HDD connector inverted in reverse, and just blew up a perfectly good, working:
Maxtor DiamondMax 60GB
YAR41BWO
6Y060P0421211

Below are the measurements in 'Diode' range setting and I did n't try ohm range setting.

My Maxtor DiamonMax 120GB (Red to neg and black to -5v like 2 tutorials explained)
3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v 1 (no change)
5/9 --- +5v 042

My 120GB (Leds In Reverse)
3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v 670
5/9 --- +5v 042

Maxtor DiamonMax 60GB
3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v 1615 or 1765
5/9 --- +5v 650 or 668
reverse is
3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v 502
5/9 --- +5v 1792

When I touched the HDD adapter power the wrong way on the 60GB drive, of course nothing happened, until I tried to reconnect it the right way and seen the Q500 IC light up like a red hot diode and start smoking. I immediately unplugged it

The 120GB drive has no visual damage.

I hope someone can clear up these confusing misunderstandings as because of that I am not sure what the test numbers actually mean. I would like to get them both working somehow but the 120GB is the one that has data it I want to recover. The data on the 60GB drive is not critical but it would be nice to recover some of it or get it working.

Thank you in advance

I think there is still some chance that the 60GB drive's preamp survived, but the 120GB preamp looks like it has a problem on the +5V side. I would retake the measurements on the 200 ohms range. If you still see 42 ohms in both directions, then that would confirm that the preamp is dead.

The following resources may be of interest to you:

Maxtor DiamondMaxPlus9 160GB HDD hires PCB photos, PCB layout, HDA connector pinout:
http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=117

Other hires Maxtor PCB photos:
http://malthus.zapto.org/viewforum.php

As for your question regarding the open circuit voltage of your meter, I would think that the voltage would be 3V on the diode range, and less than 0.6V on the resistance ranges. This is because silicon semiconductor PN junctions (eg diodes) require approximately 0.6V to turn on. On the resistance ranges the voltage must be reduced below this level in order to prevent the readings being disturbed by adjacent semiconductors.

You can determine the open circuit voltage and short circuit current on each of your meter's ranges using the method described in the following thread:
viewtopic.php?t=15374&start=

In the case of my meter's diode range, it injects a 1mA current into the circuit and measures the voltage between its probes. The current on the 200 ohms range is only 0.1mA and the open circuit voltage is only 0.55V.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Thanks for the response. I appreciate it.

Both of those links are dead

Using the 200 ohm scale On
My 120GB
3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v ...... INFINITY
5/9 --- +5v 41.5-41.8

Maxtor DiamonMax 60GB
3/9 --- GND
4/9 --- -5v INFINITY
5/9 --- +5v INFINITY

What does that look like? Does it confirm what you said?
If it does confirm that the 60GB preamp is ok then my question is, What component needs replaced since the Q 500 lit up like a candle when I connected the power the correct way and I imagine that, just replacing that will make the new one light up and burn as well and possibly risk further damage.