This is the board of my Seagate Hard disk:

Encircled is a diode or chip cracked from the incident.

Condition of hard disk is power fault, smell of burned capacitors or parts from the power outlet of the hard disk. What happened is my computer suddenly shuts off then when I try to turn it on it does not anymore. I had to use my spare Hard drive which is my secondary from my 160GB drive, then it works. I sniff my 160GB drive if there is anything wrong then I found out that there is something burned from the board of the hard disk.

Type: Seagate
Model: ST3160215A
Size: 160GB

Could be that cracked chip be replaced or something to fix it?
The chip is AE GP719

Needed help really badly!

Just remove that "chip"

99% sure the drive will work without it

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It did not happened as expected, it also burned another chip now an IC.



IC is:
980
SH6960B
76ACTV 64

The part circled is a TVS, remove it.

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I uploaded a wrong picture, now its updated with the latest picture with the burned IC. See picture from my last post.

Ah, now I see.

Burnt motor IC.

Could possibly be preamp (internal) problem too.

You need at least a new PCB.

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Could you help me out with my problem? I really need my files...

Locate for a pro near you. If data is important, anyway. Or send to pro. It is impossible to remote diag/repair

Sadly to say, there are no Seagate repair center nor pro people who can fix the PCB of my Hard drive. They are only distributors of Hard disks. If anyone has a spare board and will be available, I will appreciate it.

Details as specified on my Seagate Hard disk:
Model: ST3160215A
P/N: 9CY012-305
Firmware: 3.AAD
Date Code: 08045
Site Code: TK
Product of Thailand, as stated on the label

...assuming it is the pcb.

Isnt there a CBL DR service provider in phillipines??

What he said, in a way.

It IS the PCB now, whether it always was, and there's nothing else wrong with your drive, we don't know. Check for a short across the motor windings using a digital (or late model dial) meter before you put a new PCB on it, so you don't just fry that one too in case the motor is shorted. A shorted motor could cause this to happen, though shorted motors are in practice generally a symptom of something else, not the cause of your trouble.

Remember, the TVS diode is a reverse current protection device, they don't usually burn for no reason. Especially burn badly enough to crack. Whatever caused this could also now have been "allowed" to get "onto" the rest of the board, frying the motor controller. The head preamplifier is also easily damaged, and may be damaged as well from whatever caused this. Unfortunately, the only way you will know that is to fix the drive to the point of the damage that you are thus far aware of, and look for additional problems.

The reason I say late model dial is that there are a lot of things (ICs, some other PCB components) that can be easily damaged by the high (1-6V!) resistance testing voltages used by some older meters. A digital meter or any auto ranging dial meter (or one that says it is safe for logic circuitry) will be fine for anything now, though in practice a digital is a lot easier to read unless you really like or got used to the old stuff.

All that being said, it's a motor and you won't hurt it with an old meter, just thought I would warn you in case you decided to go poking other things with your meter.




I wouldn't send it to Seagate's recovery company if I were paid to do it. I'd sooner send it to Ontrack (not an endorsement) and let them put it in a microwave or something, if I were to go to one of the big companies.

I actually did have a notebook brought to me once that a man whose wife had caught him carrying on with someone else had put it in a microwave when she caught him with emails on the machine. All information was recovered, though the drive was only circuit board damaged. The rest of the machine was a total loss.

@Zorb
Is the motor three pin (from the lower right of the second picture of the PCB), if that is it where it touches the pin on the physical drive itself which is located at the center with a small circle with connecting pins then I have tested it with my digital tester and it has continuity which means the motor is still working.

Continuity can also mean short... Mjay, can you send the drive abroad, or in a fdw words you can't afford professional help?

I don't have enough money to send my PCB abroad. Only I can do is find ways to get the same PCB with the cheapest price I can get.

Yes if there's too much continuity. Have you ever tested a transformer? You could see 5 ohms and it would be good (depending on how much wire is in the transformer). A few ohm reading is normal. Zero or one ohm or the like is not normal.

And yes, the motor is the three pin connection. Don't bend the pins, they require the correct tension to connect to the PCB. I don't know how Seagate's 7200.10 motor phases are configured, but I have 2.8 ohms between any two pins on the motor connector from a working 7200.10 single platter drive. If you have much less than this, you probably have a problem.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but in the first pic the motor IC looks OK, and in the 2nd it's burnt.

You have more than just a PCB problem my friend.

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Too many cooks spoil the broth. Definitely and likely experimenting has lead to a complete KO circuit and maybe a KO preamp. But there is no money. Dead end or better : game over.

Looks like the TVS did its job .. Do you have an oscilloscope ?
If not, just check the Voltage on the Yellow/Black and Red/Black from power connector

I would expect approx 12v and 5v respectively. If these are ok, or you do have a scope, what does the trace look like for the same ? Is there a big leading edge on the trace?

<itch>

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TVS protects against external problems like transient, reverse current, reverse ripple, and AC leakage. A motor short would have fried the motor IC and left the TVS unharmed.

BlackST: If he doesn't want to spend the money to send it out, he's not going to. If he's going to break it tinkering with it himself, then he's going to break it. A few pointers won't hurt you, just don't read them if you don't want to know which top secret basic troubleshooting steps we are all giving away. Better have some guidance so just maybe it will work than have him stick it in a toilet or something because a tech column in a magazine suggested that it helps in 3% of cases. (Blatant poke at idiotic freezer suggestions that appear here and there in magazines and blogs.)

Was this drive hot-plugged? I only ask because some cheap power supplies aren't very graceful with their voltage regulation, and will do strange things, such as dip+spike or similar nasty stuff if you plug a high load into the +12V side (the TVS you burned is on the 12V side I believe) after the thing is running. Don't forget, a drive has a 2.5 amp or so starting draw on the 12V side for a couple seconds while the motor accelerates.