hi guys in semi response to my last thread of tears and joy,

external-harddrive-repair-t13795.html

i have a verbatim 1TB external drive which was accidentally plugged into a 19v power supply. because of this it no longer powers up. i fixed the same problem with my last external drive (see above) but it was made easy because of the obvious tvs chip that had popped. I cant see anything out of the ordinary on this hdd board (1TB one) indeed i cant seem to locate a tvs chip anywhere. do sata boards have one..? as this ex drive has two circuit boards, i presume that the small one is the usb to sata controller. is it possible that it is this smaller board that has become burned out..? as its first in the line of fire.. what makes it slightly awkward is that i do not have access to a sata controlled motherboard....bummer. i gave it to a friend of mine who said he put the drive in his 'cradle' at work and nothing happened. do you have to remove the usb to sata board before you do this.? is it possible that a replacement small board will be successful or should i just get a replacement main board.???? anyone....? thanks alot in advance hope everyone had a groovy christmas...

heres some pics and spec..

1.0tb
sata / 8mb cache
wd10eavs
s/n wcau43913866
mdl : wd10eavs - 00d7b1
wwn:50014ee202265ab0
date:25 oct 08
dcm:darnnt2cfb
lba:1953525168
product of thailand

ooo apparently its a wd caviar "green"...hmm ???

circuit boards
small one
4d714e77
main board
2061-701590-a0005p xc 7c125e5g r 0006170 9176

The small PCB is the USB-SATA bridge board. It should be OK. You need to remove the PCB from the hard drive. The TVS diodes will be near the power connector.

Does your board look like this one?

http://cd.beareyes.com.cn/2/lib/200809/ ... C_4914.jpg

very nearly, heres a pic of mine. sorry about quality.

i can see the two tvs you mention r64 and r67 would the same remedies/tests still apply..?

also there is a fair bit of brown staining around the screw holes and on the board to hd contact strip. is this normal. ?

thanks

hi,
you should send it to DR pro if you can't handle it.

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data recovery service[/b]

cheers for advice, i know this and your right, however i am a, skint. b, fairly capable of small soldering jobs.

(R)64 and (R)67 are (R)esistors.

(D)4 and (D)3 are the TVS (D)iodes.

The (D)iodes are made easier to identify by the diode symbol, |>|.

(D)4 appears to be the 12V TVS (D)iode.

(R)64 appears to be a zero-ohm link. This link may fuse when the (D)iode fails.

If you can use a multimeter, measure the resistances of the Rs and Ds on the 200 ohm scale.

If the D reads 0, then remove it.

If the R reads open (overrange), then bridge it with a wire or 2 amp picofuse.

As for the discolouration, use a soft white pencil eraser to carefully clean the oxide off the pads.

Is it me or are Western Digitals the worst when it comes to oxidation? Thinking back, I can't remember seeing one that wasn't badly oxidized.

WOW thanks a load fzabkar. i shall do this. funny enough i'm actually really looking forward to this...i like fixing things !!!

ill post all results and pics.

are western dig the hardest/most problematic hd's to work on/ remedy.. or are they all the same..??

simon

hi i've checked the resistance of the two diodes and low and behold d4 read 0. i removed it carefully. i measured the other diode d3 and it showed a small resistance 35ohms. the two small 0 ohm links were exactly that and fine. i measured the voltage drop across d3 and it was .427v so i reckon that it is fine.
with everything back in place i tried powering up. NOTHING. i removed the usb to sata board and tried that on its own and the green on light didn't come on. I'm thinking there may be something up with this board.. does anyone know how to check this board for problems.. ? any advice...?

there is also a diode on this board d3. indicated in the picture. is it possible that this should be removed aswell..?

im also going to have try the hd in a sata tower...but i dont have one..

For now i retire to my chair and reach for a chocolate biscuit.....

oh i also saw this which mentions the part number and code for the usb controller and also it relates to the same external hd... anyone speak really good french...????

http://www.commentcamarche.net/forum/af ... atim-47510

You need to get a SATA hookup of some sort, otherwise you're still shooting in the dark

_________________
You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

Don't remove D3 on the bridge board. Unfortunately not every problem can be fixed with a simple diode-ectomy. :-(

Otherwise, enjoy your biscuit. You've done well so far. :-)

In the absence of a SATA motherboard, there are still some things you can do.

(1) Confirm that your adapter is producing 12VDC, with no load connected.

(2) Confirm that there is no short present at the DC socket on the bridge board.

(3) With the adapter plugged in, and HD disconnected, confirm that 12V is present at the DC socket.

(4) Check that +12V and +5V are present at the SATA connector.

Here are the pinouts:

http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

(5) Confirm that the resistance at the pads of D4 on the HD PCB is not 0.

(6) Repeat 3 & 4 with HD connected.

(7) Compare the polarities of your 12V and 19V adapters. If you have reversed the polarities, then there may be more damage than a straight overvoltage.

Just one more thought. Is it possible that your drive powers up in standby (PUIS), in which case the USB-SATA bridge chip may need to see a USB host before it commands the drive to spin up?

Dude......you are a legend.! I'll check all of this later. It all makes huge sense.

hi, so here's the results..

(1) Confirm that your adapter is producing 12VDC, with no load connected.
confirmed

(2) Confirm that there is no short present at the DC socket on the bridge board.
confirmed

(3) With the adapter plugged in, and HD disconnected, confirm that 12V is present at the DC socket.
confirmed

(4) Check that +12V and +5V are present at the SATA connector.

Here are the pinouts:

http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

i can confirm all three 12v pins have 12v to them. however there is nothing on the 3.3v and 5v pins..[color=#4000FF]

(5) Confirm that the resistance at the pads of D4 on the HD PCB is not 0.
[color=#4000FF]i can confirm the resistance is not 0, it is 40ohms, as a test the res across d3 is 35ohms

(6) Repeat 3 & 4 with HD connected.

i can confirm the dc socket and all three 12v pins have 12v to them. however there is still nothing on the 3.3v and 5v pins..[color=#4000FF]

(7) Compare the polarities of your 12V and 19V adapters. If you have reversed the polarities, then there may be more damage than a straight overvoltage.

[color=#4000FF]i have compared the two and the both have the same polarities.

so i'm guessing this means there's something wrong with the usb sata bridge..????

i am in desperate need now of some storage and so i'm getting another ext hd. would it be wise now to get another one of these drives. its a verbatim 1tb ext. are they any good..? and would it mean that i could try out the usb bridge from this unit to fire up the other one...?????? is this usb bridge available to buy separately and would it be plug and play...?????

thanks again..

simon

AFAIK, the 3.3V supply is currently not used by any HD manufacturer.

I suspect that the bridge chip switches 5V and 12V power to the HD only when it is connected to a computer's USB port. Did you measure the two voltages after connecting the USB cable to your PC?

The presence of 12V and absence of 5V would suggest that the 12V switching device (eg transistor or IC) is shorted, possibly as a consequence of the short circuit current that flowed when the TVS diode failed. I can't tell from your photos, but I suspect that U5 may be a dual high-side power switch.

You can interrogate the USB-SATA bridge chip with Microsoft's UVCView utility:

http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/USB_ID ... ew.x86.exe

Do this with the AC adapter disconnected. Then repeat it with the adapter connected. This will tell you whether the bridge is working, and whether it is powered from the USB port or from the adapter. Be aware that this test may be inconclusive, as some bridges won't identify themselves unless they detect a HD.

The circuitry near the USB and DC power sockets comprises a switchmode power supply that converts the incoming 12V to 5V. If you carefully measure the voltages of each of the 4 electrolytic capacitors on the underside of the PCB, this will tell you whether the 5V supply is functioning. Be careful, though, as a slip with the probes may do more damage.

hi fzabkar, did the voltage check with the board plugged into the usb and got nothing.

i tried out the adapter with the usb plugged in and the device viewer running and it didn't detect anything.

i tried the caps and one of them showed 12v the other three had nothing.

i checked the device viewer worked with my phone and it showed up (as a control).

so i guess that this shows that u5 is short circuited..? i've posted a pic.

can it be fixed/swapped..?

can i send it to a team to do as i'm not confident about a chip removal..?
(also i don't have a heat gun just a micro iron which i don't reckon will be worth the try)

how much would something like this cost to do..?

OR will the board from my new external h/d work as a donor..?

cheers mate.

simon

If you shop around you could probably get this fully recovered for £100 - £200 if it's only a pcb fault.

anyone here give a quote..?

Try Sean at PCImage... his forum name here is "pcimage"

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You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

yeah i think he pm'd me earlier cheers. seems like good guy..???? how do you tell..?????